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Messages - TTA1326
1
« on: February 03 2017, 02:40:18 PM »
damn, did Earl adopt you? 
No, but I stole his avatar YEARS ago. I'm just not brave enough to use it anywhere lol...
2
« on: February 03 2017, 01:46:52 PM »
I not quite deaf enuf yet to put up with her
Can't talk with a full mouth...
3
« on: January 30 2017, 03:24:28 PM »
I would like to get one sir. I need it yesterday according to the wife, but the car has been sitting for 3 years, so I'm really not in a hurry lol. I sent you a PM to find out how to pay you...
4
« on: July 18 2016, 01:36:44 PM »
Still looking for OEM 25536702 or 25527515 heads...
5
« on: July 17 2016, 09:59:12 PM »
Looking for almost anything in heads at this point. OEM or 25527515 castings. Stock or ported. And of course a rear Turbo decal...
6
« on: July 12 2016, 02:26:11 PM »
It's not blowing oil (from the oil pan anyway). It's just an untouched 93K short block. It's never been unbolted from the frame. Now, leaking oil all over the damn place from the 4 valve cover breathers, that's a different story. I know how to handle the rubber gaskets (and even cork), but I still hate them lol! Can't help it.
I'll be doing exactly as you said if I can't find a 3800 style gasket that will work with no problems. I called Magnum Gaskets tech support because the link I posted says it's for NA 3.8Ls, no turbos. The tech could not tell me why, but it supposedly checking with the engineering department and will email me an answer at some point.
7
« on: July 12 2016, 12:32:52 PM »
8
« on: July 12 2016, 12:24:02 PM »
Anybody running the Cometic aramid fiber oil pan gasket? I hate cork. I hate flat rubber. I wish I could get a 3800 style gasket for this car...
9
« on: July 11 2016, 01:39:07 PM »
I've read this as interpreted by many different people, and I've read the original service manual version, but here's the basics from DennisL (Not me) posted on the "old board" 4 years ago. This isn't your chip, but it's exactly how the ECM and IAC work. I had a new '88 L98 IROC back when I was learning the ways of the Buick Turbo V6 from the wrong side lol (meaning I didn't have one), and the L98 had an idle surge after I ported the heads and put a cam in it. Took me and several others 6 months to guesstimate the car might have a coolant temp sensor reading on the high side. Comparing a coolant thermometer to the Tech 1 readings and the in car "gauge" from cold start to warmed up led to that guess. Changed it out and fixed the problem.
I'm not suggesting that's what your problem is, just that it's hard to figure out without knowing the car and conditions and having the scan tool in hand. Have you done the IAC\TPS reset lately? When it's surging, have you tried turning it off, waiting 30 seconds or so, and starting it back up?
This might be a good place to describe exactly what the ecm does for IAC control on start up.
First the basics: the IAC stepper motor is moved by "counts" with 00 being closed (no air) and 255 full open (max air).
When you shut the engine off, the IAC is "parked" at a programmed position (stock is 150, TT is 140). This is also the initial position on the next engine start. As soon as the engine is running, the ecm picks an IAC position based on coolant temp. It holds to this position for almost 1 sec. After that, the ecm selects a target rpm based on coolant temp. It then moves the IAC in/out to maintain this rpm. This normally requires a lower count or step position but the actual number is determined by the programmed rpm value.
An example of real numbers for a TT 5.6/5.7 chip at a coolant temp. of 68 degF:
- engine cranks [IAC = 140]
- engine starts [IAC = 108]
- 800 mSec later, target idle rpm is 1200 so IAC will be stepped down to about 70-90.
- IAC position from here is determined by actual rpm. If its close to the target rpm, no change. If actual is above the target rpm, the IAC position is reduced. If rpm drops below the target, the IAC is stepped out (goes to a higher count).
- As the coolant temperature increases, the target rpm goes down but the IAC control functions the same.
So, the only time you should see a high count (100 & up) is when the engine is started. Within a few seconds the count should drop to ~60-90.
After a minute or two, the count should be down to ~30-60.
Finally at warm idle, it should be ~10-30.
10
« on: July 10 2016, 09:10:07 PM »
I don't know, but I think I have a lot of oil coming from the 4 stupid breathers on the valve covers. These valve covers rarely leak between the cover and the head (if you check the nuts every now and then, which I do at just about every oil change) and the gasket were replaced shortly before it was parked. I could put oil caps on them, but I think I'll just have the side holes welded up and drop down to 2 breathers. I might be able to get baffles welded in as well. Notice the dry and clean front injector plug (if you zoom in). The injector looks the same while the back two are soaked. The drivers side is similar. Also notice the oil is on the front of the plug wire covers and trans dipstick (I had a whole roll of the plug wire cover left from doing my 461 BBC, so what the heck). There is no oil on the sides or back.  The top of the engine is nasty, the bottom is nasty around the oil pan, but it's clean on both sides in the middle and on the front cover in the middle. The top of the front cover is nasty down to about the middle line of the water pump and then it's as clean as the side of the block you see here. The starter heat shield is one of the only place I see run off.  The oil pan is a disaster all the way around, except right over the top of the K member. The back of the block, crank, flywheel, torque converter, and inside of the trans housing are all clean. Inside the "dust pan" is different.  The mini starter is clean.  I'm leaning toward yanking it out and fixing it all at once unless somebody talks me out of it! Is aluminum oxidation a problem in the turbo? I wiped out the inlet bell, but I would have to have a local turbo shop clean out the rest ( http://www.workturbochargers.com ). That's my finger print on the right side and the white powder I wiped out is below the bell on the radiator hose. There's a lot of it. 
11
« on: July 10 2016, 03:00:00 PM »
I pulled the dipstick several times for at least some indication of what the oil looks like, and while it's turning black, it still has a translucent yellow when I rolled the dipstick around under a light. It's only a third of a quart low too. So the oil leak must be while the engine is running\hot.
I got a bit of a look under the car. It's hard to jack it up very much against a block wall on the passenger side. The trans? cooler lines hanging under the front edge of the intercooler are a mess. (I know it's been sitting a long time, but...). The oil in the floor looks like it might have run down the back of the intercooler, but I wiped a rag over that and it was fairly dry and clean. The front cover, balancer, and front seal appear dry.
The oil pan has semi dried streaks around the front center bolt and along both sides of the sump that go down and back. The K member crossover has stains that are square to the oil pan edges, front to back, side to side, and top to bottom. The torque converter cover still has enough oil soak that it has a drop hanging down out of the drain hole. I'm going to get the car up higher and pull that cover for a better look.
I took the plugs out and put a socket on the alternator nut. The belt is stretched and loose, but there was no resistance at all while I made about 4 full turns on the engine. No noises, no hard spots. It spins freely and easily. The only thing I could hear was air being pushed out at TDC.
12
« on: July 09 2016, 06:44:41 PM »
A friend of mine (who's not on the internet that I know of) says this is very common on TTAs. He claims to have seen lower mileage cars than mine come out of storage with no signs of battery acid leakage (and stock with no Alky), but with this exact connector eaten up. So, I don't know. Maybe it was already hot on the bottom and the acid just needed 3 years of no "fairly regular" driving (including rain) to eat the connector? I guess I will be ordering both ends from Casper's and just moving on next weekend.
13
« on: July 09 2016, 04:43:29 PM »
As far as I know IAC count just represents how far the pintle (tip) is from the bore (seat). Smaller numbers are closer to closed (lower air bypass), larger just means how far open it is (more air bypass). The IAC is used to control idle RPM at closed throttle, the number isn't calculated from RPM. The ECM changes the pintle position (IAC count) to adjust the RPM via the bypass gap. Right? http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/Scantool_Readings.htm
14
« on: July 09 2016, 04:05:00 PM »
The Alky filter is clean...  
15
« on: July 09 2016, 03:54:38 PM »
Well, I should have expected surprises right off the bat I guess, but not this. The engine is as clean as it ever has been (which is to say it's not filthy and it's not spotless)...  The battery is also clean, completely full in all cells, and no signs of damage. This was after I took it out and it was hooked up for the last 3 years. Like I said, my wife's health problems came on suddenly and I never once thought the car would sit this long.  However, I first noticed the vent cap was gone from the washer bottle tank (Alky control and denatured). I could not find the cap until I removed the battery and found it behind the head lights. Then I spot this right off...  Notice how filthy the frame rail is, the deposits down in the wiring loom, and off course this connector. The thumb "latch" or whatever is gone. It's looks like it's been eaten. I guess battery acid could do this, but there's no sign of it This car isn't that dirty. Then I turn it over...  No THAT, looks melted. I was laying right on the frame rail in the light spot at the top. Look at the top side too. Ideas? Did the Alky tank pop the top? I think the filter was clean, but I'm going back to look. Did I have a flash under the hood? Glad I still have my house. Oh, the oil issue. Look at the top picture again. I have had a light covering of oil and dirt, dust, or whatever on the top of the engine forever. I'm sure it's because I have the 4 breather cap hack on the stock valve covers. It's nasty, but it's looked like this for years. However, what's new is oil on the front side of the (brand new a month or two before I parked it) plug wires and covers, primarily on the passenger side. It's also on the front edge of the trans dipstick and the rear 2 injectors on the passenger side. Front injector and the drivers side injectors are clean. There is also a 10" or so round oil slick right under the intercooler fan. I have a drip pan under the oil pan, but it was nasty before I parked the car. The oil in front of that pan is new. It looks to far forward to be the front seal. Running down the intercooler mount? I'm going to head over to my dads and snatch my floor jack back. I forgot he had it, but I want to jack it up right where it is and have a look before I move the car.
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