Passenger side valve cover replacement

[kjhansen]

OK, so I started the procedure using instructions that include removing the heater hoses from the heater core and the intake manifold.  There are a couple of bolts that hold it to the intake manifold.  This creates room next to the valve cover so you can roll it out towards the intake manifold.  But it's easier said than done. Both heater hoses that came from the heater core and attach to the metal tubes that run next to the manifold were stuck to the heater core tubes.  Took forever to remove them--the rubber seemed melted to the tubing.  The first bolt holding the tubes to the manifold came out easy.  The second one is a 1" black nut that runs the bottom metal tube into the water pump(?).  See the picture.  That nut does NOT want to move.  I have a fairly long 1" open end wrench I put on it and the nut won't budge.  I tapped the wrench with a sledgehammer and it appears to be just rounding the edges of the nut, so I quit.  Is there a trick to this?  Is it reverse thread or something? 
Keith

[kjhansen]

Here's a picture pointing out the nut.

[nocooler]

That fitting can be a bear. Make sure you are holding the bottom pipe fitting while trying to break it loose. Good news is it looks like there are replacements - https://www.jegs.com/i/RESTOPARTS/759/GN10095/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQiA15yNBhDTARIsAGnwe0Wzfy3sAt6oWDQkJo2h46sE0DJiESo7BjT9AhxD0vOBZLS3vLGT3PkaAjulEALw_wcB 

[Scoobum]

Jeremy is correct. Those things can be a fukn nitemare. WD 40 it and give it 12 hours. Try again.

[Steve Wood]

probably take a rust buster to spray on it.  If you have a good quality "line wrench" that might help prevent the rounding off.  Might take your propane torch and heat that fitting as well.  They can be a bear.  Probably due a replacement set of lines after all these years as well.

[gnonyx]

I already got another replacement since trying to take the flare nut off, even with penetrating oil, soaking it and it kinked the rounded part of the pipe. I finally removed the pipe place the flare nut on a vise and really used a wrench to removed the flare nut from the male fitting.
This weekend I will receive the rest of the Melling rocker arm retainers, color black not white.

[gnonyx]

That fitting can be a bear. Make sure you are holding the bottom pipe fitting while trying to break it loose. Good news is it looks like there are replacements - https://www.jegs.com/i/RESTOPARTS/759/GN10095/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQiA15yNBhDTARIsAGnwe0Wzfy3sAt6oWDQkJo2h46sE0DJiESo7BjT9AhxD0vOBZLS3vLGT3PkaAjulEALw_wcB

I did notice JPEGs replacement part is without heater to Throttle but Highway Stars has them with and the cost of $64.95
https://www.highwaystars.net/heater-inlet-outlet-pipe-assembly-replaces-gm-25525280/

[kjhansen]

Thanks.  My regal doesn't have inputs to the throttle body (not the stock throttle body) from the heater, so the two little nipples there are just connected to each other, so it doesn't matter which set I get.  The Highway Stars unit looks better and costs less, but they don't seem to have any in stock.  I've emailed them to find out. 
I'm going to order the new ones in any case because I'll probably end up destroying the old ones getting them off.
 

[kjhansen]

They've updated their stock, so I can order it.  Going to try to remove the old one without damage first.  Gotta try at least.

[phil_long]

Keep us posted

[kjhansen]

I removed the flare nut that held heater tubes to the water pump.  It really didn't want to come off and I was just rounding the edges using my 1" open end wrench, so I cut the tube just in front of the nut with my Dremel tool and a cutting wheel and removed the tubes.  This wasn't quite as easy as it sounds.  I had to cut off one of the little tubes attached to the bigger tube, and also remove the engine lift hook bolted just to manifold just to the right of the flare nut.  I don't remember my last Regal having the engine lift hook there.  Makes me wonder if this is the original engine... hmmm.  Then I put a 1" socket and a breaker bar on the nut and it came right off.  I had already ordered and received the new heater tubes.  Almost ready to remove the valve cover and replace the gasket, which is the whole point of this exercise.  Just have to remove the heat shield from the HVAC unit.  All this is an unheated barn in Missouri in December.  Although it's a pretty unusual December....

[~JM~]

I was able to remove valve cover & head without removing the heat shield. I did end up leaving tool marks on the heat shield though, so perhaps I should have removed it first.

EDIT: Cover the rear of heat shield with blue masking tape. The ratchet I used rubbed the paint off.

[Steve Wood]

You may find that heat shield a much bigger job.  Emphasis on "Much Bigger" LOL

I have tall valve covers on my GN.  After looking at the work required, I decided I would rather struggle with the back lower bolt once in awhile than mess with the shield.

[kjhansen]

Well, I decided to struggle with the back bolt.  I couldn't get the heat shield off.  There's a screw holding the bottom of it to the plastic, and that screw is invisible from under the hood.  I managed to get the little 3/16" hex head wrench (it's only about 3/4" long with a 1/4" base) into the bolt by using a McDonalds straw.  The base of the little wrench fit right into the straw.  I pushed it down until it touched the bolt, then reached in there with a long screwdriver and pushed it into the hole on the top of the bolt. Then pressing against the little 3/16" wrench head with the screwdriver to hold it in place, I slid the straw right off.  Then I tightened it with a 1/4" open end wrench.  I have pretty thin hands and arms, so I was able to get down in there.
 NEXT TIME, if there is a next time, I'm going to epoxy the little wrench into the bolt and just leave it there.  In any case, I got it all back together and it doesn't leak any more. Whew. That was a lot of work.

However, the heater doesn't blow hot air either.  It must have a bubble of air trapped in the heater core, or else the vacuum operated valve isn't working.  Ah well, more diagnostics.

I also followed your advice, Steve, and snipped the wires to the TPS TEC.  Big mistake.  The TPS itself quit working altogether.  Apparently, the circuit carrying TPS voltage goes through the TEC and then back to the computer somehow.  I stripped and twisted and taped the TEC back in, and the TPS reads again (and it was already set to the correct voltage) but before I solder and shrink wrap, I would like to know if that's my only option.  Obviously simply snipping the wires to the TEC doesn't work.
 And no, I didn't snip the wires to the computer from the TPS.
Keith

[Steve Wood]

See Jeremy's and my comments in your thread on the subject.  If one is not plugged into the other as they originally were meant to be installed, then I would buy a new tps connector and install it on the end of the factory wires and connect it as per the original factory