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Messages - wmsonta
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91
« on: July 17 2019, 08:52:05 PM »
After waiting 5 wks on an appointment with the supposed best detail man there is, he jerked me around. Wanted me to make another appointment. I do not give money to anybody who jerks me around. I am going to detail the gn myself. I hate detailing, always have. So, even though I was around a lot of it, I paid little attention and learned less.
This thread may be a bit hasty for a number of reasons. I am old. UPS brought my headliner today. I do a small workout 5 days a week. I get hauled to the races almost every weekend. I prefer to do most work on a slab in front of a building that is 15 ft to the rafters and only shaded in the pm.
What I need-Mckees 37 waterless wash to go (I believe the same as Detailer's or Dealer's? Pride)
sandwich baggies
painter s tape
Q tips
XMT Speed Clay and XMT speed clay Lube
loop weave or heavy pile micro-fiber towels
Meguiar's #7
Meguiar's #26 wax or equivalent.
I think my best bet is to find a supplier who has the most of these and try to combine shipping.
I consider a single stage lacquer to be the thinnest oem paint job. I believe the primer and paint combined to be less than half as thick as just the clear coat on modern stuff. There will be no abrasives. I own top of the line buffers and polishers, DA's, everything you could ask. I do not trust myself to use them on this no tint added black car. I intend, all by hand. Tape off one panel at a time.
If you have opinions, advice, a favorite supplier, experiences, etc., now is the time to get in here.
92
« on: July 17 2019, 05:43:32 PM »
"Wmsonto you got some good reading on bracket racing I’ll read it"
Tim-Get the knock issue fixed. Then, if you like, I can suggest a way to compare any two changes with no math involved. Apples to apples. The way you race now vs foot brake. 2 step vs no 2 step. Engine tune. Etc.
"She brings the boost to 3#s then bumps in and the race is on."
Grumpy-Yeah, foot brake is all about finding a leave that is easy to hold and easily repeatable. Let the converter do the work.
" My suggestion to launch off the brake at lower boost was primarily aimed at seeing what effect,"
Steve Woods!-I understood that and agree. I think everybody should try foot brake first.
"This thread has potential
.............. .............. .. And there must be lots of 11 second cars."
Tim-There are currently 540 views.I would say there are a number of 11 sec cars at the track. Damn few legit 11 sec street cars.
"Digression, here."
Steve- Yup, I lived though it. If I can post this picture-it will be of the most hardcore street racer I help. His pickup goes 11.85 at the track and probably 12.0 on the street. He refuses to compromise any more street-ability. I do not believe he has ever lost on the street in KC. He lost in the picture. The other car used to be a NHRA record holder Super Stock slant six.
93
« on: July 16 2019, 10:58:06 PM »
Grumpy, not my place to answer, but. I think they are working on knock. It was suggested to flash stall. I was responding to that. I do not go far enough back and get off track sometimes.
That and AFAIK, Tim has been racing half his life and could teach me. It is the Internets.
94
« on: July 16 2019, 03:41:43 PM »
Tim, I have no idea how much experience you have drag racing. When track tuning to a time slip, rollout can easily change the ET by 0.15 sec. If you rely on the time slip to determine yea/nay to anything you have to leave the same. Most (myself included) can not do this reliably. If you would like, I can explain how to take the driver out of the equation. As much as possible.
Also, if you are going to foot brake/flash stall, you cannot leave while pushing forward. You have to hold the car w/the brakes. Not all cars can foot brake successfully.
95
« on: July 15 2019, 07:54:23 AM »
looking for my false KR today.
Bye all means. Here is where I defer to people who have experience w/turbo Buicks. I nave none. I fear it enough, I installed an audible alarm in a completely original gn. I do have some experience with both kinds of O2 sensors. Narrow and wideband. They are used to tune carb's. Most applications are exclusively race gas. In my world, if you wonder about the output, you change the sensor first. This should not be taken as advise. There are people here who were dealing with these issues over 10 yrs ago. Good luck.
96
« on: July 14 2019, 08:28:16 PM »
So..
4700 stall @ 22# boost,
prob 3300 stall @ 15#.
I would guess it does really well @ light throttle/no or little boost on the street. Probably moves the car right along @ 2000-2500 rpm.
I have to admit, I am curious where you go from here. I think the smart money is on trying to go a little faster.
97
« on: July 14 2019, 09:59:46 AM »
I see what you are pointing out. However, is that the converter? If so, will the next one be better or worse?
I know a guy a few years ago, who bought 5 nitrous converters just to get 3500 rpm stall. A number of racers tried to tell him, stall is not a finite quality. More money in converters than the rest of his car. He did not seem to mind and I certainly did not. For those that do not know me, this is not a criticism.
98
« on: July 14 2019, 09:39:07 AM »
I will respond. First, I do not tell anybody what they should do/buy. I deal with a number of people/cars. I am well aware of who puts the sweat, time, effort, skinned knuckles and money in these cars. So the flat spot is good? The flat spot is a consequence of stall converters. If yours is a LU and was locked before that rpm, there would be no flat spot. I have guys who data log, foot brake and flash stall a 5800 converter from about 2000 rpm. They do not need to circle the flat spot. I’ve been try to get the cars time slip to be like the Wallace slip, it’s close. Wallace is physics and math. It saves me from doing it myself. Wallace should be taken as what is possible in a perfect world. Power adder cars will mph high for the ET and turbo Buick's are not perfect race cars. Street/strip cars are not as efficient as dedicated race cars. As I have said, I like where you are for what you have. Just my opinion. Wheel spin is hard to control some times,hopping the new MT PBR will help. G-body rr suspension has been beat to death. Just as there are economic 'black swans', there will always be that one guy who went 1.xx with x,y or z. Most never get in the 1.6x. Let alone making clean runs.Decide how important street is vs going a few hundredths quicker 60's. If you can not stand the car blowing the tires away whenever it wants, alter the suspension. Know for the converter I’m pulling it out to possibly make it stall a little higher to help the short time and tighten up the top ( got 10% slip through the traps).I’m open for help here.
Things to think about.The stall is pretty high now. About 5000. Higher stall typically will exhibit higher slippage. You are having some amount of problems holding the tires now.
99
« on: July 13 2019, 10:38:02 AM »
Ok, here goes.
The flat spot. I am used to see slightly different versions of a flat spot in data logs. Tim, you will be really unhappy if the flat spot goes away. It is the converter going from high torque multiplication ( if LU, probably 2.0+) to its highest efficiency (0.92-0.96, probably). Commonly called stall. You can also see the flat spot after the shifts. The rpm goes low enough to get back into multiplication . With turbo/heavy nitrous cars the stall changes with engine torque.
I worked with a 3800# bbc Camaro. The owner used a brake and releasing the brake activated the nitrous. The stall w/o NO was 3500, with nitrous the stall was 5500. The car was 1.29-1.31 short.
I did not see a rpm flare on the shift. Something I have seen several times. I have never seen one where I wondered about it. If it is logged.
I HTH.
edit-I like the converter.
100
« on: July 12 2019, 06:23:06 PM »
Tim, I like your converter. What diameter? LU? Built locally?
101
« on: July 12 2019, 11:33:10 AM »
those donk lift kits does to the cg/ic
Are you referring to 'no hop' bars? If so, I will have your answers. Do they raise the upper rear mounting?
102
« on: July 12 2019, 10:40:46 AM »
90/10 shocks.
I have not seen an actual 90/10 shock since the early '70's. They were replaced with 3 way adjustable frt shocks by about '75. I still own a pair. From memory 60/40, 80/20 and 90/10.
104
« on: July 09 2019, 08:22:21 PM »
You boiled it down pretty well, Texas.
A rear end tries to rotate itself two ways. It tries to flip over backwards and the passenger side tries to flip laterally. Once attached to the body, the rear end will push the body toward the instant center using rotational force. Even leaf spring cars. The most efficient direction for oem is straight forward.
A good example of lateral rotation is top fuel. You cannot get the rear tires close enough.
I need to so more seen and less heard from.
105
« on: July 09 2019, 07:41:50 PM »
My original question was if there was a reason that so many try to maintain the lower bar parallel to the ground while doing the bulk of the adjustment with the upper bar. The vast majority of cars w/4 link, ladder bars, torque arm all stay parallel with the body. Most need a shorter IC and nothing more. 4 links came about for 4 spd cars w/rpm and no real torque curve. I had one in '72. I have seen a number of really short, really high instant center 4 spd cars. A 4 link will react quicker than almost anything else. One note, you do have experience with a sway bar on a four link assuming you still have one on your Buick.  I do. One of the problems with the triangulated four link used by the factory is the short upper arm which is primarily used for packaging purposes . Of course, the triangulated design allows the manufacturer to avoid a wishbone, or some other design that keeps the axle from shifting sideways. The lack of mounting holes which remove the possibility of "tuning" the IC without some modifications is a pain in the neck. I suspect many don't understand it is a four link for this reason. They have a number of advantages for street cars. ]I had a file of IC locations compiled from various buicks that I had played with over the years that I plotted with the Performance Trends software. I apparently lost it on some hard drive I replaced as it has been missing in action since I was running Vista on some machine. Dumb is as dumb does
On cars with no adjustments, spring ride heights and tire size throw IC location around quite a bit. I have seen it ten ft in front of a car, but, I suspect your estimate of 1.5' in front of the bumper is pretty good on average.
I notice that you seem to think that certain short times are good for a G body, while others seem to think they are slow. I suspect the difference is what role power plays. One can take a 400 hp Buick and get a 1.6 short time, but give it 700 hp and it may pull a 1.49 or so. It takes power to accelerate the brick. I think you understand that perfectly. With Tim's car, the numbers match. ET, mph and 60' all match. IMO, the proof of that, when it got slightly quicker et the mph dropped slightly. He is using nearly all the power he makes. Quicker 60's will take more power. I would guess he is about the easy limit of his rear suspension. Grumpy's daughter is trying to push her stock block, basically stock bodied car into the EIGHTS spraying alcohol. She is running a 200 R4 and a stock 8.5 GM rear axle. Now we all know that a stock block cannot make 1200 hp and that a 200 R4 and a stock 8.5 rear axle cannot run 8's, don't we? OMG. Hard for me to fathom. What kind of rear suspension? There are several others knocking on the door as well. She drives her car on the street when she feels like it. This hobby is not nearly as cut and dried as many would have us believe.[size=78%] 
[/size] Yeah, evidently if is not as cut and dried as I believed. Look, you have a good grip on this. Anything normal or reasonable will push straight ahead. Abnormal, unreasonable will not run 4 link.
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