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Messages - wmsonta
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91
« on: July 21 2019, 09:56:27 PM »
Wmsonta, the consensus of opinion today is that most main seal leaks are not around the seal, but more likely, and in greater volume, at the parting lines of the cap with the block.
If I agree or not, it's not going to change what works/has worked for me. Last fall when I decided to sell everything, I owned 6 rope seal engines. A Vega, a Monza, a GN and 3 Caddy 500's. I did 3 rope main seal repairs before I was old enough to drive. All 3 had unacceptable results. Have not had a failure since. I am not going to put anything on the main cap mating surface. I can't get that surface clean enough to suit me. Use what works for you or what ever you want. Things are better now. The first repairs I attempted were rope for both the crankshaft and the 'H' (side) seals. By the early '70's mechanics used 6 cyl (single lip) crank seals/Felpro neoprene side seals, on all those Vega's parked everywhere. I do not see a problem.
92
« on: July 21 2019, 03:11:14 PM »
It won’t make the cap stand up off its mating surface and give extra bearing clearance like RTV.
Do people put sealants between the main cap and its register? I have done a number of rope main rear seals, but have not done that. Hell, I am reasonably sure, I never used silicone sealers. Not sure it existed.
93
« on: July 20 2019, 09:58:53 AM »
Thanks for the reply.
I also had a long time friend who said I should investigate Adam's Polishes. Turns out, he doesn't use them. He has been involved with high end show stuff for probably 40 yrs.
I have bought stuff I have used previously where I could. My order has shipped.
Trying to acclimate to this heat (107 index yesterday). When I opened the shop yesterday pm, it was probably 110*. I promptly stepped on the package containing the rear clips for my new headliner. Broke 2 of 3.
2 steps forward, 3 steps back.
94
« on: July 19 2019, 10:12:25 AM »
"I tried to do some research on "paint correction" ( what a yuppie phrase) in the spring.
Both cars have been neglected for a while. They are drivers and have had repaints so not in the same class as your cars."
If yours were repainted in the last 20 yrs, you are probably dealing with better quality paint.
"Seems everybody is an expert in detailing and they are all polarized fan boys, probably to sell the brands they tout."
I wish I knew more about it, today. A lot of the brands I knew anything about are long gone. I guarantee, I will be unable to tell if the paint is clean without the 'baggie test'.
"I finally ran across one youtuber who acknowledged the insanity, suggested simply use (after clay) griot complete compound from a chain store with a decent DA and an orange pad. Probably the way I will go."
Man, I would like to use a machine. If I value the result, experience has taught not to. I would in an instant if I was working with clearcoat. I watched a really young man erase a deep scratch in a few minutes. Deep enough to catch a fingernail. Probably 16 in long. Clear coat is usually that thick.
95
« on: July 18 2019, 07:48:28 PM »
almost like they don't want to work.
If he didn't want to do my car, he should have just said so. He was booked solid 5 wks ahead. I can understand, he can make easier money than an original paint car that has been stored 23 yrs. Anyway, I bought supplies from Auto Geek today. I hit some kind of lottery and got 25% off + free shipping. Detailer's Pride is gone, the same product sold by the same man is McKee's waterless wash. XMT Speed Clay is gone and I bought the product that replaced it. I bought a 6 pk of Cobra 600 Jr micro fiber towels. Not shaded enough time where I want to do this. Some will have to be done inside the shop.
96
« on: July 17 2019, 08:52:05 PM »
After waiting 5 wks on an appointment with the supposed best detail man there is, he jerked me around. Wanted me to make another appointment. I do not give money to anybody who jerks me around. I am going to detail the gn myself. I hate detailing, always have. So, even though I was around a lot of it, I paid little attention and learned less.
This thread may be a bit hasty for a number of reasons. I am old. UPS brought my headliner today. I do a small workout 5 days a week. I get hauled to the races almost every weekend. I prefer to do most work on a slab in front of a building that is 15 ft to the rafters and only shaded in the pm.
What I need-Mckees 37 waterless wash to go (I believe the same as Detailer's or Dealer's? Pride)
sandwich baggies
painter s tape
Q tips
XMT Speed Clay and XMT speed clay Lube
loop weave or heavy pile micro-fiber towels
Meguiar's #7
Meguiar's #26 wax or equivalent.
I think my best bet is to find a supplier who has the most of these and try to combine shipping.
I consider a single stage lacquer to be the thinnest oem paint job. I believe the primer and paint combined to be less than half as thick as just the clear coat on modern stuff. There will be no abrasives. I own top of the line buffers and polishers, DA's, everything you could ask. I do not trust myself to use them on this no tint added black car. I intend, all by hand. Tape off one panel at a time.
If you have opinions, advice, a favorite supplier, experiences, etc., now is the time to get in here.
97
« on: July 17 2019, 05:43:32 PM »
"Wmsonto you got some good reading on bracket racing I’ll read it"
Tim-Get the knock issue fixed. Then, if you like, I can suggest a way to compare any two changes with no math involved. Apples to apples. The way you race now vs foot brake. 2 step vs no 2 step. Engine tune. Etc.
"She brings the boost to 3#s then bumps in and the race is on."
Grumpy-Yeah, foot brake is all about finding a leave that is easy to hold and easily repeatable. Let the converter do the work.
" My suggestion to launch off the brake at lower boost was primarily aimed at seeing what effect,"
Steve Woods!-I understood that and agree. I think everybody should try foot brake first.
"This thread has potential
.............. .............. .. And there must be lots of 11 second cars."
Tim-There are currently 540 views.I would say there are a number of 11 sec cars at the track. Damn few legit 11 sec street cars.
"Digression, here."
Steve- Yup, I lived though it. If I can post this picture-it will be of the most hardcore street racer I help. His pickup goes 11.85 at the track and probably 12.0 on the street. He refuses to compromise any more street-ability. I do not believe he has ever lost on the street in KC. He lost in the picture. The other car used to be a NHRA record holder Super Stock slant six.
98
« on: July 16 2019, 10:58:06 PM »
Grumpy, not my place to answer, but. I think they are working on knock. It was suggested to flash stall. I was responding to that. I do not go far enough back and get off track sometimes.
That and AFAIK, Tim has been racing half his life and could teach me. It is the Internets.
99
« on: July 16 2019, 03:41:43 PM »
Tim, I have no idea how much experience you have drag racing. When track tuning to a time slip, rollout can easily change the ET by 0.15 sec. If you rely on the time slip to determine yea/nay to anything you have to leave the same. Most (myself included) can not do this reliably. If you would like, I can explain how to take the driver out of the equation. As much as possible.
Also, if you are going to foot brake/flash stall, you cannot leave while pushing forward. You have to hold the car w/the brakes. Not all cars can foot brake successfully.
100
« on: July 15 2019, 07:54:23 AM »
looking for my false KR today.
Bye all means. Here is where I defer to people who have experience w/turbo Buicks. I nave none. I fear it enough, I installed an audible alarm in a completely original gn. I do have some experience with both kinds of O2 sensors. Narrow and wideband. They are used to tune carb's. Most applications are exclusively race gas. In my world, if you wonder about the output, you change the sensor first. This should not be taken as advise. There are people here who were dealing with these issues over 10 yrs ago. Good luck.
101
« on: July 14 2019, 08:28:16 PM »
So..
4700 stall @ 22# boost,
prob 3300 stall @ 15#.
I would guess it does really well @ light throttle/no or little boost on the street. Probably moves the car right along @ 2000-2500 rpm.
I have to admit, I am curious where you go from here. I think the smart money is on trying to go a little faster.
102
« on: July 14 2019, 09:59:46 AM »
I see what you are pointing out. However, is that the converter? If so, will the next one be better or worse?
I know a guy a few years ago, who bought 5 nitrous converters just to get 3500 rpm stall. A number of racers tried to tell him, stall is not a finite quality. More money in converters than the rest of his car. He did not seem to mind and I certainly did not. For those that do not know me, this is not a criticism.
103
« on: July 14 2019, 09:39:07 AM »
I will respond. First, I do not tell anybody what they should do/buy. I deal with a number of people/cars. I am well aware of who puts the sweat, time, effort, skinned knuckles and money in these cars. So the flat spot is good? The flat spot is a consequence of stall converters. If yours is a LU and was locked before that rpm, there would be no flat spot. I have guys who data log, foot brake and flash stall a 5800 converter from about 2000 rpm. They do not need to circle the flat spot. I’ve been try to get the cars time slip to be like the Wallace slip, it’s close. Wallace is physics and math. It saves me from doing it myself. Wallace should be taken as what is possible in a perfect world. Power adder cars will mph high for the ET and turbo Buick's are not perfect race cars. Street/strip cars are not as efficient as dedicated race cars. As I have said, I like where you are for what you have. Just my opinion. Wheel spin is hard to control some times,hopping the new MT PBR will help. G-body rr suspension has been beat to death. Just as there are economic 'black swans', there will always be that one guy who went 1.xx with x,y or z. Most never get in the 1.6x. Let alone making clean runs.Decide how important street is vs going a few hundredths quicker 60's. If you can not stand the car blowing the tires away whenever it wants, alter the suspension. Know for the converter I’m pulling it out to possibly make it stall a little higher to help the short time and tighten up the top ( got 10% slip through the traps).I’m open for help here.
Things to think about.The stall is pretty high now. About 5000. Higher stall typically will exhibit higher slippage. You are having some amount of problems holding the tires now.
104
« on: July 13 2019, 10:38:02 AM »
Ok, here goes.
The flat spot. I am used to see slightly different versions of a flat spot in data logs. Tim, you will be really unhappy if the flat spot goes away. It is the converter going from high torque multiplication ( if LU, probably 2.0+) to its highest efficiency (0.92-0.96, probably). Commonly called stall. You can also see the flat spot after the shifts. The rpm goes low enough to get back into multiplication . With turbo/heavy nitrous cars the stall changes with engine torque.
I worked with a 3800# bbc Camaro. The owner used a brake and releasing the brake activated the nitrous. The stall w/o NO was 3500, with nitrous the stall was 5500. The car was 1.29-1.31 short.
I did not see a rpm flare on the shift. Something I have seen several times. I have never seen one where I wondered about it. If it is logged.
I HTH.
edit-I like the converter.
105
« on: July 12 2019, 06:23:06 PM »
Tim, I like your converter. What diameter? LU? Built locally?
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