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Messages - bryes
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76
« on: September 17 2014, 08:20:06 PM »
Sounds like the starter to me as well, I've driven chevys before for months having to bang on the starter before they'd crank over. And that key pulling out thing is very common. I have a '79 RS that's in the middle of a frame off, and has been basically for the last couple of decades  It was my first car, so I have a major soft spot for second gen soft nose camaros, despite their um... limitations (160 hp 350??.. yikes).
77
« on: September 16 2014, 09:02:07 PM »
Sounds good super six, that's what I'm looking for. Let me ask you though, do you think a heli-coil will fix the damaged bolt hole?
Let me know how much you want for it, maybe we can work something out.
78
« on: September 15 2014, 08:54:21 PM »
You had me at Cheap  , I'm interested. Do you know the history of it, etc? I'll take a chance on the stall as long it's in good shape.
79
« on: September 13 2014, 09:11:27 PM »
Thanks!
I ordered that WB 340 from full throttle today, so hopefully I'll have it to install next Saturday. I'll try to save some money and reuse my sending unit, which works well, for now.
I think I'm in the market for a D5 torque converter. When I had the car out today I held the brakes and floored it and my motor stalls at 1400 rpm according to SM. When I get some time I'll try to remove the cover and see what the TC says.
80
« on: September 13 2014, 08:54:16 PM »
It took me about 8 hours and approximately 300 bucks to convert over to hydroboost. I got everything special order from Autozone except the T fitting and home depot only had a nylon one(I'll install a brass fitting when I get a chance). I highly recommend TexasT's write-up ( [size=0px]http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4228.0[/size][/color]) which I used exclusively. I wound up still having problems, like a lot of other people, re-installing the HB eyelet to the pedal. Maybe I missed it in the write-ups, but I found that the key is to not even engage the HB into the bolt holes. I had a helper hold the HB unit offset to the left (DS) so that there was about a 1/4" of space between the HB studs and holes. Then inside the car I mashed the brake to the floor, grabbed the rod and pulled with pliers... and the eyelet easily slipped over the pin. The other problem I had was breaking loose the PS line fitting on the steering box. I tried everything short of heating it (PB blaster, hitting w. hammer, working the line etc.) and eventually I stripped the nut with a flare wrench. My last course of action was to snap the line so I could get a 6 point socket on it, and that worked. The whole process cost me probably another 2 hours or so. BTW, I should add this to my BW& M thread because I sprayed that same fitting when I pulled the motor, and sprayed it again a couple times recently letting it set for weeks. So its basically had PB blaster on it for years and it still didn't work. I hated to break the PS line, but I don't think I'll ever go back to the PM so hopefully it's no big deal. Overall it was a good experience and if I had it to do over I might be able to do it in 4 or 5 hours, so it really wasn't too bad. The brakes themselves are very good now, and at least I have something I can rely on if I decide to drive it back to Ohio soon. Here are the pictures of the HB:
81
« on: August 29 2014, 11:04:47 PM »
It's official, I'm going with the hydroboost. the more I read about it the more I liked it. Everyone who has one really seems to like them. Plus I like the challenge. Better yet, I was able to pull some emergency funds because it's a "safety" item  Next on deck is a fuel pump. I'd like to buy a Walboro, but I want the real USA made version and not the china rip-off. I think this might be what I get: http://fullthrottlespeed.com/customkititems.asp+kc+834GMHP+eq+Here's the deal. I have to get the car back to Ohio here in a few weeks... and that's where the hotwire kit is. I'd rather have a new pump in there if I'm going to drive it the 800 miles. Would it be allright to have a new pump without a hotwire kit for the kit, or should I just leave the current pump in? I might have it shipped too, I know it's a bit risky. I'm not sure.
82
« on: August 27 2014, 07:35:23 PM »
Funny!
I think I'm going to go with a hydroboost conversion this weekend. I can see no disadvantage other than the price?
83
« on: August 25 2014, 10:17:29 PM »
I think I found out why the boost went higher than expected yesterday. I didn't tie wrap the plug that I used to block the vacuum line, and it blew off.
Today, to make sure the actuator was OK and to try to determine the pressure it opened, I pulled it out and put pressure to it with a mityvac. It has a hole in the diaphragm as well. I'll have to keep an eye out for one of those as well I guess.
84
« on: August 24 2014, 10:25:06 PM »
Yeah, I'm just glad that I listened to you and others and had the gauges installed. That was a recipe for disaster! Fun while it lasted though.
I just got back in from pulling off the powermaster and am not going back out tonight, so I'll have to get back with you when I get a chance to read the number. There is a tag on it with a bar code I think.
That's exactly what I am going to do do now (convert to vacuum). Those PMs are neat devices and I still like them, but there are too many things that can go wrong. Anyone have an NA brake pedal?
Finally, I have a sneaking suspicion that my transmission has an NA converter in it. The reason I think so is because I have never driven a car with anything but a stock converter, and this on feels no different... the car is kind of a slug off the line. I tried to brake torque it once and couldn't really build any boost whatsoever. I didn't notice what RPM it stalled at on the SM, and obviously I won't be brake torquing again anytime soon, is there a way to tell by looking at the converter???
85
« on: August 24 2014, 06:33:38 PM »
I test drove the car today with the wastgate rod adjusted as described previously and the wastegate solenoid vacuum tube plugged. I also replaced the missing bolt in the turbo. As expected I finally have some boost or a little more than expected.
I couldn't resist and accelerated a little before I hit the highway, closely watching the boost gauge. The needle quickly went past 10 psi and I let off the gas because it seemed like it would only go higher. It felt much quicker then the car I drove the day before of course.
I hit the highway, accelerated to about 60 and hit it, I was looking at the boost gauge and the boost went past 10 and I let off. I did this a few more times, noticing zero knock on the scanmaster each time. The final time the gauge flew past 15 psi when I let off quickly. It built up boost so quickly I really let it get higher than I would have liked (17-18psi), but still no retard on the scanmaster when I hit the recall button. All this time I wasn't paying attention to the fuel pressure gauge. So since I had a feel for what the boost was doing, I did a pull enough to get the boost up past 10 psi. I noticed the fuel pressure gauge hit about 51 or 52 psi, then hit a brick wall and started decreasing. Knowing this I gave it up for the day and likely won't test my luck again until I get the hotwire and a fuel pump installed.
Worse yet
When I was in some traffic I smelled an electrical burning smell. I immediately headed for home but before I got there my brake light flashed on. Sure enough I had no brake assist after that point. I bet that internal leak got worse and the pump running continuously melted down.
So now I'm dead in the water. I'll have to figure out what to do next.
86
« on: August 23 2014, 11:47:31 PM »
Ok, tomorrow this is the plan as I understand it.
To put wastegate at the factory location:
1: Disconnect the adjustable actuator rod.
2: Pull wastegate arm to the closed postition (as far to the driver's side as it will go)
3: Adjust the rod so that eyelet lines up about 1/8" to the driver's side of the wastegate arm.
4: Pull the rod toward PS until it engages on the wastegate arm and reinstall snap ring.
To bypass wastegate solenoid insuring no overboost:
1: remove and plug vacuum hose from wastegate solenoid on PS valve cover.
I'll reserve the TV adjustment for another time I think.
Do I have it right?
87
« on: August 23 2014, 11:05:12 PM »
I just need to savor the "victory" at this point. Good news too, the wife's asleep and no movie!! Tomorrow is going to be a better day.
88
« on: August 23 2014, 10:37:17 PM »
Just how did you communicate with Tomco?
they seem to be stuck in the 70's
Yeah, their website seems like it's from the 70's too! I tried to order from the website but gave up and I called the number on their website and got ahold of a couple people. After that it was great.
89
« on: August 23 2014, 10:34:30 PM »
Yep, the rod is adjustable and functionally similar to the hyperlink you posted.
I'll try to replace that bolt, shorten the rod some and block off the wastegate actuator tomorrow and see what happens.
Oh yeah another question, did the stock transmissions slide into gear from the factory (like a trans from the seventies)? Mine feels to me like it has a shift kit.
90
« on: August 23 2014, 10:01:22 PM »
Somehow I've managed to get 0 psi boost to this point... At least that is what my 3 gauges are telling me (autometer, factory, and seat of pants) It just feels like an NA v6. The gauge is brand new and I've tested it with compressed air from the fitting under the hood. Unfortunately it doesn't measure vacuum (0-60 psi full sweep), but I've never seen the factory "gauge" go higher than the 1 atm position, and it will read vacuum. I have been wondering if something else was wrong, but I had my adjustable wastegate link (If that is what its called) adjusted all the way out, so I thought maybe 0 boost was normal. Oh, also I have removed a bolt from the turbine housing (bolt broke and haven't replaced yet), you can hear and feel exhaust coming out the hole. In fact the only real way I have been aware of a turbo under the hood was a faint turbo whine under acceleration. I don't remember my turbo (stock) having a removable spring, I thought the diaphragm looked sealed. Am I wrong? When you say to run a hose directly from the wastegate actuator to the port on the compressor housing of the turbo, would this be the same thing as plugging the hose that goes to the wastegate solenoid? If so I can try that tomorrow and see what happens. I've updated my signature to reflect the current state of the car.
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