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Messages - wmsonta
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76
« on: August 16 2019, 06:55:28 PM »
Barn find. Car is worth more $$$ like that ! 
It is a barn find. I found it in my 'barn', right where I put it. 23 yrs ago. It still has a 'vintage' 1996 state inspection sticker in the window. It was covered for 19-20 yrs. I do not remember how many different covers. Some number. When car covers get crusty, they can damage paint.
77
« on: August 13 2019, 09:06:25 AM »
thanx-
After the baggie test, I now believe it will take about half as long as I originally thought. Buildup on the glass and horizontal surfaces is moderate. Buildup on the vertical surfaces is light. The previous owner put wax on top of wax, evidently. People curious about this journey-
78
« on: August 12 2019, 10:42:07 AM »
Someone w/ulterior motives once told me 'jealousy is a self fulfilling prophesy' so....
Man, you have nice toys..........
maybe I should just cut to the chase and proposition my banker.
79
« on: August 12 2019, 10:19:25 AM »
And I like to build things
I am glad you do. To be honest, my imagination does not go that far. I sure would like to make one hot lap though the nearby small town. Just to see if, the local Barney would self administer a sobriety test.
80
« on: August 11 2019, 10:43:52 PM »
That's cute, alright.
What substances were involved in the decision to street this thing?
81
« on: August 11 2019, 08:59:15 PM »
So, when you put in on the machine and you have 4 degrees positive caster, maybe set it at 2 degrees positive and see how it does. In the old days, cars w/o P.S. usually ran negative caster. I would aim for 1/16 - 1/8 total toe in. Start at 1/4 degree positive camber and you should be fine. This should be a good starting point to play on the street, if you're are going to road course it only, you can tweak it from there.
I do not have a problem with any of that. Anything within reason. I do not see +4,+5 caster as unreasonable. IMO, the reason why 4 decades of oem A arm cars were spec'd @ -1 to +2.25 caster, was the inability to achieve +3 caster. Not possible w/oem A arms. Race cars designed for 'speedways' could have unreasonable caster for other uses. Earl should be able to change camber some w/weight jacks. My advise on tow in echo's you. Anti-Ackerman geometry should have nothing to do with steering effort sitting still or traveling straight. I do not believe Earl will have a problem with that part of this. Steering effort @ 5 mph should be half that of sitting still. At 50 mph, his gf should be able to wheel it around. It will never be a car I would want to parallel park.
82
« on: August 11 2019, 08:18:00 PM »
one more-
83
« on: August 11 2019, 08:14:31 PM »
Installing the headliner mandated vacuuming the entire interior. I covered the interior with blankets from the rear glass to the dash. Did not stop that crap.
Drove the car to a car wash and flooded it. No high pressure, no rubbing and no soap. Went to the track yesterday pm.
Car air dried. Went to work this am, with the waterless wash. My opinion of the results are mixed. Did the 'baggie' test and I have quite a way to go. Could be worse. Time to break out the clay. Pics are not good, but I try-
84
« on: August 11 2019, 10:11:39 AM »
Earl, tow out is dangerous. A small amount @ slow speeds is not, but should be considered as such. Tow in and positive caster are necessary in small amounts on the street.
The POSSIBLE problem in this case is the ability of nearly unlimited adjustment and multiple owners with varied goals.
85
« on: August 10 2019, 09:15:47 AM »
"This one is an ex-Boris Said road course car."
There is the answer as to why they needed anti-Ackerman geometry for both right/left turns. I wondered.
"but my upper A-arms are the same length. I haven't pulled the lowers yet to measure them."
I would wait until it goes on an alignment rack. Street caster will reduce steering effort. Now, you are trying to m/c road race w/chopper rake. If the camber is/can be made reasonable, you are good.
"I haven't done the rear axle yet because I've been playing hell finding a 31 spline 9" chunk that's not a million dollars."
FoMoCo produced large numbers of 31 spline axles in tow package 3/4 t. and nearly all 1 t. trks, various hypo cars. The big N carrier housings will always be high priced and generally unnecessary.
I believe you are a m/c racer. This car may have found a home. Trials, motocross racers are typically waay more physical than they look. When done, this car will probably require more effort than your Buick to drive.
My weekends get hectic, good luck.
86
« on: August 09 2019, 09:41:27 PM »
My TVR doesn't have power steering. ...
. but they didn't have 12" wide front tires either.
I don't think the puny column bracket on the NECKCAR would let me drive it without power assist. I have a feeling I'd rip that little thing off the roll cage.
Which TVR? There is a little more to it than 12" tires. I do not know about 'speedway' cars but, I have seen track cars that were virtually impossible to turn sitting still. If your spindle steering arms are pointed both to the inside and that is all, you are lucky. Depending on how fast the car was designed to run, it could/would have had positive caster outside any normal street limits. I do know, the speedway cars can have different springs/shock valving on all 4 corners. The anti-Ackerman cars I was familiar with had a long and a short pair of A-arms. They had a long and a short spindle steer arm. Those cars were meant to run slower and make much tighter left turns. These cars were not the modern rear steer dirt cars of today.
87
« on: August 09 2019, 10:22:05 AM »
Oh boy, anti-Ackerman on the street.
Due to the large design radius of nascars, it should be somewhat street able. Power steering or increased ratio steering should be the answer. R&P steering?
Is there a gym membership in your future?
88
« on: July 23 2019, 06:33:59 PM »
good luck, guys. I agree, you should use silicone in those side seals.
89
« on: July 23 2019, 04:44:34 PM »
"Why in the hell would you seal the sides before torquing the cap down?"
"The FelPro rubber seals come with a couple of inserts to force into the pockets after filling them."
I do not know what to say. It is as if, nobody on this forum has ever installed neoprene side seals.
Silicone in lieu of side seals did not start w/turbo Buicks. It was used on nearly every rope seal motor made as soon as it was commonly available. I would guess, turbo buicks were the last to that party based on the yrs of production. Before silicone, every kind of sealer, various compounds, cement w/ ground rubber, et al.
I will have to give all this some thought. Busy now.
90
« on: July 22 2019, 07:46:20 PM »
Do people put sealants between the main cap and its register? I have done a number of rope main rear seals, but have not done that.
Hell, I am reasonably sure, I never used silicone sealers. Not sure it existed.
This is my part in this. How it started. Turns out not only do they, but a large number of people do. I might as well cause more and say I have always used the neoprene side seals when available. As long as they install from the top. Put another way, installed after the main cap and before it is torqued.
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