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Messages - wmsonta
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76
« on: August 11 2019, 08:59:15 PM »
So, when you put in on the machine and you have 4 degrees positive caster, maybe set it at 2 degrees positive and see how it does. In the old days, cars w/o P.S. usually ran negative caster. I would aim for 1/16 - 1/8 total toe in. Start at 1/4 degree positive camber and you should be fine. This should be a good starting point to play on the street, if you're are going to road course it only, you can tweak it from there.
I do not have a problem with any of that. Anything within reason. I do not see +4,+5 caster as unreasonable. IMO, the reason why 4 decades of oem A arm cars were spec'd @ -1 to +2.25 caster, was the inability to achieve +3 caster. Not possible w/oem A arms. Race cars designed for 'speedways' could have unreasonable caster for other uses. Earl should be able to change camber some w/weight jacks. My advise on tow in echo's you. Anti-Ackerman geometry should have nothing to do with steering effort sitting still or traveling straight. I do not believe Earl will have a problem with that part of this. Steering effort @ 5 mph should be half that of sitting still. At 50 mph, his gf should be able to wheel it around. It will never be a car I would want to parallel park.
77
« on: August 11 2019, 08:18:00 PM »
one more-
78
« on: August 11 2019, 08:14:31 PM »
Installing the headliner mandated vacuuming the entire interior. I covered the interior with blankets from the rear glass to the dash. Did not stop that crap.
Drove the car to a car wash and flooded it. No high pressure, no rubbing and no soap. Went to the track yesterday pm.
Car air dried. Went to work this am, with the waterless wash. My opinion of the results are mixed. Did the 'baggie' test and I have quite a way to go. Could be worse. Time to break out the clay. Pics are not good, but I try-
79
« on: August 11 2019, 10:11:39 AM »
Earl, tow out is dangerous. A small amount @ slow speeds is not, but should be considered as such. Tow in and positive caster are necessary in small amounts on the street.
The POSSIBLE problem in this case is the ability of nearly unlimited adjustment and multiple owners with varied goals.
80
« on: August 10 2019, 09:15:47 AM »
"This one is an ex-Boris Said road course car."
There is the answer as to why they needed anti-Ackerman geometry for both right/left turns. I wondered.
"but my upper A-arms are the same length. I haven't pulled the lowers yet to measure them."
I would wait until it goes on an alignment rack. Street caster will reduce steering effort. Now, you are trying to m/c road race w/chopper rake. If the camber is/can be made reasonable, you are good.
"I haven't done the rear axle yet because I've been playing hell finding a 31 spline 9" chunk that's not a million dollars."
FoMoCo produced large numbers of 31 spline axles in tow package 3/4 t. and nearly all 1 t. trks, various hypo cars. The big N carrier housings will always be high priced and generally unnecessary.
I believe you are a m/c racer. This car may have found a home. Trials, motocross racers are typically waay more physical than they look. When done, this car will probably require more effort than your Buick to drive.
My weekends get hectic, good luck.
81
« on: August 09 2019, 09:41:27 PM »
My TVR doesn't have power steering. ...
. but they didn't have 12" wide front tires either.
I don't think the puny column bracket on the NECKCAR would let me drive it without power assist. I have a feeling I'd rip that little thing off the roll cage.
Which TVR? There is a little more to it than 12" tires. I do not know about 'speedway' cars but, I have seen track cars that were virtually impossible to turn sitting still. If your spindle steering arms are pointed both to the inside and that is all, you are lucky. Depending on how fast the car was designed to run, it could/would have had positive caster outside any normal street limits. I do know, the speedway cars can have different springs/shock valving on all 4 corners. The anti-Ackerman cars I was familiar with had a long and a short pair of A-arms. They had a long and a short spindle steer arm. Those cars were meant to run slower and make much tighter left turns. These cars were not the modern rear steer dirt cars of today.
82
« on: August 09 2019, 10:22:05 AM »
Oh boy, anti-Ackerman on the street.
Due to the large design radius of nascars, it should be somewhat street able. Power steering or increased ratio steering should be the answer. R&P steering?
Is there a gym membership in your future?
83
« on: July 23 2019, 06:33:59 PM »
good luck, guys. I agree, you should use silicone in those side seals.
84
« on: July 23 2019, 04:44:34 PM »
"Why in the hell would you seal the sides before torquing the cap down?"
"The FelPro rubber seals come with a couple of inserts to force into the pockets after filling them."
I do not know what to say. It is as if, nobody on this forum has ever installed neoprene side seals.
Silicone in lieu of side seals did not start w/turbo Buicks. It was used on nearly every rope seal motor made as soon as it was commonly available. I would guess, turbo buicks were the last to that party based on the yrs of production. Before silicone, every kind of sealer, various compounds, cement w/ ground rubber, et al.
I will have to give all this some thought. Busy now.
85
« on: July 22 2019, 07:46:20 PM »
Do people put sealants between the main cap and its register? I have done a number of rope main rear seals, but have not done that.
Hell, I am reasonably sure, I never used silicone sealers. Not sure it existed.
This is my part in this. How it started. Turns out not only do they, but a large number of people do. I might as well cause more and say I have always used the neoprene side seals when available. As long as they install from the top. Put another way, installed after the main cap and before it is torqued.
86
« on: July 21 2019, 09:56:27 PM »
Wmsonta, the consensus of opinion today is that most main seal leaks are not around the seal, but more likely, and in greater volume, at the parting lines of the cap with the block.
If I agree or not, it's not going to change what works/has worked for me. Last fall when I decided to sell everything, I owned 6 rope seal engines. A Vega, a Monza, a GN and 3 Caddy 500's. I did 3 rope main seal repairs before I was old enough to drive. All 3 had unacceptable results. Have not had a failure since. I am not going to put anything on the main cap mating surface. I can't get that surface clean enough to suit me. Use what works for you or what ever you want. Things are better now. The first repairs I attempted were rope for both the crankshaft and the 'H' (side) seals. By the early '70's mechanics used 6 cyl (single lip) crank seals/Felpro neoprene side seals, on all those Vega's parked everywhere. I do not see a problem.
87
« on: July 21 2019, 03:11:14 PM »
It won’t make the cap stand up off its mating surface and give extra bearing clearance like RTV.
Do people put sealants between the main cap and its register? I have done a number of rope main rear seals, but have not done that. Hell, I am reasonably sure, I never used silicone sealers. Not sure it existed.
88
« on: July 20 2019, 09:58:53 AM »
Thanks for the reply.
I also had a long time friend who said I should investigate Adam's Polishes. Turns out, he doesn't use them. He has been involved with high end show stuff for probably 40 yrs.
I have bought stuff I have used previously where I could. My order has shipped.
Trying to acclimate to this heat (107 index yesterday). When I opened the shop yesterday pm, it was probably 110*. I promptly stepped on the package containing the rear clips for my new headliner. Broke 2 of 3.
2 steps forward, 3 steps back.
89
« on: July 19 2019, 10:12:25 AM »
"I tried to do some research on "paint correction" ( what a yuppie phrase) in the spring.
Both cars have been neglected for a while. They are drivers and have had repaints so not in the same class as your cars."
If yours were repainted in the last 20 yrs, you are probably dealing with better quality paint.
"Seems everybody is an expert in detailing and they are all polarized fan boys, probably to sell the brands they tout."
I wish I knew more about it, today. A lot of the brands I knew anything about are long gone. I guarantee, I will be unable to tell if the paint is clean without the 'baggie test'.
"I finally ran across one youtuber who acknowledged the insanity, suggested simply use (after clay) griot complete compound from a chain store with a decent DA and an orange pad. Probably the way I will go."
Man, I would like to use a machine. If I value the result, experience has taught not to. I would in an instant if I was working with clearcoat. I watched a really young man erase a deep scratch in a few minutes. Deep enough to catch a fingernail. Probably 16 in long. Clear coat is usually that thick.
90
« on: July 18 2019, 07:48:28 PM »
almost like they don't want to work.
If he didn't want to do my car, he should have just said so. He was booked solid 5 wks ahead. I can understand, he can make easier money than an original paint car that has been stored 23 yrs. Anyway, I bought supplies from Auto Geek today. I hit some kind of lottery and got 25% off + free shipping. Detailer's Pride is gone, the same product sold by the same man is McKee's waterless wash. XMT Speed Clay is gone and I bought the product that replaced it. I bought a 6 pk of Cobra 600 Jr micro fiber towels. Not shaded enough time where I want to do this. Some will have to be done inside the shop.
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