Valve Springs replacement

[Steve Wood]

Good to know math still works😱😆

[gnonyx]

No need to touch the white nylon plugs.  Just pull the three bolts

Either set of locks will work as you are not running a high pressure spring.  Only three bucks or so difference in them.

Thank You Steve for all of your help
Once I get the valves springs, retainers, and locks, and start to install them I will post again; if I don't run in trouble
Have a nice weekend, Julio

Hi Steve,
I removed the rocker assembly, clean everything, now just waiting for the comp springs to be deliver.
I'm glad I removed the intake manifold, both rubber gaskets were dried and brittle.
Ordered the 981's with the retainers, and steel locks 7 Degree
also I will need to order a Heater Inlet/Outlet Pipe Assembly, thermostat, will replace the nasty white nylon plugs, being the total cost of $20.00.
I removed the all grounds wires from behind the pass. head, bolted them together and then used electrical rubber tape and then wrapped with electrical vinyl tape; not for high voltage, but to keep it dry from moisture. I did bolted behind the engine block where 2 ground wires where bolted before, and here it's more accessible if needed.
I will post as once the springs arrive.

[Scoobum]

You can tighten it on the rear intake stud like I show in my grounds vid.

[Steve Wood]

Be sure you order a new thermostat housing while you are at it.  Smear a little grease on the rubber seal before you reinstall it.

Probably 95% of the people install the ground bundle on the rear intake stud as Brad said.  One of my cars is that way and the other one has the Caspers ground relocation kit and also Caspers fusible link relocation kit.  Smarter people probably just make their own LOL

I have often used this stuff on connectors before reconnecting things    https://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT-D5S-6-Contact-Cleaner-Integrated/dp/B0002BBV4G/ref=psdc_3230976011_t2_B00E1QZ01S

I have often found these useful when doing wiring projects on cars.  https://www.camarocentral.com/1967_1971_Battery_Cable_Junction_Block_With_Nut_p/wir-341.htm         I am glad you made me think of them as I should have a few out in the shop and I can use one or two on my station wagon rewiring project.  Pretty sad when an old man can improve old Mopar factory wiring by at least a 1000%

[gnonyx]

Be sure you order a new thermostat housing while you are at it.  Smear a little grease on the rubber seal before you reinstall it.

Probably 95% of the people install the ground bundle on the rear intake stud as Brad said.  One of my cars is that way and the other one has the Caspers ground relocation kit and also Caspers fusible link relocation kit.  Smarter people probably just make their own LOL

I have often used this stuff on connectors before reconnecting things    https://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT-D5S-6-Contact-Cleaner-Integrated/dp/B0002BBV4G/ref=psdc_3230976011_t2_B00E1QZ01S

I have often found these useful when doing wiring projects on cars.  https://www.camarocentral.com/1967_1971_Battery_Cable_Junction_Block_With_Nut_p/wir-341.htm         I am glad you made me think of them as I should have a few out in the shop and I can use one or two on my station wagon rewiring project.  Pretty sad when an old man can improve old Mopar factory wiring by at least a 1000%

Yes, I saw many different types of grounds connections, and ground straps, and the inserted picture is the ground strap I used.
I already replaced the thermostat housing with the stainless steel type many years ago, and if someone don't have one it can a real pain to remove.
I have read somewhere to drill an 1/8" hole on top of thermostat to help burp the system; is this true or just install?
Thanks

[Scoobum]

Make sure you remove the other underhood grounds while you're there and clean them. If your battery ground cable and battery positive cable are original replace those as well. Caspers sell perfect replacements.

[Steve Wood]

You really don't need a hole in the thermostat on a buick

[gnonyx]

You really don't need a hole in the thermostat on a buick

I forgot to ask since a while back there was a major discussion about using a 160 degree thermostat or the 180 degree thermostat. 160 keeps the engine cooler as where the 180 keeps the engine warmer as per factory spec.
I know this can open a can of worms (per say), but need to know.
What do you think?

[reality]

You really don't need a hole in the thermostat on a buick

I forgot to ask since a while back there was a major discussion about using a 160 degree thermostat or the 180 degree thermostat. 160 keeps the engine cooler as where the 180 keeps the engine warmer as per factory spec.
I know this can open a can of worms (per say), but need to know.
What do you think?

What is the question?
For a street car the 180 is the 1 to use. I think
And your assumption, is just that, about keeping the engine cooler.
That's just my opinion though.

[Steve Wood]

I agree  180

[gnonyx]

I agree  180

I'm nowhere near of completion of valve springs replacement, but right now I want to get things in order when the spring is delivered.
Everything is already clean, and valve cover gasket is replaced, but the only thing I want to confirm is the intake valley gasket installation. (FEL-PRO MS 96033 Valley Pan Gasket Set)
the only place to apply RTV is where the corner end of the heads and block meets, and NO RTV around the water ports, and install the pan gasket dry.
Just to confirm my statement
Thanks

[Steve Wood]

people do it in numerous ways.

I don't recall what we did two or three years ago when William and I put a new set of heads on my GN.  But I used to put a very thin smear of silicone around the water ports and once or twice, I put it very thin around the intake ports if I saw any pitting on the surfaces around the port.  Also on the ends, of course.

I think the gaskets were made to go on dry, but new heads and intake should not have had any pitting, either.  I think you will be fine no matter which way you go.  Your choice.

[Scoobum]

We used silicone around the water ports.

[gnonyx]

people do it in numerous ways.

I don't recall what we did two or three years ago when William and I put a new set of heads on my GN.  But I used to put a very thin smear of silicone around the water ports and once or twice, I put it very thin around the intake ports if I saw any pitting on the surfaces around the port.  Also on the ends, of course.

I think the gaskets were made to go on dry, but new heads and intake should not have had any pitting, either.  I think you will be fine no matter which way you go.  Your choice.

Thank you Steve, I have been searching on how and if needed RTV around the water ports, but most video using individual intake gaskets.

[gnonyx]

We used silicone around the water ports.

Hi Scoobum, Thanks for the info, as mention before I wasn't sure if it need it or not.
You definitely don't want to take the intake manifold out again cause of a leak.
I guess one would use high temp black RTV gasket maker, and if not which one?