Valve Springs replacement

[Steve Wood]

I don't.  torqued to 25 ft lbs, they should not come loose.

I think it is wise to try to torque them down evenly (going up and down the shaft several times.  If I remember, putting the engine on TDC will have most of the passenger side valve close to being closed and that will allow minimum work against the springs when torquing the shafts down.  Then turning the engine about a 1/4 turn will get a number of the driver's side valve close to being closed to minimize spring loads against the shafts...

I have heard of shafts cracking or breaking when someone tried to tighten one bolt on the way down at once rather than going back and forth.

I don't know if anyone makes studs to replace the factory shaft bolts, but those would be nice, imo.

[gnonyx]

I don't.  torqued to 25 ft lbs, they should not come loose.

I think it is wise to try to torque them down evenly (going up and down the shaft several times.  If I remember, putting the engine on TDC will have most of the passenger side valve close to being closed and that will allow minimum work against the springs when torquing the shafts down.  Then turning the engine about a 1/4 turn will get a number of the driver's side valve close to being closed to minimize spring loads against the shafts...

I have heard of shafts cracking or breaking when someone tried to tighten one bolt on the way down at once rather than going back and forth.

I don't know if anyone makes studs to replace the factory shaft bolts, but those would be nice, imo.

Thanks for the great info of setting the engine to TDC for the passenger side, as I already bolted down the driver side.
I 1st tighten bolts by hand, then used 7/16" socket and tighten each bolt sequential .
I will turn the engine about a 1/4 turn for the driver's side valve to close, and check again the 25 ft-lbs torqued

[Steve Wood]

you want to tighten each one just a little and go to the next one..work up and down the shaft until all have reached 25

[gnonyx]

you want to tighten each one just a little and go to the next one..work up and down the shaft until all have reached 25

Yes that is what I did on the driver side, as I'm waiting fir the passenger side retainers to come this coming Thursday.
Thanks again Steve for the great info

[gnonyx]

as far as I know, you have not done anything to lose oil pressure.  I always just dribble oil over the springs and rockers for some pre-lube and start the engine.

Hi Steve,
 I finally got the part, assembly all, and today I started the engine
At 1st I was concern about the intake gasket as I did put very little of Permatex ultra black gasket maker rtv silicone around the water and intake ports, on both sides of the intake gasket. Once the engine started for a few seconds I did checked the oil dip stick just to make sure there was no water mix with the oil. There was a lot of ticking noise coming from the valve springs, and I did put comps cam spray lubricate on everything except on the lifters. I did put regular oil on the lifters as I lifted them up rotate them a bit just to make sure none of them was stuck or hanging up.
I guess it took awhile for the oil to lube through push rods and after a few seconds the ticking noise got quieter.
According to Comps Cam, run the engine between 1500-2000rpm until the engine is running at normal temperature.
I ran it for about 15 minutes, shut down and let it cool down, and after 1/2 hrs I started the engine again and I can tell you the engine runs and sounds good.
Here are the Scanmaster readings:
O2-519
AF-04
LB-31
BAT-13.5
INT-128
BL-130
NPH-0
CLT-173
ATS-80
R-825
TPS-.40
IAC-14
CC-66-250
NAL-0
Oil Pres-28
Vac-18.5 (steady)
A/F-13.1-14.0
Thank You Steve for all your help and advises, especially to replace the intake manifold gasket; previous VAC was at 15.0-15.5, and the previous A/F was 15.4-15.7
Thanks Again Steve

[Steve Wood]

👍👍👍