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IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
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Engine break in oil change
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Topic: Engine break in oil change (Read 2942 times)
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Shimy87
Turbo Street Eliminator
Posts: 1250
PSI: 2
Engine break in oil change
«
on:
May 08 2021, 08:41:52 AM »
At what amount of miles should I change out the initial break in oil, and then the same question for that oil?
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87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter
ULYCYC
Turbo Street Modified
Posts: 872
PSI: 4
Re: Engine break in oil change
«
Reply #1 on:
May 08 2021, 09:05:25 AM »
Whatever good or bad in the build will show in the 1st hour. Run it, drive it and change the oil the next day, week month of some favorite miles someone has in there head. Any non-synthetic 10-30 works fine for break-in. If you load the break-in oil with zddp or special break-in oil or lube then change the oil the next day or two. That stuff clogs the oil filter and pickup.
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ED BAKER
87-T, Maplight equipped rear view mirror..
01 Park Ave Ultra S\'charged
BPG#1458
Steve Wood
Turbo Street Outlaw
Posts: 9953
PSI: 34
Re: Engine break in oil change
«
Reply #2 on:
May 08 2021, 09:20:41 AM »
Quote
Joe Gibbs Driven BR break-in motor oil is used by Joe Gibbs Racing to break-in and dyno all of their engines. Petroleum oil provides the highest levels of zinc and phosphorus for flat-tappet engines. Additive package promotes ring seal and provides maximum protection available for cams and lifters during initial break-in. It requires no additional additives and is good for full power pulls on the dyno, one night of racing or up to 400 miles on the street. It provides maximum compression and generates maximum horsepower. Compatible with methanol and high-octane race fuels. Combined with Joe Gibbs Driven engine assembly grease, BR provides the highest levels of protection for camshafts, lifters, wrist pins, distributor gears, push rods and valve retainers. The Joe Gibbs Driven BR break-in motor oil can be used for up to 2 hours of break-in/dyno time before changing to race oil.
I used JG the last couple of times. It appeared to work very well. I agree with Ed's comments particularly on using the GM additive like we all used to. Also, many people don't realize that extra high concentrations of zddp are bad for engine components and that is another reason to not leave it in the engine very long. The guys that sell it don't mention that very often.
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Steve Wood
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com
A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.
Shimy87
Turbo Street Eliminator
Posts: 1250
PSI: 2
Re: Engine break in oil change
«
Reply #3 on:
May 08 2021, 07:07:16 PM »
I ran it for about 13 miles. Or about 25 minuets last fall until the radiator started leaking. Replaced that last week and started it and drove it for another 10 miles or about 15 minuets. Hot oil pressure is about 43 at cruise and 20 at idle. Should I put more miles on it now or change out to regular oil.
Just wondering cause im sure its not normal to have six months between first and second runnings
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87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter
Steve Wood
Turbo Street Outlaw
Posts: 9953
PSI: 34
Re: Engine break in oil change
«
Reply #4 on:
May 08 2021, 08:18:11 PM »
I would change it
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Steve Wood
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com
A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.
Shimy87
Turbo Street Eliminator
Posts: 1250
PSI: 2
Re: Engine break in oil change
«
Reply #5 on:
May 08 2021, 08:30:04 PM »
Thanks Steve!!
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87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter
phil_long
F47
Turbo Street Eliminator
Posts: 1567
PSI: 0
...far from avg
Re: Engine break in oil change
«
Reply #6 on:
May 10 2021, 02:25:01 PM »
This is good info. Does this go for a roller setup as well? Or just flat tappet?
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Steve Wood
Turbo Street Outlaw
Posts: 9953
PSI: 34
Re: Engine break in oil change
«
Reply #7 on:
May 10 2021, 02:35:42 PM »
Roller cams really don't need a conventional break in because the roller base is not "scrubbing" on the cam lobe like conventional lifters. There are those that believe it does not hurt to use break in oil anyway as there is still some minimal wear going on when the rollers are first riding on the lobes and that push rod tips, valve stems and such may benefit from a break in oil during the first few minutes of engine start on new parts.
I probably don't think it is required, but, it certainly will not hurt anything. It still needs to be changed out after a brief time of operation not only because it becomes corrosive quickly, but also because the filter can be clogged as it is separated from the oil. New engines from the factory sure don't have any on first start up.
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Steve Wood
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com
A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.
phil_long
F47
Turbo Street Eliminator
Posts: 1567
PSI: 0
...far from avg
Re: Engine break in oil change
«
Reply #8 on:
May 12 2021, 04:34:22 PM »
That's an awesome explanation per usual from you sir. Thank you for that info
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Engine break in oil change
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