New Cooling System what to use?

[earlbrown]

Evapro-rust is awesome.  But it's expensive as hell and sucks when you dilute it.

Molasses is a lot cheaper

[Just a Six?]

Dave I just ordered one from them because Glen at Highway Stars won't ship to Canada anymore. I told them that I get stuff monthly from Rock Auto & now GBody but they said no. It was stock replacement for 50% of what GBody charged me. I was going to ship to Orlando first then here but in the end that's not worth the hassle. The shiny & no nipple should look pretty decent.

I do like the Rust stuff looks like it may be good for Metal Prep before paint coatings. 

I have a spray can of rust stop I used a while back on Metal Furniture that you just spray onto the rust & it makes it paintable. I remember ingredients said tannic acid from plants. Came from Canuck Tire in automotive section & it's about $12-$13 a can.

[Steve Wood]

The GBody ones without the throttlebody outlets are nice...and pricey but, still nice

[daveismissing]

David,don’t be a cheap bugger! 😉
You’re spent a bundle on the car and replaced the radiator , Heater so why not replace the steel coolant line with a stainless steel unit .
you’ll never have to worry about it again !
I’m with Steve on this one, I run Prestone antifreeze Plus RMI 25 and have so for years with no ill effects 👍

How long do you guys expect to live?   We got 30 years out of the originals- I would like to think I still have my drivers licence at 95 yrs old but dunno....

[Scoobum]

Way to much thinking going on.

[earlbrown]

No kidding

[Scoobum]

It never ceases to amaze me how guys love to complicate these cars.

[earlbrown]

What gets me is how selective it is.

Wars have been waged with the amount of emotion behind brand names (not weights) of oil, yet nobody gives a shit about brand of transmission fluid.    Mobil1 'destroys engines' but Wal*Mart (where I get mine) is fine ATF, nobody cares.

  Then, you got the guys that change the oil every 300 miles, or once a month, and probably still has the original brake fluid in the car from the 80's.    And nobody gives a crap about gear dope brand or weight or type.    (There are the 'experts' that say you have to run posi-additive on a 150,000 G80...   They just don't know why.   And I never run whale snot in my G80. It's too worn to need it. ESP with my synthetic dope).


   The cooling system can sometimes we worse than oil.   If a car runs hot because the radiator is clogged the solution is NOT to install a non-clogged radiator....     You have to have some hi-dollar all aluminum wizbang radiator that can keep the ISS cool when out sun goes supernova. 

   Oh and you have to have a cooling fan that pulls 1000amps and sucks harder than a Thai hooker....    too cool down the 15hp a car makes at idle.     None of that heat comes from the Massive parasitic drag from the 10,000 amp alternator blowing through the 16 gauge charge lead...


     ...even though the grill opening is always the same size and air still weighs the same 8/100#/ft3.



  To quote Travis W. Redfish (Meatloaf) from the movie ''Roadie''...     ''Things will work if you just let 'em''.

[TexasT]

Even jegs and summit would go under if they didn't have a trick of the month to sell. Everybody has to make a living. 

[Shimy87]

 "sucks harder than a Thai hooker.... "  CLASSIC 

[Scoobum]

I was a Buick vendors worst nitemare. I was one of these guys who dragged the most from the least.

[Just a Six?]

So I'm still working on issues with the car & this one is new to me? New rad, heater core & 160 thermostat are new & the only old parts are the heater core water Control Valve & rad cap. When I run the car for as little as 30-45 seconds the rad builds up pressure so that when I remove the cap it's holding a fair amount of pressure as far as to sometimes shoot water out as I remove the cap? Also that 30 seconds run time has the pressure held a good week later opening the cap? I've never had this happen unless the rad was hot from minutes of run time but never 30 seconds? 

[ULYCYC]

You put the thermostat in backwards or its stuck or clogged with dodo.

[Just a Six?]

Thanks Ed I'll take a look at it tomorrow. I hope it's not backwards but nothing's impossible with this car lately!

[Just a Six?]

I took out the thermostat filled the rad & started the car to make sure the water is flowing & it's moving a good amount of water especially when I raise the rpm above idle. So put on the rad cap & run it 30 secs & turn off the car. Slowly open rad cap & it's totally pressurized & would puke water if I took the cap off all the way so what the hell is going on?
On a side note I ran it for a couple mins yesterday before I shut it off & there was No pressure this morning unlike how it held when the thermostat was installed.

There is a bit of brown foamy residue in the water because I tried to flush the old rad & heater core a few times & then purchased the new ones so I'm sure there was some left inside the other parts when I filled it but it's not chunky just foamy bubbles floating on the top of the water. I think I got most of it out with fresh water but still a bit in there.