Bradys build

[nocooler]

Clean injectors are always a good thing. $150 seems steep when you can get a cleaning setup for under $300 now (4 injector setup). I might have to order one, the damn thing would pay for itself quickly.

[Shimy87]

yes, I could have shopped around and shipped them somewhere for cheaper I'm sure, but there is a place right here in town, I will have them back in the morning. With the snow here now my test driving window is very short. Dont want to be driving in any salt after getting the underside all spiffed up

Side note, during our first test drive the boy was pretty nervous the cops would catch us, as we have not switched the title, no plates, no insurance and the car is pretty far from "legal" ....I told him we would just have to " run for it" if we spotted a cop. I think I'm a bad influence on him...hahaha

[Scoobum]

Put boost to it again with not enuf volts for the fuel pump and it'll be down needing head gaskets.

[Shimy87]

What's a good alt to pick up

[Steve Wood]

One for a 94-96 impala...no rebuilts

[Shimy87]

Thanks guys

[Shimy87]

150 bucks for new alt, I think I will take this one apart, clean up the internals and see if it will work. So much stuff was rusty maybe that's the problem???

[Steve Wood]

Maybe a bad diode or brushes. I assume your volt light is coming on with the key on?

[Shimy87]

I thought it was but just checked and no its not??

[Steve Wood]

Then it's probably not the alternator

[Shimy87]

read a ton of threads on the dreaded "no volt light" looks like i will be tearing the dash apart to get this straightened out. At this point I know I have a good 194 bulb in the socket so next stop is removing and cleaning the plug connection for the gauge cluster.

[Steve Wood]

1. Fix the contact problem in the dash.

2. Or, run a wire from 12v that is hot, key on, thru a  bulb/socket from the Help section, into the brown wire to the alternator.  The bulb will light when the key is on and go off when the engine starts just like the dash should do.

3.  Or, run a wire from 12v thru a 1/4 watt, approximately 400 ohm resistor into the brown wire to the alternator.

4. Or buy the alternator fix from Caspers and hook it up to the brown wire plug to the alternator.

Do not run 12v straight to the alternator brown wire as it will shortly burn up the diodes in the alternator.  The Bulb, the Resistor, or the Alternator Fix will all keep this from happening and allow the alternator to charge normally.

[Shimy87]

Thanks!! Really going to try to fix dash but if I can't get it plan on using #2 solution....wi ll probably try to mount solution 2 in the original dash location if I have to go that route

[Steve Wood]

As the voltage reported by SM or PL is not all that accurate in my experience, I like to use a voltmeter which I tend to pay more attention to than the light-therefore, I don't spend too much time worrying about not having a light in the dash if it proves troublesome.

[Chrisssssssss]

Reading your thread... I'm going through some similar things you are. Just to add from your first question is about that little box with the lights on it in the engine bay... my car has one too. What it does is gives your engine computer full 100% pedal reference voltage at like 80 or 90% pedal mainly used for if you were drag racing the car. So instead of the car fluctuating slightly at WOT the box sees anything over 80-90% (can't remember the exact % but something like that) and automatically gives the computer 100% solid so if your foot is making the pedal fluctuate slightly it won't make a difference becuase the computer will be seeing a WOT voltage at max and therefore making sure it doesn't back off any settings at all ecen slightly so you will get steady maximum performance throughout your run. I didn't know if you knew that or not... anyways good luck