Zap *STILL* wears Depends
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The gasket under the turbo the triangle one is key. Pretty much all of them leak a little at the bushing for the wastegate flapper. Once warm it should leak a little less. High BLMs are telling you the computer thinks there is an air leak in the system somewhere between the maf and the o2 sensor. Once the exhaust is sealed - reset the computer and then let it relearn and see where you are at. You've just got to keep at it and you'll find the cause of all your issues.
Pitted...just like Scoob said. Buick owners love to struggle.
I concur strongly in taking the headers to a machine shop and having them true up and resurfaced on a belt sander. If they have been welded, then I consider it pretty much imperative.I used to almost never use a gasket. It seems that it has become standard these days and a paper thin coat of high temp is suggested. Copper high temp spray probably works as well.I have never liked Remflex header gaskets. I am not familiar with flange gaskets, tho.
I don't know how hot the header/joint becomes, but, exhaust gas temps on my cars run around 700 degrees at idle and 1400-1700 at wide open throttle. Personally, I would not use the gray stuff, but, it might last. I don't like the RemFlex because I have had them blow out on regular cars. They seemed to relax and then the exhaust gas burned it's way through to freedom and ruined the gasket. I realize some swear by them so I guess it might be 50-50I used a thin coat of high temp and let it set over night to seal pits before cranking the car and prefer a thin FelPro because I think it will not relax as much, but? Opinions are a dime a dozen and we can always find one we like on the 'Net. It's kinda like a lottery. I find that it always can be done over again if one is highly motivated
That turbo oil drain sure changed shape.