Stock Header removal

[gnonyx]

 A REAL BIG THANK YOU TO EARL
I removed the header shield and as you can see the informous crack.
I used a magnified glass and I think their might be another hair line crack right by the edge of the poor weld job the factory did.
I know these headers are not fully S/S, do I get welded like steel rod or get welded by mig welder?

[Steve Wood]

They are stainless. There are a number of grades of stainless. TIG would probably be best but MIG has worked for me

[gnonyx]

After all is welded is it best to put the shield back on the header?

[gusszgs]

I did, but I wanted to retain the factory look. If the crack is at the 3-5 junction, and probably is, it’s a good idea to have a gusset welded in for added strength.
Check the flanges with a straight edge before install.
Any headers I’ve repaired I’ve always had the flange machined arrow straight and no gasket. Never a problem after.

[gnonyx]

I did, but I wanted to retain the factory look. If the crack is at the 3-5 junction, and probably is, it’s a good idea to have a gusset welded in for added strength.
Check the flanges with a straight edge before install.
Any headers I’ve repaired I’ve always had the flange machined arrow straight and no gasket. Never a problem after.

Thanks and yes I'm also going to place a triangle metal between 3&5 for extra strength

[gnonyx]

Update: I finally got the ds header welded, used Fel-Pro gasket, spray on the header side high temp copper gasket sealer, and installed. Started engine, and the blm stay at 128 until engine hot warm and then the blm started to climb up to 160 again. I did notice some smoke coming from what looks like underneath the turbo or around the lever arm of the wastegate.
Correct me if I'm wrong, anything coming from the downpipe to the elbow has nothing to do with blm, but everything from the elbow towards the engine has everything to do with the blm?
Would anyone have other items of why the blm is so high?

[Scoobum]

Go back and read reply number 3...

[gnonyx]

Go back and read reply number 3...

sorry I don't understand where is number 3?

[TexasT]

Re: Stock Header removal« Reply #3 on: March 01 2020, 02:29:45 PM »

• Quote

As Steve says, these engines never came with gaskets. Over a gazillion heat/cooling cycles shit warps. In a perfect world you'd bolt them back up without gaskets. If they're dead straight then you're good to go. The cheapass Felpros with the hooked ends swap out the easiest if they ain't straight.


Pull the downpipe out...and while you're at it pound out the shit in the convertor. The turbo will spool faster and your throttle response will be crisper. Yank the turbo off it...and you'll notice the flange on it will likely be pitted. RJC sells a nice Scoob approved gasket for it. The two nuts on the crossover on the DS are a breeze to get at...the passenger side...not so much. When you snap the exhaust studs, hit your local muffler shop up to remove them and get them to set you up with the proper studs and nuts. Scoob has an engine removal vid from underneath what has to be done.


Dan and I had a DS header warped so bad we cut the flange to get it to flush up.

[gnonyx]

As Steve says, these engines never came with gaskets. Over a gazillion heat/cooling cycles shit warps. In a perfect world you'd bolt them back up without gaskets. If they're dead straight then you're good to go. The cheapass Felpros with the hooked ends swap out the easiest if they ain't straight.


Pull the downpipe out...and while you're at it pound out the shit in the converter. The turbo will spool faster and your throttle response will be crisper. Yank the turbo off it...and you'll notice the flange on it will likely be pitted. RJC sells a nice Scoob approved gasket for it. The two nuts on the crossover on the DS are a breeze to get at...the passenger side...not so much. When you snap the exhaust studs, hit your local muffler shop up to remove them and get them to set you up with the proper studs and nuts. Scoob has an engine removal vid from underneath what has to be done.


Dan and I had a DS header warped so bad we cut the flange to get it to flush up.

\
I do understand these engine never came with gasket, that statement I mention is when I used gaskets when I replaced both headers many years ago.
During the time of replacing both headers, I also gutted the convertor
I thought maybe the crossover pipe connected to the ds header might leaking since that time I saw some smoke coming from that connection or coming from the ds header. So I put some high temp rtv around the ds header ball end that connects to the crossover pipe, and when I remove the ds header again the ds header ball the rtv was perfectly clean off from being compress from the 2 bolts of being tighten.
Keep in mind I haven't driven this car for over 15 years, I only start it occasionally 3 months or so.
This is why it so hard for me to understand the crack on header if I haven't driven the car.
This why I'm asking about the turbo gasket by the waste gate area, or the triangle shape gasket underneath the turbo. Keep in mind I also replaced the triangle shape gasket with graphite gasket.

[earlbrown]

It was cracked 15 years ago when you parked it.

[gnonyx]

It was cracked 15 years ago when you parked it.

I hear you, but I when I start it up and check the scanmaster all number are within specs 15 years ago until now.
I guess I will do again the shop vac air into the tailpipe and hear for any leaks.
My question, being the blm is related to exhaust leaks, is it possible the triangle shape gasket underneath the turbo heading towards the engine can have an exhaust leak?

[Scoobum]

You say you have smoke at the base of the turbo. Did you yank the turbo off and install an RJC turbo flange gasket like I mentioned in reply 3. 

[gnonyx]

You say you have smoke at the base of the turbo. Did you yank the turbo off and install an RJC turbo flange gasket like I mentioned in reply 3.

I did read your reply on #3, and no I didn't replace it since the 1st time when I smoke the engine is when I found the ds header leaking, and found the crack. After welded the crack and installed back again is when the blm number was still high.
If there is one thing I learned on both of these great sites, you don't start to replace parts on a whim. If baby steps needs to be done then so be it. This is why I ask many questions as many input ideas or similar occurrence, for direction of solution.
Yes I did saw little smoke around the wastegate lever arm area, is this area called the turbo flange gasket?

[nocooler]

The gasket under the turbo the triangle one is key. Pretty much all of them leak a little at the bushing for the wastegate flapper. Once warm it should leak a little less. 

High BLMs are telling you the computer thinks there is an air leak in the system somewhere between the maf and the o2 sensor. Once the exhaust is sealed - reset the computer and then let it relearn and see where you are at. You've just got to keep at it and you'll find the cause of all your issues.