2003 k2500 6.0l

[TexasT]

Well, the daily has been acting up. It randomly goes into a limp mode and the check engine light comes on. I couldn't get my scanner to connect so I got my son to bring over his little Bluetooth thing and torque. It didn't hook up either. Found that the cig lighter and aldl are on the same circuit and fuse was blown. Non working cig lighter mystery solved.

Got the Bluetooth connected up and got five "codes". Two were lean codes, one for each bank. We attributed that to the limp mode. The other codes were for the tps. So I guess this drive by wire thing is showing its age.

I looked up some replacement parts on the rockauto but thought maybe someone has some experience with which goes bad or if I just need to spring for the pedal and engine parts.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2003,silverado+2500,6.0l+v8,1412121,electrical-switch+&+relay,adjustable+pedal+relay,19079
I think this is the pedal actuator.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2003,silverado+2500,6.0l+v8,1412121,fuel+&+air,throttle+position+sensor+(tps),5136
This appears to be the part that goes on the throttle body, or at least looks like what I on there.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2003,silverado+2500,6.0l+v8,1412121,fuel+&+air,throttle+control+actuator,6473
I also found this but I'm not even sure what it does.

Thanks for any ideas.

[Scoobum]

My 2010 2500 did the same thing. Checked on YouTube and the TPS is notorious for doing it. Swapped a new one in, and all's well.

[nocooler]

Did you check all the fuses under the hood? I had one pop and had to drive home a few miles in reduced power mode.

Log pedal position and tps in the scanner and see what it says. Should point you in the right direction.

[Pyro6]

Lean codes won't make it go into limp in mode. APP sensors at the gas pedal and the TPS sensors at the throttle body will

[TexasT]

Well, as luck would have it we cleared the codes so im not even sure what the numbers were. Looks like the part on the engine is riveted on. Looks like the rockauto replacement comes with bolts n nuts so that is good. I guess ill order up that and the pedal switch and make the swap.

Not even sure how to unplug the wiring. I guess I have to pry up the black part and slide the white part out then I guess there is some thing in there to pry ip or press down.

Thanks for the help!

[Pyro6]

White part slides out first, than press the black tab

[TexasT]

Cool thanks. I sprayed a bunch of electronic terminal cleaner into the back of those wires in hopes it would help. In my experience fooling with fragile brittle plastic usually ends with me replacing the end when it crumbles in my hand. One of the replacement pieces in rockauto appeared to come with an end so I guess I'm not the only one it happens to.

Thanks for all the help

On a side note the 4l60e trans over Haul is coming along. Didn't get any more done yet with this prob and son talked me into going to the track sat night. Ken W and several others were there. It was a good time.

[TexasT]

Alright, we managed to get the codes to set again. Being thanksgiving and all(Happy Thanksgiving everybody!) we ate first then went out to the parking lot(went to oldest apartment for the gathering) and plugged in the dongle. Got two codes P0120 and P2135 . These less me to the pedal and its sensor. It was somewhat high in its reading and seemed to jump as the pedal was actuated.  It is a 170k mile truck so I'm sure it has some wear.

Found this
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Pedal-Assembly-6-0L-V8-LQ4-15264643-15120405-OEM-Hummer-H2-2003-07-/302743038331?nav=SEARCH
And just the sensor. I'm a cheap @$$ but for about $20 extra the whole pedal assembly comes ready to bolt in. Other wise the sensor seems to be about $25(so my math aux, $15 extra) the hassle factor of drilling out the rivets and procuring the new fasteners. Seems like I will  spend some of the it moneys and get one.

Upside all the kids came so we all broke bread together, down side wife left and went to work the second shift tonight . Fun while it lasted.

I hope everyone is well on this holiday and stays safe during the holiday season!

[Pyro6]

All the ones I've done I replaced the entire pedal, especially at 170K

[TexasT]

Get the pedal figured out and it goes to pissing water out the water pump weep hole. I guess it is jealous of the attention the white truck is getting.
So do I need a special wrench to get the fan clutch off? Seems to be a 36mm flat piece of metal. Is is worth it to track down the snap on guy or just get one from the part store and try to make that work?

Water pump on order from rock auto. Broke the T out and drove it to work. Fresh off the bushing and pass side manifold work over. Smelled like burning paint as we broke in the grill paint o the manifold.

[TexasT]

https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Clutch-Wrench-Compatible-Mercedes-Benz/dp/B01GDXC4OM?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01GDXC4OM
Maybe something like this. Not sure what id need a 32mm for but things pop up. And it appears to be left hand thread. Any confirmation on that?

[nocooler]

Rich put a small c-clamp on the back side of the pulley to lock it in place and then use a pipe wrench. Pretty sure it’s left handed thread. Might have to smack it to bust it lose

[TexasT]

I will try that. I haven't really looked at it other that feeling under for a weep hole and drawing back a wet set of fingers. It appear some use an air hammer. I guess ill try to loosen it before taking the belt off. And hunt up a clamp or maybe a vise grip to hold it still.

On a side note I put the gauges on the ac in the T and it is holding the 40psi I put in it. I'm hoping to have it blowing cold this summer. Also making progress on the 4l60e for the white truck. The 3-4 clutches were pretty torn up.