Alky Kit ordered

[earlbrown]

Dude,....   that last post has damn near everything in it wrong (I think a couple of them were clerical mistakes though).   You started to pull it back, then lost it again at the very end.

[BoostedRPS]

Dude,....   that last post has damn near everything in it wrong (I think a couple of them were clerical mistakes though).   You started to pull it back, then lost it again at the very end.

My response in the other thread was what I meant.

What, specifically, was wrong? Genuinely curious now.


If I was wrong, I'd truly like to know why the AFR becomes fatter?

I'll delete that last response and past the other one.

EDIT:


Here is my other response. Everything I'm basing this off is from either the Kinsler catalog, or conversations with Kinsler's tech people...altho ugh the fuel rail analogies are more my own descriptions, but I'm not exactly thrilled with their wording, but I think it "works" for the point I was attempting to articulate.

...

If the return line and fuel pressure regulator are free-flowing and have little-to-no restriction through them, then the engine should theoretically not have a fatter AFR. If the fuel regulator or the return line is not able to freely move the volume of flow provided by the pump, that fuel is now restricted in its' movement, and begins to "back up" as it experiences a flow restriction. The fuel becomes stuck in the fuel rail and needs a place to go. The more it is stuck in the fuel rail and increases the backpressure/flow restriction, the more pressure builds in the fuel rail.High pressure fluid always wants to move to a low pressure environment, so when an injector opens up, providing a low pressure cavity/space for fuel to move through, the fuel that is backed up in the fuel rail tries its' best to make its' way into the injector and into the now low pressure space. Basically the fuel tries to force itself into the injector because it sees it as an available space to move to that has lower pressure and is not restrictive (unlike the fuel rail the fuel is currently in). This reason is why I always suggest people upgrade their fuel rails. NOT because aftermarket fuel rails can flow anymore fuel than the stock fuel rail, but because the aftermarket fuel rails allow you to use much larger fuel pressure regulators, which can flow way more fuel through them! A new high-volume fuel pressure regulator and a new high flow return line will help prevent any backpressure / flow restrictions in the fuel system, which also will aid in the longevity of the fuel pump and help to provide a more accurate fuel system as a whole.

[TexasT]

On the opposite side of this, if you aren't going to a pump that supplies fuel in excess of what the engine can use, the rail and regulator can flow you don't encounter this excessive restriction and resulting higher pressure. As pointed out some of the tech is aimed at race cars when most are just street cars and cruisers. Goes back to putting together a "system" of parts that work together. And the flood of money that could change hands once an individual start to do some upgrades and needs additional parts to make the "bigger, better, faster" stuff work on their car.

Not that it is bad to upgrade, just don't want to build a race car when you are just taking it out for frozen custard.

[phil_long]

WHOA!!! Came back to quite a bit of reading. Ok let me see what we can tackle here...


I have Eric's chip in my car right now but not his alcohol chip. I don't need the alcohol chip for what I'm trying to accomplish right now. Right now my issue is, no matter what my boost is at, my 02's will not cooperate in 3rd gear. Steve and a few others probably remember me discussing this some time back when my boost wouldn't go above a certain amount and I had to remove the factory boost control solenoid and switched to and RJC unit. Someone stated that my o2's should have been pig rich at WOT based on the programming of the chip and my boost being pegged at 10 lbs, but they weren't. My goal right now is to see if it's an octane issue, or just the narrow band not being nice to me and reading lean conditions when it might not be lean. Whatever the case may be, if I can't get the O2's up with the boost I'm running currently with an Alky kit, I have a problem...peri od. So instead of changing multiple things at once, I'll change one thing at a time.




I have a fuel pump and hotwire kit installed and the FP rises 1 to 1 as it should. My interest right now isnt to take "full advantage" of this alky kit, but to check and see what's going on with my o2's. Simple as that gents.

[Steve Wood]

You will be fine

[TexasT]

What/which fuel pump? Are you measuring with the meter a voltage amount similar to the battery and back of the alternator? When you make a run with the fuel gauge taped to the windshield is the pressure steady? New fuel filter? New O2 sensor?

Lot of things in play with a low O2 and it definitely needs sorted out. Good to do one thing at a time. Takes longer but unless you know you really don't know.

[phil_long]

I don't remember the part number for the fuel pump. I think I ordered it from Turbotweak. It was a walbro 255 lph or something. Let me scan some convos from the past and see if I can dig it up. I'm sure I probably made up that part number. 




I do want to upgrade my alternator though as it's pretty dated. I was looking at the ones for the 96 chevy impala. Give me a little extra for my sound system.

[phil_long]

The fuel filter was replaced when the fuel pump was replaced.

[Steve Wood]

The best test for the fuel system, I'm, is checking for correct pressure at boost. Be sure there are no cracks in the exhaust or leaks at the cross over pipe joints. Or, under the turbo

[TexasT]

No doubt on the header cracks. Look em over carefully. You really need a gauge to see about the fuel pressure. And a long strip of seldom travelled road for testing. Also a good place to try out tire and if you have one, air bag pressures for launching.

[phil_long]

I may have to check for leaks actually. That legit could be the culprit. Thanks....beca use for how lean the o2's read, the KR reflects otherwise.

[Steve Wood]

I may have to check for leaks actually. That legit could be the culprit. Thanks....beca use for how lean the o2's read, the KR reflects otherwise.

Some times, you have to lay under the car and stick your hand up around the back side of the headers and around the crossover connections to feel for hot air puffing out...or you can dribble something in the throttlebody and watch for smoke coming out of places where it should not be able to come out LOL

[phil_long]

The dribble in the TB sounds more likely for me. Lol. Carb cleaner maybe?

[Steve Wood]

something that makes smoke...top engine cleaner, marvel mystery oil, transmission fluid, or such...unplug the maf, pull the inlet pipe off the throttlebody,  stick a penny under the throttle lever to get a fast idle and slowly dribble the stuff into the tb..you don't want to kill the engine so don't go to fast.  Look for smoke coming out of all the wrong places

[phil_long]

that'll work! thanks steve. i got the alky kit installed yesterday. no tests yet though