Author Topic: T-Bolt Clamps  (Read 10576 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline gordyzx9r

  • Turbo Street Eliminator
  • ******
  • Posts: 1068
  • PSI: 0
  • The Sultan of Swank
    • View Profile
T-Bolt Clamps
« on: May 07 2018, 02:23:06 PM »
I went down a rabbit hole with t-bolt clamps...

Is any brand really better than any other?

Most of the sites say to measure inside diameter of the pipe to determine size, but when I read reviews people say that got them all screwed up and got the wrong sizes.

What's a good range of different sizes to have on hand?

Offline earlbrown

  • Turbo Street Eliminator
  • ******
  • Posts: 1571
  • PSI: 6
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #1 on: May 07 2018, 03:02:44 PM »
The problem with T-bolt clamps is their range of motion is nowhere near that of a worm clamp.   In other words, you have to get REALLY specific with the sizes.  You have to make sure the bolt doesn't bottom out before full clamping force is applied (and on the other side, being able to start the bolt in the first place).

To make it worse they usually size them based on the OD of the solid pipe plus the guesstimated thickness of the coupler.  For example a 3" clamp is actually around 3-1/4" in real life ID.

When I started doing my MAF pipes and custom up-pipes it was a nightmare to find sizes that actually work in real life.  ESP since a turbo bell is bigger than 3" much like an LT1 sensor.

Moral of the story, it takes multiple orders to get the size.   Even more if you hate a bunch of exposed threads when you tighten them down
'87 GN - 4.2L SFI Turbocharged innercooled V6 - Chrome valve covers - supra pump - 14" K&N - 52mm throttlebody - rocker shaft supports -  1/2 intake spacer - TB coolant bypass - 3" ATR exhaust tip - Alum intake pipe - NOS timing cover - chip - relocated charcoal canister - CR42's - stock

Offline nocooler

  • Administrator
  • Turbo Street Eliminator
  • ******
  • Posts: 1836
  • PSI: 3
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #2 on: May 07 2018, 05:16:34 PM »
https://www.racepartsolutions.com/ Is good to deal with on that stuff. They used to have a turbo Buick hose/clamp kit.
IhaveaV8

Offline TexasT

  • Legend in my own mind
  • Turbo Street Outlaw
  • *******
  • Posts: 2171
  • PSI: 1
  • So, This black car is fast?
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #3 on: May 07 2018, 06:19:01 PM »
I just ordered a bunch of them in similar sizes so I didn't have to pay shipping twice. Also have extras for that sun afternoon project.
Rich

"Goals without actions are just dreams."

Offline gordyzx9r

  • Turbo Street Eliminator
  • ******
  • Posts: 1068
  • PSI: 0
  • The Sultan of Swank
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #4 on: May 07 2018, 11:33:12 PM »
The problem with T-bolt clamps is their range of motion is nowhere near that of a worm clamp.   In other words, you have to get REALLY specific with the sizes.  You have to make sure the bolt doesn't bottom out before full clamping force is applied (and on the other side, being able to start the bolt in the first place).

To make it worse they usually size them based on the OD of the solid pipe plus the guesstimated thickness of the coupler.  For example a 3" clamp is actually around 3-1/4" in real life ID.

When I started doing my MAF pipes and custom up-pipes it was a nightmare to find sizes that actually work in real life.  ESP since a turbo bell is bigger than 3" much like an LT1 sensor.

Moral of the story, it takes multiple orders to get the size.   Even more if you hate a bunch of exposed threads when you tighten them down

Don't the worm clamps have issues with contraction though when things heat up/cool down?

Offline earlbrown

  • Turbo Street Eliminator
  • ******
  • Posts: 1571
  • PSI: 6
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #5 on: May 08 2018, 01:40:15 AM »
Worm clamps suck because it's VERY easy to overtighten them just a little too much and ruin them.

They do have a huge range of motion though.  A 3" worm clamp might have 3 inches of slots.  A T-bolt might have an inch.
'87 GN - 4.2L SFI Turbocharged innercooled V6 - Chrome valve covers - supra pump - 14" K&N - 52mm throttlebody - rocker shaft supports -  1/2 intake spacer - TB coolant bypass - 3" ATR exhaust tip - Alum intake pipe - NOS timing cover - chip - relocated charcoal canister - CR42's - stock

Offline daveismissing

  • Two Buicks- too little money$$
  • Turbo Street Outlaw
  • *******
  • Posts: 6517
  • PSI: 3
  • Two Buicks- too little money$$
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #6 on: May 08 2018, 01:53:42 PM »
Gordy may be on to something. Postulating and drawing imaginary diagrams :
While the bands are about the same material and length they loosen off the same when hot but the bolt on the
T-Band might lengthen reintroducing an offsetting tension?

Hey Mod: a dunce icon but no light bulb icon?
-Drain plug by Earl Brown, custom oil pan by Rich's Auto


Offline reality

  • Turbo Street Modified
  • *****
  • Posts: 546
  • PSI: 0
  • Boost n00b
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #8 on: May 08 2018, 02:20:13 PM »

Offline earlbrown

  • Turbo Street Eliminator
  • ******
  • Posts: 1571
  • PSI: 6
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #9 on: May 08 2018, 02:22:11 PM »
Gordy may be on to something. Postulating and drawing imaginary diagrams :
While the bands are about the same material and length they loosen off the same when hot but the bolt on the
T-Band might lengthen reintroducing an offsetting tension?

Hey Mod: a dunce icon but no light bulb icon?


this is the first I've heard of the backong off problem.    I really can't imagine there's much a change in clamping forse due to underhood heat...    but if there is, they'd get tighter.   Aluminum expands at twice the rate of steel.   If you have an aluminium MAF pipe/TB/intercooler outlet and a SS clamp on top of it, the inner peice will grow more than the clamp will.
'87 GN - 4.2L SFI Turbocharged innercooled V6 - Chrome valve covers - supra pump - 14" K&N - 52mm throttlebody - rocker shaft supports -  1/2 intake spacer - TB coolant bypass - 3" ATR exhaust tip - Alum intake pipe - NOS timing cover - chip - relocated charcoal canister - CR42's - stock

Offline gordyzx9r

  • Turbo Street Eliminator
  • ******
  • Posts: 1068
  • PSI: 0
  • The Sultan of Swank
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #10 on: May 08 2018, 10:11:46 PM »
These people seem to think the worm is better than the t-bolt.

https://www.amsperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Worm_Gear_Clamp.pdf


Offline motorhead

  • Turbo Street Outlaw
  • *******
  • Posts: 2267
  • PSI: 4
  • look at my balls... look at them!!!
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #11 on: May 09 2018, 07:55:01 AM »
eBay specials on my stuff.
>>>Das Instagram<<<
'80 LeMans Wagon|'87 Monte Carlo SS|'92 Camaro Z28|'07 TrailBlazer SS|'15 Colorado Z71|'19 Hellcat Widebooty M6

Offline good2win22

  • Turbo Street Outlaw
  • *******
  • Posts: 2019
  • PSI: 0
  • No man lives happily lest he remove the boredom
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #12 on: May 09 2018, 08:52:16 AM »
Amazon specials for my clamps
Jason

1966 Ford Ranch Wagon
1982 Jeep Wagoneer Limited
1986 Grand National BLK PHNX
1987 Turbo Regal Limited
2018 Ram 2500 Cummins

Offline Top Speed

  • Don't Tread on Me
  • Turbo Street Outlaw
  • *******
  • Posts: 2548
  • PSI: -2
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #13 on: May 09 2018, 10:20:00 AM »
I am at the point of, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.  I have all regular hose clamps that seem to be working pretty good at 25 psi!
Champion Irons w/T&D roller rockers, TA-61 turbo, 206/206 Comp Cam,  57 lb/hr Siemens Injectors, 3000 stall PTC, PTE Plenum w/RJC Power Plate, 70 mm Accufab Throttle Body, RJC 325 Megacooler, TurboTweak 5.7/ Alky Control w/M1 methanol, 23 psig on the street, Puddn' Power engine, Borla Exhaust

Chris

Offline gordyzx9r

  • Turbo Street Eliminator
  • ******
  • Posts: 1068
  • PSI: 0
  • The Sultan of Swank
    • View Profile
Re: T-Bolt Clamps
« Reply #14 on: May 09 2018, 11:41:16 AM »
I have a variety of different styles that came with the pipes, FMIC, etc.  and i just wanted to standardize them.

We blew off the up pipe on the dyno.  Luckily the hood was open so no war wounds.  When we tightend up the t-bolt clamp it snapped. 

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal