cam swap

[Steve Wood]

you use thread sealant on the end that screws in the block.  You use the thread lubricant on the end that the nut screws on to and yes, you use the lube on the washer and nut bottom

So, do people use thread lubricant and torque the head down to 80 or is that if you use oil instead of the lube....?  I think most go 80 with the lube but I am not sure about that

[Scoobum]

Run a tap through the heads. Clean the heads and block with brake kleen...and then with electrical contact cleaner. Install the studs with your favorite sealant. Lube the washers and the base of the nuts and torque the heads down in sequence. I go to 85 in three increments. 30-60-85. I recheck the next day.

[Shimy87]

Just what I did except my torque wrench only goes to 80

[larrym]

Borrow or rent a better torque wrench

[Forzfed]

you use thread sealant on the end that screws in the block.  You use the thread lubricant on the end that the nut screws on to and yes, you use the lube on the washer and nut bottom

So, do people use thread lubricant and torque the head down to 80 or is that if you use oil instead of the lube....?  I think most go 80 with the lube but I am not sure about that

Well said, Steve!  You don't want friction from metal on metal.  I just got off of night shift so I was only focused on sealant and not lube.

[Steve Wood]

It's a confusing subject.  people throw out numbers without specifying bolts, studs, oil for lube, ARP lube (which requires less torque than does oil), etc.

I remember carefully torquing chevy head bolts using Permatex Aviation sealant on the threads...bet that messed the number up!

I think using studs makes it a much easier task of getting even torque because  we are not dealing with the ease of threading bolts into the block with sealant on the end...and of course, we know that the fine threads on a stud makes it easier to get an easy clamp and we don't run nearly the chance of pulling threads up in the block surface...

[Scoobum]

Okay, I'll be more specific. I didn't wanna say this...but I use black RTV. It's the only one up here on the package that says oil and anifreeze resistant. There were huge fights on TBS about colour not making any difference...w hich is prolly correct. Let the fighting begin...but I'm not answering back. Oil I use is whatever Dan and I have laying around the shop...and I use ARP stud kits. I use electrical contact cleaner cuz I have it on good authority that brake kleen leaves a film.

[Steve Wood]

You are absolutely correct on the rtv. It's all made for different purposes

[motorhead]

Funny, I use Mopar brand non-chlorinated brake cleaner as a final step before I paint anything, before assembling parts which seal to a gasket or goop, and I also use it to clean before welding too.  I have never had any adhesion issues from surface contamination.

To each their own.

For sealing fasteners into water jackets I have always used pipe dope (or Teflon thread sealant), and a touch of oil under the head/washer for the important torque specs.

EDIT:  I meant to add that there is a really good and harmless way to chase threads in a block by using a stock head bolt with a couple of grooves cut in its threads to catch the trash.  Using a tap can be devastating to the threads, especially in an aluminum block.

[Steve Wood]

That's the reason they sell thread chaser traps

[TexasT]

Coat what ever with some grease to catch the chips.

I bought a set like these from summit years ago.
http://mrotools.com/2588-kastar-metric-thread-restorer-tap-6-piece-set.aspx?gclid=CPGghcqWsM4CFQ6IaQodpmkOSg

[Shimy87]

Update..got the old cam out and compaired to new...exhaust lobes are the same, intake is bigger on new cam and new timing chain is nice and snug. It appears that when the timing marks are in line cylinder 1 is at the top of the compression stroke??? Took alot of time marking tdc on the balancer but dont have that back on yet.

[Shimy87]

Ok got a question. Been way over thinking this as im very concerened that i get a good start up for cam break in. If cylinder one is at tdc and both valves are closed that is top of compression stroke....righ t??? Also to mark 25 degrees after tdc, facing the car I make amark on the balancer 1.45 inches to the right, or clockwise from my tdc mark?

Thanks for the help....my brain has spent way too much time going over and over this so now im second guessing too much

[Steve Wood]

no


http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm

[Shimy87]

Can you elaborate?