Author Topic: valve springs  (Read 22120 times)

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Offline motorhead

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #60 on: July 23 2016, 09:41:28 PM »
I bet you will find the best price on ARPs on Amazon.com; Summit will price match.  That is how I got the studs for my LS1.  Summit was mad.
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Offline Scoobum

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #61 on: July 24 2016, 08:18:31 AM »
If memory serves, this engine has a lifter tick. I'd be inspecting each lifter for abnormal wear.
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Offline larrym

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valve springs
« Reply #62 on: July 24 2016, 08:24:08 AM »
I totally agree with Brad pull each one at a time and make sure the go back in the same hole. Check the foot make sure it's not concave.
86 white T type with t tops and blackout trim. 60lb injectors Gen 2 with Extender Chip TR6 ignition 212/206 roller cam Turbonetics BB CPT 61 CAS V4 Intercooler Cobbled together Alky Injection 4 inch MAF pipe with integral sensor
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Re: valve springs
« Reply #63 on: July 24 2016, 09:19:26 AM »
Dan and I use an egg carton to keep the lifters in order...that way they go back in the same hole. :)
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Re: valve springs
« Reply #64 on: July 24 2016, 09:35:27 AM »
Watching Shimys threads on this engine...this is what I would have done. I would have pulled the engine and set it on a stand. Both heads woulda been pulled...skimm ed...valve guides inspected and a valve job done with new seals. There's been a complaint of a lifter tick...so I woulda gone with a CC 212/212 cam...TA lifters...or the highest quality Steve can recommend. TA may even have a cam and lifter kit. Remove and clean the pan and the oil pick up and swap in a new stock style timing chain set. Install new exhaust studs. There's been no complaint of blowby...so I'd call the rings good. The stock nylon cam button would be long gone...so a roller button would be required
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #65 on: July 24 2016, 10:39:17 AM »
$$$$$$ sounds great but not in the buget. I have thought about doing the timing chain as im this far in already.any advice there? I will check all lifters today.
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline larrym

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valve springs
« Reply #66 on: July 24 2016, 10:50:27 AM »
Chain is a good idea and the cam button like Brad mentioned
86 white T type with t tops and blackout trim. 60lb injectors Gen 2 with Extender Chip TR6 ignition 212/206 roller cam Turbonetics BB CPT 61 CAS V4 Intercooler Cobbled together Alky Injection 4 inch MAF pipe with integral sensor
2800 stall lots of fun with a little 6 banger!
Best ET 11.36

Offline TexasT

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Rich

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Offline Shimy87

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #68 on: July 24 2016, 09:29:38 PM »
Ok, heres my problem. Im just good enough with tools that I can get myself into trouble ( current situation case in point) So I'm stuck here with what to do. Brads suggestions are right in line with my thoughts. If I'm this deep into it, I probably should replace the timing chain, and if I'm that far, should I do a cam and lifters also?? Never don't either before, never watched anyone else do it so I'd be on my own...current screw up has me concerned I may be over my head...or maybe not?? The tick has bothered me since I got the car and I assume this would solve that issue, if I do it right. Probably need to do the timing chain as I plan to do 2-3 dragracing weekend a year, and I'm sure it still has the stock set-up. Car has 66000 miles on it now.

What should I do?? Lets hear your thought guys!!! One thing though, please reply with what you would do IF YOU WERE ME, its easy to key board advise do it all, try to keep it real.
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline TexasT

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #69 on: July 24 2016, 09:47:23 PM »
Definately a timing set.
If you want a new cam and lifters I say, jump on. Maybe something a little more aggressive, 206/206.
Rich

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Offline good2win22

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #70 on: July 24 2016, 10:19:19 PM »
One thing is for sure. Us car guys always want more after the fact
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Re: valve springs
« Reply #71 on: July 24 2016, 10:28:39 PM »
If it was me I'd rebuild the whole top end. Cheaper in the long run. I'd just hate to see you halfway do it then something else happens, you'll end up going through all this again.
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Offline motorhead

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #72 on: July 25 2016, 03:44:01 PM »
Roller cam, and roller cam button.

And Steve, I did reuse the same TTY bolts in my MCSS twice.  It went 116mph on the bottle and still held together.  I was going to use the engine as-is with the TT setup.  I miss being poor(er)... I cared less and did more.
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #73 on: July 25 2016, 03:48:54 PM »
Sorry, I did not know your MC was turbo's with three times the the normal combustion pressure of a stock n.a. engine.  I guess your experience is pertinent after all
« Last Edit: July 25 2016, 03:53:47 PM by Steve Wood »
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Offline Just a Six?

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Re: valve springs
« Reply #74 on: July 25 2016, 08:05:30 PM »
The cam & lifters are pretty straight forward to install (soaking clean & again in oil eats up a couple days)
& replacing the Intake Gasket is not a big deal. Just make sure to get a step by step off GNTTYPE.org
(I think they have one? someone has one?) Lots of Goop on the ends is a must.
Pretty hard to mess up the install as long as you take your time & double check all your work. Add an extra $100-$200 for odds & ends you will need as the job goes on. A torque wrench is a must!
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