Knock, Knock, Whos There? Help!

[Steve Wood]

some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it.   Amazing how durable these things can be.

[deathraider6996]

some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it.   Amazing how durable these things can be.

Theres no doubting that. 150k miles and my love for boosted driving didnt help the case. oh well, ill take this time to learn as much as i can. just got to make sure that i dont overwhelm myself and take my time.

[good2win22]

some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it.   Amazing how durable these things can be.

Theres no doubting that. 150k miles and my love for boosted driving didnt help the case. oh well, ill take this time to learn as much as i can. just got to make sure that i dont overwhelm myself and take my time.

If I had any advise to give it would be this.  Set some goals with the engine build for your desired outcome and stick with it. Then research, research research!  Get a notebook and write the stuff down.  You will forget.  You can go balls deep into your wallet if not.  Not all of the cool guy parts are needed.  The weak link in your build, mechanically speaking, will be your stock transmission depending on the power level that you initially set your goals for. Sometimes, stock power is enough to break your tranny.  Watch the big board, facebook and this site for stuff that people are selling.  You can save a fair amount of money buying second hand.  Buyer beware! There are reputable sellers and then there are some SOB's.  Shop all the vendors supporting our cars.  Some sell items lower than others.  Some have better customer service than others.  When you finally get it all together, start with the basics and always go back and check them.  Fuel pressure, O2 mv at idle, IAC counts at idle, TPS voltage, MAF at idle, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, voltage at the ecm and fuel pump.  Did I mention vacuum and exhaust leaks?  Last and probably the most important, everyone has an opinion on what's best.  Choose wisely who's information you decide to trust.

Good luck my friend!  It's going to be a fun ride!

[reality]

 Just going by his signature he is way beyond "stock" 

 OP
Just would like to ask -How did the suspension mods work for you? Got any 60ft times or 1/4 mile times etc.

[deathraider6996]

Just going by his signature he is way beyond "stock" 

 OP
Just would like to ask -How did the suspension mods work for you? Got any 60ft times or 1/4 mile times etc.

Not yet. It definitely feels a lot better.

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[deathraider6996]

some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it.   Amazing how durable these things can be.

Theres no doubting that. 150k miles and my love for boosted driving didnt help the case. oh well, ill take this time to learn as much as i can. just got to make sure that i dont overwhelm myself and take my time.

If I had any advise to give it would be this.  Set some goals with the engine build for your desired outcome and stick with it. Then research, research research!  Get a notebook and write the stuff down.  You will forget.  You can go balls deep into your wallet if not.  Not all of the cool guy parts are needed.  The weak link in your build, mechanically speaking, will be your stock transmission depending on the power level that you initially set your goals for. Sometimes, stock power is enough to break your tranny.  Watch the big board, facebook and this site for stuff that people are selling.  You can save a fair amount of money buying second hand.  Buyer beware! There are reputable sellers and then there are some SOB's.  Shop all the vendors supporting our cars.  Some sell items lower than others.  Some have better customer service than others.  When you finally get it all together, start with the basics and always go back and check them.  Fuel pressure, O2 mv at idle, IAC counts at idle, TPS voltage, MAF at idle, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, voltage at the ecm and fuel pump.  Did I mention vacuum and exhaust leaks?  Last and probably the most important, everyone has an opinion on what's best.  Choose wisely who's information you decide to trust.

Good luck my friend!  It's going to be a fun ride!

Trans is pretty built up. Same parts and builder as Jack dilorenzo. Thank you for your information!

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[deathraider6996]

Currently looking at cams. I don't think I'm ready to fork over the 900 dollars it's going to take to go with a roller setup. I'd like to go with a 210/215. Bison said "roller isn't really needed until you get into the 7-800hp range. I'm perfectly fine with installing a flat tappet then eventually going roller. I've already heard the stories of wiped lobes soon after install but there are some people that run flat tappet with no issues. Im tight with this build. I'm fine with taking a couple months to build but I really want it done by mid summer at the latest. Thoughts? Insight?

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[reality]

  Area under the curve! That's the fancy term.

On the track a hyd. cam might be just as quick as a roller but won't have the same feel as a roller. A roller has steeper ramps than a roller. IMO for a street car go roller and don't look back and it's not really $900 if you are buying a cam and lifters anyway. Consider where your motor spends most of it's time on the street =mid range.

Go roller and don't look back. imo.

[daveismissing]

some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it.   

One previous owner ? (wink)

[deathraider6996]

some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it.   

One previous owner ? (wink)

Lol at least two. 😉

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[larrym]

  Area under the curve! That's the fancy term.

On the track a hyd. cam might be just as quick as a roller but won't have the same feel as a roller. A roller has steeper ramps than a roller. IMO for a street car go roller and don't look back and it's not really $900 if you are buying a cam and lifters anyway. Consider where your motor spends most of it's time on the street =mid range.

Go roller and don't look back. imo.

I run a small roller cam just for piece of mind mine is a 206/212, a flat tappet will work just have to make sure you use an oil with lots zinc or a zinc additive.
I have 2 buddies that both run the off the self flat tappet 206/206 they are fresh builds and one of them is a certified tech very thorough, break in is very important. I like the roller for the fact that you fire it up warm it up back it out of the driveway and put some boost to it to seat the rings and your done. Firing it up and bringing it to 2500 rpm and holding it there watching the headers glow and praying it doesn't over heat while you are breaking in a flat tappet spooks me.

[reality]

Both links say pretty much the same thing "-more duration at higher lift with a roller="  To me this means much crisper response in normal driving. Mine is a 212/212 comp. previous cam was a L Connelley [tweaked]221/221 cam flat tappet. That cam sounded GREAT and made good HP but was fairly lazy as far as response.

http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/camshaft-tech-flat-tappet-vs-roller/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0307-basic-camshaft-info/

[TexasT]

Firing it up and bringing it to 2500 rpm and holding it there watching the headers glow and praying it doesn't over heat while you are breaking in a flat tappet spooks me.

That's the reward part of building an engine. Only made better when done with open headers after dark. Trust me your neighbors will luv ya. Hahaha.

[deathraider6996]

  Area under the curve! That's the fancy term.

On the track a hyd. cam might be just as quick as a roller but won't have the same feel as a roller. A roller has steeper ramps than a roller. IMO for a street car go roller and don't look back and it's not really $900 if you are buying a cam and lifters anyway. Consider where your motor spends most of it's time on the street =mid range.

Go roller and don't look back. imo.

The only issue I'm having is the cost. I'm looking at 500-600 for just the lifters, then the cam, head work, Springs if comp 980s aren't enough, and possibly pushrods. On top of all of this, I need block work, crank turned(if not a new one), pistons, and everything else that needs replaced when doing this kind of work.

Only kits that I can find are on taperformance. com and fullthrottlesp eed.com. If there are options that I am not aware of(which is definitely ppssible) I would really like to know where.

If I can't find a better priced alternative then I'm probably going to go with one of the kits offered on Gn1performance .com.

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[reality]

 Here is 1 option
https://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2398&gid=287