Steve...Got A Question For Ya'

[Scoobum]

Hang on...gotta compose myself for a second. Okay, I'm ready. How long do a set of head gaskets last on a stock 109 with 100,000 miles on it driven and raced at WOT in the 1/4 with a water temperature of 240 degrees...

[good2win22]

I'll bite... Till they pop?

[Steve Wood]

3/16 of a mile

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk

[Scoobum]

He said the engine smells hot...

[good2win22]

That's not right... It's gotta get to at least 245-250 before it should smell hot

[nocooler]

The original gaskets or replacements?

[Steve Wood]

Several things can make it smell hot at lower temperatures than that

Check the coolant for exhaust gas contamination.

Why is it getting hot?  Does it only do it under boost or is his radiator clogged or thermostat not opening properly?

[Scoobum]

Rad was original and was clogged silly. It was replaced...alo ng with a new water pump. The vacuum lines are a mess...and it has an obvious exhaust leak. Compression numbers vary from 130-150. Engine is out. The plan is to put a pair of freshened stock heads I have from Joe...with new 981's on it...along with a new timing chain and gears. I'm gonna check the lifters on it tomorrow...and then go from there...and get back to you guys with an update.

It has a new fuel pump and hotwire kit...new injectors and chip from Eric...AFPR... RJC downpipe...SM.

Engine is original.

[good2win22]

If you need some stock parts, gimme a shout. I'm dumping the internals on the barn motor and going forged.  I shave some stock heads as well as a stock cam.  I thought this was a joke thread... My bad

[Scoobum]

Thanks Jason. For peace of mind I'd go with forged pistons...at the very least. Make sure you have everything magnufluxed. If you see so much as a heat crack...toss the part and grab another. When I hand Joe an engine I give him several extra rods and an extra crank.

Magnufluxing is cheap. When I was apprenticing I could check a crank and a set of rods in about 10 minutes. It's done with black light...and a mixture of Varsol and metal shavings. When the part is magnetized the cracks show up as yellow lines under black light.

Blocks would be checked with a large hand held electro-magnet. I'd sprinkle metal shavings between the magnets...and if there was a crack the shavings would be drawn into it. Magnafluxing is cheap insurance...an d is likely the reason I haven't broken any internals to date.

[good2win22]

Also have the balanced/polished stock rods, trw forged Pistons .030 over, stock crank.  Bunch of stuff. Really I should make a list but that would take me away from other projects. 


I've done some NDI before. I use the developer from a dye penetrant kit to find leaks. Works great. We do a lot of eddy current looking for cracks on aircraft.

[Scoobum]

I'm reusing the TRW .030 overs and the balanced rotating assembly from the block I cracked a year and a half ago. One piston was damaged...so I grabbed a new one. I found a std bore block from a local...and Joe is gonna bore/hone it to fit the balanced rotating assembly. Gonna keep it as a spare engine.

[Scoobum]

Update. Cylinder walls have zero taper. One lifter is 'hollowed' out on the foot...so the cam is gone. Some metal grit on the pickup screen and in the pan...but no gray bearing material or copper. Timing chain has a fair amount of slack in it. Gonna check the bearings on it tomorrow and the end play. Customer says he plans on keeping the car for life. Gonna speak to Joe tonite about freshening up the short block and doing the timing cover mods.

[Steve Wood]

sounds like a good candidate for freshening up!

[Scoobum]

sounds like a good candidate for freshening up!

Rings and bearings and back into service. Steve...sugges tion for a cam? Stock heads, turbo, convertor and actuator.