Repair or Rebuild Stock Transmisssion

[gusszgs]

Good info guys 


Rich, did you just press in the new stator and go? Or did you have to "square" it?

[TexasT]

I just pressed it in and went with it. I understand the turbobuick sticky and I guess it might be needed, but I'm getting good pressures so I didn't worry about it.
I think the factory didn't do that much or if they did it was part of the manufacturing process. I think if the flat side of the pump is flat and the pocket is in good condition you should be ok. I'm not building for hhe 10s though so maybe it would if I were. Getting the boost valve, rev boost valve and the spring are important to get pressure up. And getting the direct clutches and the band clearances are more important.

[TexasT]

I searched up the tci, b&m, level 10 shift "kit" instructions to see what they were about. Reading the jakeshoe posts on websites also provided info. I settled on different size holes(smaller) for the vb plate. I did some different springs in the accumulators to get snappier shifts. But I am using an AA code Cadillac vb/gov combo. I would block or pit the 700 return spring in the line bias and move the line bias spring to the accumulator in the vb . I didn't buy a packaged "shift kit". I just pieced together springs n valves after reading the info and formulating my plan.

To give you an idea of the research I did I went back to the beginning of turbobuick.com on the wayback machine website and read every post and replay to current when I was putting the trans together. There is a LOT of info out there. Much of it contradicts itself and some is just wrong from my experience. Others are just trying to sell you things. The 10 and 13 vane pump is to me a waste of money, though I do think you need the hard rings and a stiff sonnax slide spring. If your rotor and vanes are in good shape as mine were I'd put it back together fill it with trans assembly lube to help it prime and run it. This is obviously my opinion and I'm not a guru. I hope I don't step on anyone's toes who feel they need more vanes in their pump. I just feel it puts more pieces in, takes up more space and reduces the pump volume.

Same goes for some of the expense of some of the bearings and machine work needed to get them in. Just like a main or rod bearing, as long as the fluid temp is kept in check and it has the hydraulic wedge, the plastic washers should be fine. I'm not busting down tens either so I'm sure there are some who need them I just don't think it is me at this time.

[bryes]

Thanks TexasT, as always I appreciate your input. I did go with the plan of putting the trans back together as is.  This just worked out with my schedule better because I didn't have to wait on the parts. Also I liked the way my trans shifted before, so I didn't really want to change it.

In the end The complete list of things that I replaced were:
Stator shaft, new hardened unit
Bearing in the pump
Valve body and accumulator gaskets
Pump gasket and O-ring.
Servo exterior O-ring
"Mickey Mouse" Washer (The thing nylon thrust washer that goes on the back of the pump).
Pan gasket and filter
Trans fluid

All my frictions seemed good, Vince Janis took a look and said that, since the writing on the frictions was still easily readable, they were not significantly worn. So I cleaned the heck out of everything, using detergent on the external case and gasoline for the internals of the case and anything I took out of it.

I spent probably at least 2 hours scraping the gasket off the separator plate for the valve body. It was a real big pita, I was hating myself and that stupid thing after about an hour of scraping with a razor. I think if I would do it over again, I'd go at it with the DA sander and some 80 grit or something.

Here is the pump halves all cleaned and ready to go, new hardened stator shaft and bearing installed.

[TexasT]

Great to hear it is working out for you. Any mods other than what you listed? Vb mods or springs?

[bryes]

Another lesson learned was that I think an assembly/ rebuild  manual would be highly worthwhile. Without it I made several mistakes that made assembly a real pain. First off, I assembled the servo into the case about 2 steps too soon and it made getting the frictions aligned and the center support in properly almost impossible.

And about those frictions.... I don't know what the proper way to do it, but getting all the frictions, and the components that engage with the frictions, aligned and into the case properly was very very difficult. I would try aligning everything outside the case but the moment you touch a friction or steel separator it screws everything up. I found that putting the case vertically, and just twisting the parts  was about the only way to get things to engage with the frictions. I bet it took another couple of hours to get everything to line up properly and I bet I tried about 10 different times before I was able to get the center support in properly. I'm not sure there is much on the net about how to assemble a 200 4r, but I'm sure I did it about the dumbest way possible. Somehow I got it back together

Below is a picture of the center support puller I used, REPEATEDLY. And the brains of the whole operation.

[TexasT]

I think you are way ahead of me with the lift. And a helper dog, mine never helps me. Haha. And with v Janis being from Akron, well I was born in Akron. We lived at Canal Fulton for the first few years of my life.

Be sure to check clearance and function of the servo. I used air pressure on the pan rail exhaust to activate the servo.

[bryes]

Finally, after getting everything back in the trans went very smoothly into the car! It's so easy with a lift, months back my transmission jack got stolen, so I had to put the trans on a cart and just lower the car to the trans a little at a time. It took a little more time without a trans jack, but so much better than doing it on the ground!

I finished everything up about two sundays ago and have driven the car about 200 miles since. With the torque converter working properly, now the cars low end seems 100% better. Before I couldn't build any boost when brake torqueing. My first time out, I tried brake torqueing and wound up doing a mini burnout in my driveway! My tires are crappy but with the hydroboost I have held about 5 psi before spinning. I might be able to do more if I really tried, not sure.

Everything seems fine now,  although I will say the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts don't seem as snappy as they were before.  To answer your question Texas T, I didn't do a single modification. Didn't drill the pump or anything. Maybe I would in retrospect because now the shifting isn't as harsh as before, but it's OK with me as I am just about stock.


All told I paid about $200 for the repair plus transmission fluid. 60 for the stator, 40 for the seals, and bearings from Janis. I think the mickey mouse was 28 from dave husek, they are discontinued now and hard to get so I bought 2. The D5 I bought locally for 50,  and spent maybe 10 bucks on detergent and gasoline for cleaning.

Overall it was a good, fun project and I'd definitely do it again... This time with a manual though.

[bryes]

Oh yeah, I did check the servo operation as well as the OD piston and another "check" I saw on  YouTube with air pressure. Never hooked up any gauges though

[bryes]

Wow canal Fulton, right down the street. We had a field trip there in fifth grade but I got booted so guess I've only driven through. I keep trying to find work here but can't seem to without taking a huge pay cut. I'll likely have to leave permanently. I live in Medina county actually.

[gusszgs]

Thanks TexasT, as always I appreciate your input. I did go with the plan of putting the trans back together as is.  This just worked out with my schedule better because I didn't have to wait on the parts. Also I liked the way my trans shifted before, so I didn't really want to change it.

In the end The complete list of things that I replaced were:
Stator shaft, new hardened unit
Bearing in the pump
Valve body and accumulator gaskets
Pump gasket and O-ring.
Servo exterior O-ring
"Mickey Mouse" Washer (The thing nylon thrust washer that goes on the back of the pump).
Pan gasket and filter
Trans fluid

All my frictions seemed good, Vince Janis took a look and said that, since the writing on the frictions was still easily readable, they were not significantly worn. So I cleaned the heck out of everything, using detergent on the external case and gasoline for the internals of the case and anything I took out of it.

I spent probably at least 2 hours scraping the gasket off the separator plate for the valve body. It was a real big pita, I was hating myself and that stupid thing after about an hour of scraping with a razor. I think if I would do it over again, I'd go at it with the DA sander and some 80 grit or something.

Here is the pump halves all cleaned and ready to go, new hardened stator shaft and bearing installed.

Bearing? Am I missing sum'n or did you mean bushing....... in the stator tube?

[bryes]

It's probably more accurately described as a bushing I think, the one I was referring to I pressed into the pump half. I think maybe it supported the stator tube but I'm not 100% sure now that it's back in the car. The hardened  stator support tube came with a bushing already installed.

[TexasT]

It supports the snout of the torque converter. I was advised to get the Teflon coated one and use locktite and/or stake it in so it doesn't move.