Barn motor ideas...

[Steve Wood]

for the effort required, I think I would build a TA block or pick up a Stage block and get some real beef around the rotating assembly

[good2win22]

for the effort required, I think I would build a TA block or pick up a Stage block and get some real beef around the rotating assembly

I agree Steve. Can I get a mulligan?  Only thing else I could've done to this block would be to girdle it and the added machine shop costs along with the rotating assembly and custom slugs would have put me into the price range of a stage block.

[good2win22]

Heads, intake, timing cover, SFI balancer and crank sensor installed. 8.5 pushrods worked perfectly.  If I did my math correctly, and there was quite a bit of recalculating, final static compression should be 9.28 to 1

[larrym]

Wish I had a Barn motor like that!

[motorhead]

Was there a sale on blue tape?

[Scoobum]

Looks good! Gonna be a killer engine!

[good2win22]

Was there a sale on blue tape?

LOL!  Just trying to keep things clean

[motorhead]

I love that your engine is painted the exact inverse of the LS2 in our TBSS, our top end is detailed in black/grey and the lower is raw aluminum.  Kinda wish I had just clear coated the intake because every nick and scratch on the grey shows.

[TexasT]

So, can we get a recap of what went in?

I'm seeing the aluminum heads so the TA heads went on. Port match, bowl clean up, other mods?

I'm guessing you went with the charlief1 roller cam?

You went fancy recip. Is this a stroker? Total cubes? Whos stuff? Pistons?

Maybe this is all secret.

Looking forward to you "bustin' it off" and takin her to the track.

[good2win22]

So, can we get a recap of what went in?

I'm seeing the aluminum heads so the TA heads went on. Port match, bowl clean up, other mods?

I'm guessing you went with the charlief1 roller cam?

You went fancy recip. Is this a stroker? Total cubes? Whos stuff? Pistons?

Maybe this is all secret.

Looking forward to you "bustin' it off" and takin her to the track.

TA heads bowl cleaned up and port match. TA 1.55 roller rockers, Morel roller lifters.
Got the cam from Charlie. 210/214
Not a stroker. Eagle crank, Molner rods, CP pistons custom ordered.  Block is stock bored .030
TA timing cover. SFI balancer and have an SFI flex plate on the way
Felpro gaskets throughout
Stock intake ported by champion.


Still have a few items to get as well as pick up the tranny from Jake when he's done with it.

[TexasT]

Just wondering, if you bought pistons anyway was there a reason you didn't go with a stroke crank/rods?

Cubes make power.

[good2win22]

To be honest Rich, stroking the thing never crossed my mind in the beginning.  Lots of folks have asked, especially the people selling me the crank and rods, but the additional machine work and then to weaken the center section for clearance, just didn't sell me. Just my thoughts and like Steve already mentioned, should've just gotten a stage or TA block to begin with

[TexasT]

Not to worry. With high hp Buick engines there is usually a second and third chance if you stay with Buick power and run it hard.

I was just wondering. I'm sure your little 235 will do plenty well. If I had the money I'd being doing up my 4.1. I'm living vicariously though you and others who do instead of just dream like me. And you are doing a GREAT job. Keep up the good work.

[Steve Wood]

Stage and TA blocks bring their own problems...Sta ge One vs Stage Two, even fire, odd fire, uncommon oiling systems, parts availability, cost, etc.  Unquestionably, they are stronger and were built for abuse and high rpm.  The additional head bolts are really nice.

My gut feeling is that the 3.8 block is a safer choice than the 4.1 once one is into the tens.  This is based upon experience and not science.  I think the 3.8 will make the same hp because it will accommodate a bit more boost time and again without splitting.

Spending money on forged cranks, good rods, and lightweight pistons will allow one to approach 6000 rpm a lot of times without tossing something.  Lightweight pistons usually have their own problems arising from the need to use more cylinderwall clearance due to the piston alloy growth with heat.  This rounds off the rings fairly quickly so it may be better to use a heavier, low growth piston for a driver.  Also makes it more important to keep it under six thousand, imo.

I tend to think girdles are not worth the effort on a well built engine.  I suspect many will disagree with me on this.

It's my opinion that high quality machine work and a really good fuel system are the two most important things in achieving long life in a strong street engine.  Steel caps are rally a good investment IF the machine shop understands they don't just bolt on, followed by an align bore/hone.

18 degs of timing will make almost as much power as 24 degs of timing but will make an engine more linear in its approach to the detonation line.

Building an engine with nine second rotating parts will make one that is much more fun to drive in the tens for a much longer time.  As pointed out above, there are not that many cars that will run 10.5 and even fewer that will do it every week end.

[TexasT]

I will agree about the steel caps. I'm cheap so I'll just do the middle two. This along with a forged crank will hope fully keep that turning and not flexing.

It is my belief that the stock crank flexes a lot. Then with the stock caps letting it get out of shape bad things just happen, then add in the detonation which really gets the crank out of shape. Next thing ya know, something is flying out the side of the block providing ventilation no one wants.

No amount of studs, rod bolts or fancy rods can make up for a forged crank and billet caps to keep it in line.

I have to concur with the need of a fuel system. Without that detonation WILL get the best of any setup.

I know Jason will have the fuel sorted out. And he has the forged and billet stuff in there. I still think with his suspension setup it is gonna be one wicked street car. Just have to turn up the wick and let her eat.