won't start after front seal repair

[Steve Wood]

second picture down shows the adapter with the in and out connections.  This is what the filter screws onto.   http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/frontcover.htm  Third picture down shows in and out.

Sounds like it has been removed by a prior owner.

You can fill the filter with oil and reinstall it.  Then remove the cam sensor and rig a tool, if you don't have a primer, and spin the pump drive with a drill and see if you can convince it to prime.  I have forgotten which way the pump needs to be turned...seems like it is counter clockwise but Earl or someone can tell you for sure...or maybe they did in one of the posts above.

You need to get some oil pressure before you crank on it anymore cause trying to start it dry is not a good idea

[poppy1440]

Update,
I will prime the pump b4 I move forward.
My ignition and coil modules and crank sensors all have lifetime warranties to I exchanged them out today just to eliminate some variables. 


I am also going to see whats going on with dash lights.


I also got a new set of plugs because mine are soaking wet with gas and appear to be filed out.

[Steve Wood]

glad you got the new plugs...More than once, I have seen plugs that have no fire be that way because they were wet and carrying the spark down the insulator instead of across the gap.

[ULYCYC]

I would not replace the module/ coil if it worked fine before you change the seal. The more parts you change the more possible problems you introduce to your no-start condition.  Back up and go over what you disturbed during your R&R of the seal. Leave on all parts that worked BEFORE your started tearing it apart.  I would go back and start from scratch and set the timing THEN setup the cam sensor.

[poppy1440]

ULYCYC   you are 100% correct I didn't think about that but I have already exchanged the parts yesterday.  I just have to hope I got good parts.

[Steve Wood]

If you had no spark because the plugs were wet,  you will have spares!

BTW,  check the ecm-sol fuse also

[Pyro6]

glad you got the new plugs...More than once, I have seen plugs that have no fire be that way because they were wet and carrying the spark down the insulator instead of across the gap.

When I was young and dumb, I would do road calls. I used to pull the plugs, torch and heat the gas off, throw em back in and usually the car would start right up. If the plugs were hard to get to I would try for 3/4's of em anyway.

[poppy1440]

Update

I pulled the plugs and they were filed out terribly and were full of gas.   
Replaced coil pack and module.
Removed crank sensor to install new sensor and noticed that there is damage present on old sensor.  Apparently it was damaged when I put it back on originally.  I kept trying to adjust it but I didn't remove it to inspect it.
Primed oil pump.   It took a lot more time than I thought it would take.  I had to run the cordless drill approx. 5-8 minutes before it would prime. But when It did prime I could really tell the difference in the sound of drill. Then I used a regular screw driver and turned by hand just to check and it doesn't just free wheel it has pressure on it.

I have a two questions

1.   I have a after market oil pressure gauge and I had someone watch the gauge and it never showed oil pressure or moved while spinning the drill even when primed.
      I didn't have the key on or anything because I have my gas lines off to get to the bolt that holds the cam sensor down.
      The copper line is connected to the oil pump and to the gauge.   Shouldn't this gauge show oil pressure or at least move when primed even though the key is off because   the only wire that is connected to it is for the back light. 

2.   Although I'm running aftermarket gauge can I still connect the factory oil pressure switch so the dash light will come on in case of a problem with the oil pressure.   It still has a place to connect the original but I don't think it wasn't connected previously.

Tomorrow I plan to make sure I get cylinder #1 on the compression stroke then go  to 25atdc, install the cam sensor, set it with my caspers cam sensor tool following the instructions.

Properly install the crank sensor and use plastic from coke bottle to adjust it.

spin engine over a few times with the sparks plugs out to dry out cylinders.  Re-install plugs & wires,  Reconnect my orange ecm wire and I feel very confident the car will start.

 
Just for information.  Did ya'll know that these cars will run and run well with the coil wires installed backwards.  I'm glad you asked how I no this.  what I mean by this is when I went to remove my ignition the 1-5-3 was pointing towards the front of the car and the 2-6-4 was towards the firewall.  And apparently it has been like this far approx. 3 years with absolutely no issues.

My theory is It  ran like this because of the way the coil was wired to the module.  It was wired backwards also. Lol

I started not to tell ya'll about this because I know ya'll are saying this guy is kinda crazy but oh well I learn something every time I tear something up.   I am just grateful for you guys being here to help people like myself.   Thank ya'll so muck.

I'm acting like the car is already running.  lol

[Steve Wood]

If the gauge did not show oil pressure, it ain't primed!

On the coil....one coil pack is cylinders 1 and 4.  It does not matter if 4 is connected to 1 and 1 is connected to 4 on the plugs.  They both fire at the same time so it does not matter if the coil is on backwards, or not...assuming the module was connected properly.  I have seen this quite a few times.

[earlbrown]

If your gauge has a physical oil hose ran to it, it will show pressure no matter what.   If it's an electrical gauge with only wires running to it, the gauge has to be powered up.

[poppy1440]

It sure felt like it was primed.
The drill loaded up was clicking because i had the torque set on it to make sure i didn't break the tooth on cam gear.
Plus I used a screwdriver to check and it definitely has tension on the shaft now.
but I will go back and keep turning it until I get the guage to move if you think that's what a should do

[Steve Wood]

definitely...i f it does not show pressure on the gauge, oil is not circulating

[gnonyx]

definitely...i f it does not show pressure on the gauge, oil is not circulating

I know it sounds like a repeat, but can you describe to us your step by step of your procedure of priming the oil pump
It doesn't sound right since you are claiming you feel the cordless drill had some back pressure, yet there is nothing showing on the oil pressure gauge. Do you know for sure that oil pressure gauge is working?

[Steve Wood]

Lock the clutch on the drill and turn the pump

[TexasT]

keep turning it until I get the guage to move if you think that's what a should do

I'd like to second or third the go and turn that drill until it makes pressure. You might need a larger drill to make it work. I like my Milwaukee hole shooter. It has plenty of power for this and mixing tile adhesive and grout.
With out the prime the engine could run without oil and then you will be in for a lot of extras work not to mention the money.