won't start after front seal repair

[278CIKILLER]

When you put the cam sensor in, Then the cap back on then hook up the cam sensor tool did you turn the cap towards the passenger fender un till the light goes out then turn it back just untill the light comes back on?

[earlbrown]

I didn't say you didn't need to prime it..   I said you didn't have to take it apart and pack it with Vaseline.    Since you've been cranking on it, does the oil light go out  (assuming it still works KOEO)?

Also, on your crank sensor, do you have the relucter ring in the correct slot?

[poppy1440]

Sorry for mis quoting you Mr. Brown.
I have it in the slot closest to the reluctor wheel and farthest from the plug.
I'll check to see if the oil light goes off when I get off.
I also bought a noid light today,  so I'll check the injectors also

[poppy1440]

I checked and oil light does not come on.
one thing also the check enginge light doesn't come on when the key is first turned on.


I used the noid light and it does flash when attempting to crank.

[Steve Wood]

Does it have an oil light, or did you install a gauge in that spot?  If you have a gauge, does it show pressure when cranking?  I would probably disconnect the outlet line to the oil coooler and pour oil back down it into the oil pump.

The crank sensor appears good to me.

The car will not start if the check engine light is not coming on. The light gets its power straight from the battery...does not go thru a fuse.  Do you have a spare ecm to swap into the car?

[poppy1440]

Yes, the car does have an aftermarket oil pressure guage and it does not show any pressure on the guage when attempting to crank.
I followed the no start trouble shooting guide on your site and followed the instruction for no check engine light. The ecm fuse is good and I have voltage on ckt 339 & 440.
I thouroughly checked the wires in the harness and swapped out ecm and also swapped another tt chip version 5.6.




What can I be over looking?


Are you speaking of the line that goes into the turbo from the T on the oil pump.




I wonder why the check engine light is not coming on.

[gnonyx]

ok I checked a few more things.
1.  I reset the cam sensor.  I made sure it was at 25 atdc and then used the cam sensor tool to reset it.
2.  I used a playing card and cut it long ways about a 1/4 inch wide and placed it on each side of re-luctor wheel inside the crank
     sensor.  The reluctor wheel goes freely thru the sensor with very little if any contact.
3.  I checked all the fuses.
4.  The fuel pump is priming to 40psi.
5.   Key on I have over 11 volts on the green wire that goes to crank sensor.  unplugged


One thing I did not mention is that I just got my ecm back from eric at turbo tweak who made some repairs to my power logger.

I thought I would throw that in because I stated earlier that the only thing I had done was change front seal.
But he assured me that all is well with the ecm and chip.   

Next I plan to text the crank sensor itself.

After reading your problem all over again it seems you mention that got your ecm back from eric at turbo tweak who made some repairs to the power logger.
maybe you can look and see if the chip is secure onto the chip socket, or like Steve mention replace the ECM with another since it seems you have done almost everything.
 

[poppy1440]

I tried another ecm and chip


I'm going to check the bulb in the dash tomorrow to make sure the SES bulb isn't blown because when following the no start trouble shooter I am going the route when the light doesn't come on.  If the bulb is blown I am taking the wrong route on the trouble shooter.




Question,   Can I assume the crank sensor is adjusted properly since the Noid Light came on while trying to crank. 
I am still not getting spark but the injectors are pulsing.

[Steve Wood]

Did you check both fuses?  The ecm-ign fuse and the ccci fuse?  Both have to be good.

If you ground the A5 wire at the ecm, the check engine light should come on.  Grounding that wire completes the circuit thru the bulb if the key is ON.  If you changed the computers, it would seem that the problem is in the bulb or the bulb socket....neve r tried to start one without a working bulb so I don't know what happens.

I have said several times that I see no evidence of the crank sensor being bad because you cannot get an injector pulse if the crank sensor is not working.  Having said that, I can only give that 99% certainty because I have seem some strange things on these cars that do not compute.

If there is no spark, but you have injector pulse, then it should be the ignition module....but it could also be a connection to the module so I would remove the plug to the module and check the pins to be sure one is not pushed back.  I kinda doubt that because the module seems to be getting the signal from the crank sensor as it is allowing the injectors to be pulsed.

So that brings up the question if you have a different ignition module/coil that you could swap on to see what happens.

[Steve Wood]

OH, and I would not try to start it until the oil pump is primed.

There are two hoses that come out of the oil cooler adapter that is behind the oil filter.  One brings oil from the pump to the oil cooler built into the radiator and the other hose brings oil back from the cooler in the radiator back to the adaptor where it goes onward into the engine.  If you unscrew the hose going out of the adapter to the radiator cooler and the radiator end, you can pour oil down this hose and it will go back into the oil pump cavity and prime the pump...when the hose won't take any more oil, reconnect it to the radiator.

If you took the adaptor off at some point, the only sure way I know to prime the pump is to pack it with vaseline.  these pumps are too far from the oil in the pan and don't like to prime themselves when the engine starts

[gnonyx]

 I did the same oil primer thing as Steve mention with the following:
First and most important disconnect the orange wire behind the battery, and you must have an oil pressure gauge in order to make sure you do built up oil pressure before you reconnect the orange wire for start up.
 
 I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
 I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in oil pan , then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler hose is in the vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION”, and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back onto the radiator; set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction. Don't forget to connect the orange wire behind the battery
 
 http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653
 
 And it you don't have a Casper Cam Sensor Tool then you use this read up.
 http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm
 

[GavinHunyady]

If you didnt have an oil pressure gauge, couldnt you pin out the oil pressure switch with a DVM to check open vs. ground while you prime the pump?

[earlbrown]

You don't have to have a gauge when priming an engine with a drill motor.   You can't miss the 'hit' when the pump gets loaded.

[GavinHunyady]

good point!
 
around 6:30 you can hear the 1/2" drive electric impact in this video working pretty hard to run the pump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1I_9854y_o&list=UUmtNb4VMnSXVbauJ4Dfn96w

[poppy1440]

i could not find the oil lines that you mentioned.


Mine has a Tee and one line goes to the oil pressure guage inside car. One goes to the turbo and one goes to the engine block.  I couldn't find any lines going to the radiator from this area.