it lives!

[larrym]

No leaks good oil pressure I'm stoked!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSNNh2HW1uI&feature=youtu.be

[good2win22]

Glad it lives! I like the red hoses

[Scoobum]

Congrats! Let the beatings begin!

[Steve Wood]

Looks good, sounds good, you did good!

[larrym]

Thanks gents, I know its going to rain for a month now.....


Hope it performs like I planned here is what I put together.


Its an old NA standard bore block picked up the complete motor for 150 bucks had it machined locally by a guy that has done a few of these that seem to be strong and holding together.


TA forged crank externally balanced standard/standard picked it up for 500 bucks polished and good to go.
Stock 2 dot rods out of the NA motor 20 over diamond pistons 250 bucks.
I fit the rings and assembled it myself, picked up a set of heads for $100 disassembled them for porting and found Ferrea valves and bronze guides called the guy I got the heads from to let him know they were not stock he asked if I wanted my money back I said no but I felt I should give him an extra 100 for the valves.
Hogged the heads out port matched the heads and intake had the heads reworked new guides and springs comp 941, bolted on with RJC gaskets with the heads decked and these gaskets I hope to bump the compression a bit.


The front cover was on my existing motor it was set up well with Earls mods I always had great oil pressure. The roller cam was reused too 212/206 comp.


I'm hoping its a beast 

[larrym]

Well I'm a little deflated    I probably should have picked up on this when I was assembling the motor.


Its a forged crank did my initial fire up took it out and my knock sensor lite up, brought it back checked for loose accessory's found some stuff on my intercooler that I fixed went out again same thing.
My knock gauge showed knock bliping the throttle in neutral.
Listened to it closely and heard some knock at idle grabbed my stethoscope nothing up top front cover was good put it on the pan crap....Droppe d the oil and found some sparkles.


Yanked it yesterday crank and bearings look brand new last night at first glance.


Its a forged crank no rolled fillets  my the bearings are the wide ones apparently would this be enough to cause the knock?


Should I be looking at wrist pins?

[Scoobum]

Tight on the sides...and loose in the middle...or am I seeing things? When I resized rods I'd do two at a time on the Sunnen rod machine...beca use one at a time would 'wobble'. Two at a time makes them dead even across the entire surface. There's a thread on the other board about wide/narrow bearings...che ck it out on page 3 of the engine section. Maybe Earl or the others could shed some light on this.

[larrym]

6-7120CH is what I was given for the rods should have used CB1228P?

The crank looks pristine only had maybe an hour of run time.

[Joe Buick]

Larry what were the clearances?
Maybe next time try to stick with Clevite...I prefer them.

[larrym]

The mains were set up at .015 the rods were       .018
It spends 90% of its life cruising take it to the track 3 or 4 times a year.

[larrym]

I don't think it was the clearances it was the width I should have ran the narrow bearing on this crank.

[Joe Buick]

I use narrow all the time
CB1228P Rods
MS960P Mains

[larrym]

Thanks Joe
I should have caught this putting it together.....
I was to excited checked the clearances and the end play on the crank. Had I double checked side clearance on the rods this probably could have been avoided.
New bearings will be here Wednesday. I'll chat with the machinist and hopefully just slide the new bearings in and run it.

[daveismissing]

Did you drop a decimal place on us Larry?

[larrym]

Yes I always do that....... .0015 and .0018 as homer would say "doh!"