Upper A Arm Removal

[Recap]

Getting ready to install 12" brakes and do the vacuum conversion on my GN.  Quick question, do the upper arms come off by just removing the nuts on the cross shaft or will the headers be in the way and need to come off also?  Looks real tight and would rather find out now as opposed to when I am trying to get the control arms off when I am knee deep in brake fluid.

[TexasT]

It has been a while for me but I'm pretty sure I'd remember having to put the manifolds. Be careful those springs have a lot of energy.

[Steve Wood]

get a baster and suck the fluid out of the front brake reservoir before you start (larger reservoir).  That will minimize the fluid problem.

Unless there is something unique about your car, the arms should clear the headers...been a long time since I did the one on the drivers side but I don't think I even had to knock the cross arm retaining bolts back any to get them off.

[good2win22]

I did mine last summer.  No need to pull the manifolds.  If you still have the stock steering shaft, I would remove it so you can get that big plastic rag joint protector out of the way

[Recap]

Thanks for the replies.  When you mention getting the steering shaft out of the way, do you just disconnect it from the steering box or do you mean to remove the entire steering column?

[good2win22]

Thanks for the replies.  When you mention getting the steering shaft out of the way, do you just disconnect it from the steering box or do you mean to remove the entire steering column?

i pulled mine out completely.  It may be a bit stiff to collapse if it's never been out. Take the bolt out near the firewall and then give it some slight taps to shorten the shaft.  Get the top joint off at the fire wall first  then remove the bolt at the gearbox and slide it out completely. Piece of cake

[Recap]

Great thanks again for the info.  Something I can hit with WD40 and let sit for a few days.  Cold and snowy for the next few months so I have time! 

[DavidM]

No need to remove headers or steering shaft.
2 18mm nuts holding the Upper control arms on.
Put a long wrench on the nuts and use your impact or ratchet
on the splined bolts. Replace bolts/nuts. Tap new bolts in place and all you need is ratchet/wrench on nuts.

Sounds like you are tearing front end for rebuild as well?
What 12" brakes?

[good2win22]

Or do like Davidm says and knock out the bolts and don't have to take anything else off the car.  Those bolts are splined as he mentioned and if you use an impact to turn the bolts, you will strip out the splines on the frame or bolt or both.  After doing it this way and replacing the bolts, alignment guys will greatly appreciate you if you go ahead and throw a tack weld on the heads of the bolts so they won't spin when they do the alignment

[Pyro6]

Another thought, run the nuts out until flush. Slightly tap them back and forth to loosen the stud, and than gently pry or tap  stud (as access allows)out of frame.

[Charlief1]

 

Or do like Davidm says and knock out the bolts and don't have to take anything else off the car.  Those bolts are splined as he mentioned and if you use an impact to turn the bolts, you will strip out the splines on the frame or bolt or both.  After doing it this way and replacing the bolts, alignment guys will greatly appreciate you if you go ahead and throw a tack weld on the heads of the bolts so they won't spin when they do the alignment

Jason knows this from experience.

[good2win22]

Yes sir!  I have been the valedictorian every year that I attended the school of hard knocks...  Sad part is that I'm still enrolled

[Recap]

Thanks for the alternatives  for removing the upper A arms. 

The 12" set up I am putting on is B body spindles, 1LE rotors, and Spohn upper control arms.