Author Topic: fuel pump  (Read 9885 times)

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Offline xpander343

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #15 on: December 03 2014, 11:41:51 PM »
on mine it ended up being the stupid dirty contacts on the back of the dash cluster that caused my gas gauge not to work.   I'm pretty sure mine was always pegged way past full. 
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #16 on: December 03 2014, 11:56:25 PM »
digital senders ae 120 ohms vs 90 for the analog senders.  No digital senders available so 90 is what you can buy.

You can clean the slider and the wire coil with some number 1000 grit paper...lightl y and see if that helps. (actually, I am thinking of another sender but I remember that I took the new sender that I bought from racetronix apart after it did not read and did something to the pick up to make it make better contact)  think it was my jeep that I shined up the surface on lol) that was after I had to pull the pump back out when it did not work...found a miscrimped wire in the hd in tank wiring that allowed the wire to fall out once it was installed...so I fixed that as well as convinced the fuel level to work...

Ohm the sender and see if it does the 0 when empty and somewhere close to 90 when full.

Cleaning the terminals at the gauge end is always a good idea.  having a good ground at the tank helps too.
« Last Edit: December 04 2014, 12:15:45 AM by Steve Wood »
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Offline TexasT

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #17 on: December 04 2014, 08:27:04 AM »
Sounds good. Thanks for all the info. The gauge kinda moves around but I don't trust it. We will put the meter to it and see if the contacts can be cleaned at the tank and in the dash. I know the light dimmer switch was quite corroded so I bet the fuel gauge isn't much better.
Rich

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Offline TexasT

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #18 on: December 10 2014, 01:38:02 PM »
We dropped the tank and got the level gauge contacts and the other connections cleaned with some spray electrical contact cleaner. The plug for.the pump was different than stock so we cut and soldered the new connector on and put some heat shrink on the connection. Now I am kind of gunshy with the connection as there wasn't anything mechanical connecting just the solder and the heat shrink. Any thoughts on this, or am I just silly and over thinking it? I guess the gas sloshing around in there and the wire just out there getting pushed around stressing the connection.

Anyone have any thoughts?
Rich

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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #19 on: December 10 2014, 01:39:16 PM »
if you soldered the wires, it should be fine
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Offline earlbrown

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #20 on: December 10 2014, 02:09:03 PM »
Anyone have thoughts on what to do to the hanger to get the fuel gauge to work? Yes, I'd love a new stainless hanger, no it isn't in the budget.


Yes, take a file and knock a clean spot on the float arm and the hanger assembly.  Then solder a thin ground wire from the arm to the hanger.   Make sure to route it so the wire can't really add any tension or friction to the arm's sweep.

After I did that mod, I can damn near see fuel slosh on my gauge.
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Offline 278CIKILLER

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #21 on: December 10 2014, 02:25:01 PM »
If you put heat shrink rap on the connections after the fix and then put it back in the tank the gas is just melt the rap off.

Offline TexasT

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #22 on: December 10 2014, 03:06:55 PM »
Thoughts on what to wrap the solder joint with so the exposed wire doesn't cause problems ?

My thought was pull it again and install a butt crimp connector, but I'm still mulling it over.
Thanks for all the input.
Car running well and it looked like the gauge was working but I haven't  changed the level yet. We got it 20-120 ohms but this is an analog car so I wasnt real sure of it.
Rich

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Offline good2win22

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #23 on: December 10 2014, 03:14:29 PM »
In the aviation world we sometimes use what we call a knife splice.  Make the splice, connect the two terminals, then slide clear tube over the splice and zip tie the ends of the clear tube.
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #24 on: December 10 2014, 03:30:19 PM »
if you staggered the splices, there should be no problem.

Putting a piece of tubing over them, if you did not, should fix the problem.
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Offline TexasT

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #25 on: December 10 2014, 03:34:56 PM »
Tubing, I have some clear tubing that might be used in an oxygen breathing apparatus. That and a zip tie at each end might be the way I go.
Rich

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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #26 on: December 10 2014, 03:39:31 PM »
that should work...
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Offline TexasT

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #27 on: December 10 2014, 08:38:26 PM »
I also have the squishy rubber cylinder piece looks like it might be deteriorating. I didn't really process it until I looked at the "sock" from the other pump. I think ill remove it too. Maybe wrap the pump with a piece of bicycle inner tube for noise cancellation.
I broke the "tit"(for lack of a better term) that retains the new sock on. We uased some zip ties but it seemed the bottom of the tank will hold it on. Also had to zip the cover for the fuel gauge on as we broke one of the retaining tags off. We will be saving up for a new pump hanger piece. Upside, car did run so we have it wired correctly. I have pix but am having trouble getting them on my hosting site.
Rich

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Offline daveismissing

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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #28 on: December 11 2014, 12:22:54 AM »
teflon heat shrink is likely OK
http://www.vp-scientific.com/Chemical_Resistance_Chart.htm
Do test the stuff you have laying around in your fuels first.
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Re: fuel pump
« Reply #29 on: December 11 2014, 08:31:54 AM »

photo hosting
Old sock



jpg images
Contact cleaner



image hosting services
Insider sender



img
Broken Tit


picture upload
Zip tied sock
Rich

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