jason's education thread

[Scoobum]

Weight savings in my car:

Sound deadener removed
Radio/speaker delete-Replaced with TR Customs 2 gauge panel
Aluminum rear drums
Aluminum driveshaft
9 inch convertor
F Body rad swap
Front/rear aluminum bumper inserts
Ultra light wheels-9 lbs each
Mini starter
AC delete-Heater box retained
Metco billet aluminum rear LCA's
RJC pulleys

[TexasT]

Weight savings in my car:

Sound deadener removed
Radio/speaker delete-Replaced with TR Customs 2 gauge panel
Aluminum rear drums
Aluminum driveshaft
9 inch convertor
F Body rad swap
Front/rear aluminum bumper inserts
Ultra light wheels-9 lbs each
Mini starter
AC delete-Heater box retained
Metco billet aluminum rear LCA's
RJC pulleys

So, what does it weigh after this reduction program?

[Scoobum]

I'll let you know in the spring. There's a truck stop around the corner from our hole in the wall shop with scales. When we swap the trans I'll take it over and have it weighed. I'm curious myself.

[good2win22]

with Eric's TT chips, is there a rule of thumb for fuel tuning with changing in temperatures?


Like 1 number up or down when temps change by let's say 5 degrees

[Scoobum]

My answer would be...no. You have to get to 'know' your engine. I have a friend down in NC that was an ATR engineer. He sent a leather bound journal to me several years ago. I keep notes on temperature/humidity/fueling/timing/boost for each run. When I hit the track all I have to do is look at the thermometer/barometer I have with me...and I can make my adjustments and be pretty close. When I make an all out assault like last Sunday...and things are getting borderline...t hen I consult with Steve for final recommendation s.

[good2win22]

Been looking at the SD2 chip for some time and been thinking of going this route when I get my barn engine ready for install.  That engine is no where close to being ready.  Still need to decide on using the stock iron heads or the TA aluminum heads, pick a cam flat tappet or roller, decide on lifters, port the intake to match the gaskets, decide on using the 1.65 roller rockers or the stock ones. Only thing that I'm lacking is the wideband O2 sensor.  I understand that it will open up a whole new realm of tuning possibilities but feeling a little anxiety about my understanding and capability of tuning the thing. 
Do you guys have some suggestions on where I can go to read up on advanced tuning?  I've read eric's website and it says the chip comes with a base tune but I have no idea about spark and VE tables

[Steve Wood]

You will go no faster, I suspect, with an SD2 than you currently can with a regular chip unless you are trying to get into the nines and have a fuel management programming friend.  After all, more than one has edged into the nines on the same chip that you currently have.  I run a couple of the regular SD chips mainly because I did not want to have to buy a maf/translator and have no emissions testing to worry about.  I started with the Max Effort which is the predecessor to the SD back in the '90's.  Out of 20+ adjustments, I probably play with 5-6 of them.

You seem to be looking for magic parts to go faster.  Most of the parts you list are helpful when you reach mid-tens and beyond.   If that is your goal, then you better build a new engine that will handle that kinda output if you do not abuse it.  Be advised that magic parts may have capability but it is the combination and how you tune it that makes you go faster.

I would say it is time to quantify your aspirations and then it might be easier to make decisions and get some meaningful advice.

[good2win22]

I'm not neccessarily looking for magic parts but more looking at maximizing the potential of all the parts.  Hence, the combination.  My previous question was intended only to gain knowledge about tuning with SD2 as it has capabilities that my current combination does not and requires knowledge that I do not have but would like to gain.  As with an earlier question about aluminum heads.  Hell, I don't know a thing about wideband but everyone tells me it's the way to go. Hadn't bought that yet.
 
I do plan on building another engine with the components to withstand the abuse of the occasional smack down the track at 10ish seconds and I have seen scoobum's thread on the cheap ass 10.5 second build.  So I do realize it can be done without "magic parts."
 
Do I think I could build this engine/combination on my own?  Yes I know I can but I have been the summa cum lauda of the school of hard knocks and at the age of 41 it's getting a bit old and expensive.   Am I an instant gratification kind of guy?  No.  I'm what I would call a do-er not a talker.  If I can do it and have the time, then I'll do it now not later and most likely exceed the expectations of any who is involved.  Also, I believe in taking time to do things right the first time or having to make time to do them right the second time.  This is why the barn engine is still in the barn.  I won't start a project unless I can finish it and as of this posting, I don't have all of the components figured out.  I don't know what I don't know but I can try and hopefully mitigate all the risk of breaking something.  Having worked on aircraft for most of my adult life, it has been my goal to make things reliable not neccessarily with all out performance in mind.  This is where I hope you guys can fill in what I don't know or direct me to where I can find out.
 
Have I bought cool guy parts?  I would have to say yes.  I call them "brand new second hand."  As I did not buy them new.  I have a set of TA street intimidator heads-used and not installed.  I have a set of TD 1.65 roller rockers-used and not installed.  I read a great deal about the 200-4R tranny being the weak point and spent my money on cool guy parts for that and it's all installed and in my car.  Shifts flawlessly now and I don't worry about it anymore.  Have several turbos in the barn-all used, some of which I can't even identify.  Have a champion fuel rail-used not installed.  Have a set of TA headers-used not installed but may be here in the near future cuz of the crack we found on the driver side stock header.
 
All that being said, it's the quest of bringing it all together as quickly as possible that drives me.  I don't want to end up like my father-in-law, who at the age of 65 has finally got his big block ford running in his 64 galaxy.  His engine was on the stand when I started dating his daughter 19 years ago.
 
I thought it was known that my goals were for a 10 second time slip and then relax cruising down the strip with my head banging to white snake blaring from the concert sound II.

[Steve Wood]

At 73, I guess I better quit wasting my time, then

[good2win22]

At 73, I guess I better quit wasting my time, then

No disrespect meant at all Steve. I revel when meeting folks like you who are willing to share a lifetime of knowledge because I just want to rip all that info out of your heads.  I've seen it too many times when folks think they have some proprietary info and won't help out a fella who just wants to absorb everything. 


The other thing that bothers me is that you can write something on one of these forums and it can be taken completely out of context or the intent was not conveyed completely. I really prefer meeting folks in person.  My apologies if I offended. 

[good2win22]

It appears that the driver side header was previously repaired and the now has a crack over/alongside the weld.

[Scoobum]

Weld 'er up again.

[larrym]

Yeah it's pretty common for them to crack along the weld.
That why I had my gusset welded so that the crack prone area could be accessed in the future.
It was a v shape piece welded to the tubes and the top of the log.

[larrym]

Pics

[Scoobum]

Great pic Larry.