nocooler's firechicken thread

[Scoobum]

At least it'll be up and running.

[nocooler]

Spent some time on Struggle Street today.
Car would start run for 20-30secs and stall, spent some time with the tune and didn't get anywhere. I found 4 plug wires that weren't clipped to the plugs. Engine runs and idles now but my boost gauge is showing 5" vacuum, map sensor is showing 50-60kpa which is 15-18" of vacuum. Great I have a leak somewhere, I pulled the line to the brake booster off and it still idled, plug it back in and stick my head under the dash and sure enough seems like the booster is leaking. Push the pedal and no assist. Apparently I broke the oil pressure sensor off when I installed the intake.
But the car is on all 4 tires, starts, and runs. I had one small trans leak, but I tightened the fitting and all was well.

[Steve Wood]

Some days are more frustrating than others....damn boosters do that at times

[Scoobum]

Take your time Jeremy. I always looked at the Buick as not being my DD...so I took my time. Make sure everything is spot on...before you hit the track. I dunno how many times I had locals show up...when their TR shouldn't even have been there.

[nocooler]

My local track is closed for the season. I'm in no real rush. My stuff is usually pretty well dialed in from street pulls before I go and try to make some passes at the track. 

[nocooler]

Well - I got the booster out today, it's dead. If I play with the seal I can get it to hold 5" vacuum, but as soon as you touch the rod it goes away.
I tested my boost gauge as well and it's toast as well, it leaks internally - it won't hold vacuum or pressure. 

[nocooler]

I was able to move the master out of the way. It was definitely a challenge pulling it out. You pretty much have to fight the cowl, strut tower, and the valve cover for space.

[daveismissing]

Nasty fitment-kudos on being a contortionist.

[Scoobum]

OMG!!!! RUST!!!!

[nocooler]

Yup that's where the clutch master was, doesn't take much brake fluid to create rust. 

[nocooler]

Got the booster and boost gauge in today. 
I spent most of the day diagnosing a no start issue. Turned out to be my key. Checks at 4100 ohms were the spare key was 4700 ohms. Spare key makes it through the security reset procedure, the other does not. So the car runs, has power brakes, and a working boost gauge. Time to start tuning.

[Scoobum]

Jeremy. It'd be great to do vids of what you're using for fuel management and how to tune it step by step. Remember...not everyone's as smart as you. Keep it simple and dumb it down. There's a million Scoobs wandering around out there. Scoob will flood you with questions on your channel.

[Scoobum]

For instance. Do a vid on how to ohm a key. Scoob hasn't got a clue.

[nocooler]

I'm taking a day off from the car, my body is pretty pissed today. After working on the car most of the day yesterday I came home and changed a hvac zone damper motor. The old ones failed closed, so I pried them open for the a/c to work. But I'm really sick of the uneven heat so that was enough motivation to get after it. It took some backyard engineering, as it was not a direct replacement. I came up with a piece of 1" long 5/16 rod to use as a drive pin and a 1" long 6-32 machine screw to extended what I would call a locating pin. After that smooth sailing, 2 wire hook up, and it worked. I've got another motor on the way as I had 2 bad ones. I'm saving a good chunk doing this myself. These honeywell motors are sweet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GWW9M6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Steve Wood]

good deal!