80 Z28 No Start Question

[Scoobum]

Drove the 80 Z28 for about 2 hours straight. Pulled up in front of the house...and shut it off. Decided I'd put it in the driveway. Turned the key...and nothing...with the exception of the headlights dimming somewhat. Went out the next morning...and it turned over no problem. I'm thinking the starter or solenoid is getting hot. I'm fairly certain both are original form 1980. When I turned the key over when I went to start it up after the two hour run, the key can be removed in the on position. Could it also be the ignition switch where the key goes in?

[Steve Wood]

As the lights went dim, I would guess the solenoid

[Scoobum]

Thanks. If it ever gets above the freezing mark up here, I'll swap it out. Another chilly nite.

[earlbrown]

Freezing mark?  Its 3am here and chilly at 71.F....    that's 21.88C (anadian)   


You guys can have all that!




where the key goes in means nothing. That's just a lock. It doesn't have anything to do with the electrical system.

[SuperSix]

I don't see how it can be the ignition cylinder..

I would also check for a dead cell in the battery, and make sure the batt terminals are clean.

[earlbrown]

since the lights dimmed with you hit the starter, that means it was pulling some current. Did you hear any clicks or anything?   Sounds like a typical GM hot start problem to me.

If it does it again, a test would be to have someone hold it to start, then bang the starter with a Mag-Lite or tire iron.  If it busts right off, it's a sticky solenoid.

If you don't care about remaining 'concours' a Ford starter solenoid usually fortifies the signal enough to make the work right.

[larrym]

Yeah I hate to say it but I got a ford solenoid on my Buick...

[Scoobum]

since the lights dimmed with you hit the starter, that means it was pulling some current. Did you hear any clicks or anything?   Sounds like a typical GM hot start problem to me.

If it does it again, a test would be to have someone hold it to start, then bang the starter with a Mag-Lite or tire iron.  If it busts right off, it's a sticky solenoid.

If you don't care about remaining 'concours' a Ford starter solenoid usually fortifies the signal enough to make the work right.

Earl...it never made a sound. Turned the key...and the lights dimmed slightly. Went out the next morning...and it turned over normal. Tried starting it about a million times...thinki ng it mite be a bad connection...b ut it started each time normally. Only thing I noticed is the key can be removed while the car is running. Is that normal for that year of GM car..or is the cylinder NFG...and should be replaced?

[Scoobum]

Freezing mark?  Its 3am here and chilly at 71.F....    that's 21.88C (anadian)   


You guys can have all that!




where the key goes in means nothing. That's just a lock. It doesn't have anything to do with the electrical system.

Was 48F at the track Saturday nite...and they had frost Sunday morning one hour north of me in Lindsay.

[Scoobum]

I don't see how it can be the ignition cylinder..

I would also check for a dead cell in the battery, and make sure the batt terminals are clean.

New battery...new alternator...c onnections clean.

[earlbrown]

Pulling the key out of an old GM lock is pretty common. Once they wear down enough you can pop them right out after the lock is turned.   In someways it's kinda handy if you need to run back in the house to grab something after you've already started the car.

It's actually not that hard to swap in a new lock. They're only about $13 at the fast food parts houses. The only trick is getting that damn steering lock plate reinstalled if you haven't built a 'special tool'.



Putting a new lock in won't have anything to do with your starting problem though. It's just a lock.

[Scoobum]

I'll leave the lock well enuf alone. Thanks for the help everyone.

[Top Speed]

It sounds like the solenoid does not have a heat shield on it and gets too hot.  I had the same issue with a 78 T/A.  I put the heat shield back on and it would start hot everytime.

[Steve Wood]

It sounds like the solenoid does not have a heat shield on it and gets too hot.  I had the same issue with a 78 T/A.  I put the heat shield back on and it would start hot everytime.

That's the reason we used to put Ford remote solenoids on them....used to be hell with headers if there was no heat shield installed

[Scoobum]

I'm the third owner of the car...bone stock when I got it...with the exception of a true dual exhaust on it...with stock exhaust manifolds. Hoping to get some time on Sunday to slide underneath it and yank the starter. Hopefully the heat shield is still there.