Spooling help

[Steve Wood]

doubt it...what air pressure does this one move at?

disconnect the arm, take a piece of wire and tie the wastegate closed so it cannot be opened...watch the boost gauge and let off when it hits 25 psi...if it hits 25, then we have a boost control problem...if it stays at 23, then we have another problem

[Shimy87]

23 lbs with wired shut

[Steve Wood]

so that says that there is either an exhaust leak, or, the puck is not sealing, or, the turbo is bad.  If you take the hose off the turbo inlet and grab the shaft of the compressor, does it have any undue motion side to side, or any perceptible move in and out?

Does the wheel spin easily?

When you looked at the puck, did it have a nice ring around it where it sealed when closed, or did it show signs of leaking on one side or the other?  You might try putting a very thin film of grease (like paper thin) around the edge of the hole and then close the puck to see if the grease transfers to the puck all the way around

What do you think, Brad?

[Steve Wood]

I guess Brad does not think, he just does! 

[Shimy87]

Guess so   The puck looked like it was very good. I didnt see any smoke leaks when I checked the exhaust but at this point I think I'm going to pull the headers, stick some 80 grit to my steel tablesaw bed and sand both flat and reinstall with new gaskets. The pipe that goes under and up, any recomendations for getting the best seal there?

[larrym]

Do u have a stethoscope they are cheap and good for finding vacuum and exhaust leaks I have had good success with remflex gaskets and troublesome header flanges that where warped.

[larrym]

http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html


That's what I use I add a plastic T and a long piece of tubing to check the header at the cross over and scourer the engine for vacuum leaks you will be amazed at how easy it is to pinpoint even a small leak. 

[Steve Wood]

I don't use gaskets. If a smoke test does not show a leak,  it ain't leaking.

[Scoobum]

Steve, I think it can be incredibly difficult...at times...to diagnose a problem if you're not physically there. I've had guys tell me what they THINK is wrong with their car...but when they get to the track and I hop in the passengers seat...it's something entirely different.

As Steve says...check the turbo for in and out play...which must be ZERO...it can have some side to side play. I'm prolly the most anal person on the planet when it comes to making sure I have ZERO pre turbo exhaust leaks. Yes I know Steve ...the factory never used header gaskets...but I do...torqued to factory specs. I use an RJC turbo/header gasket...with NEW studs and nuts...readily available at any exhaust shop. I also use NEW exhaust flange studs and nuts...and SLOWLY tighten them up EVENLY. I use a thin smear of orange sealer on the puck...to check for alignment. Orange is easy to see...for an old fart like me. I have no problem spooling this 6262 with my AC 16930 convertor. PL had me leaving the line last week at 3450 RPM's...with no tuning...and a few seconds of spool time.

This is a long shot...but happens more often than what you think. Norbs with his S1 car...Fred with his S2 car...and Jamaican Paul with his S2 car all had a hard time picking up the revs...and were down on HP...and had a hard time spooling. I mentioned to Norbs the cam on each car could be retarded. After 2 years Norbs finally found out his was retarded God knows how much. Jamaican Paul dropped a bolt down the cam sensor hole...and had to pull the timing cover to get it out...and lo and behold...the dots weren't lined up. Fred put a video up of his timing chain...and it had about four inches of play in it. I tip my hat to you Steve...cuz ya' got more patience than I have.

[Shimy87]

thats what i thought also but here's the pickle I'm stuck with. The puck closes well, I put chalk line chalk on it and pushed it closed and it left a perfect outline on the housing maybe an 1/8 inch overlap, so its good. The turbo spins super freely and has no play at all so the only thing left is a leak? I dont get it but its the only thing I havent taken off and looked to see if i can see anyplace where it shows any signs of a leak.

[Steve Wood]

Brad, I am with you all the way.  I wish I had kept all the emails over the past ten years from people asking for help.  Tragic-Comedy.

Okay, to this problem.  How much boost did you get out of the original turbo?

And, do a compression test and tell us the compression for each cylinder.  Crank it up, let it run a few seconds to get some oil on the cylinder walls and turn it off before it gets so hot you will get burned by a pipe.  Disconnect the cam sensor, hold the gas wide open, and crank it over 6-7 times for each cylinder.  Write the compression down and go to the next.

I usually take all the plugs out before I start, but it is not absolutely required.