Author Topic: chime and buzzer  (Read 3846 times)

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Offline Shimy87

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chime and buzzer
« on: July 05 2014, 03:03:31 PM »
Is there a fuse that I can pull that will disable the chime when you put the key in but not start it and also the seat beltbuzzer/light. My chime is bad and the buzzer sticks on. Thanks!!!
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline earlbrown

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #1 on: July 05 2014, 05:14:46 PM »
Reach under the dash and start squeezing boxes until the buzzer changes tone.  You know it when you find the offending device. It'll sound like it has a cold.


I would tell you where it's at, but the VERY first mod I did in my GN was to yank that stupid thing out.   I have no idea where I found it.   I wanna say left of the steering column :)
'87 GN - 4.2L SFI Turbocharged innercooled V6 - Chrome valve covers - supra pump - 14" K&N - 52mm throttlebody - rocker shaft supports -  1/2 intake spacer - TB coolant bypass - 3" ATR exhaust tip - Alum intake pipe - NOS timing cover - chip - relocated charcoal canister - CR42's - stock

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #2 on: July 05 2014, 06:15:22 PM »
Looking at the dash from the drivers seat,  it is just to the right of tach/boost gauges. Batch toeat get to... Not so bad if you take the seat out and lay on your back
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #3 on: July 05 2014, 06:17:15 PM »
Bitch to get to
Steve Wood

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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline firebird_1252

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chime and buzzer
« Reply #4 on: July 05 2014, 07:03:35 PM »
Don't it kinda look like a resistor?
87 GN- :D
2011 Jeep Liberty.. its trail rated!

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #5 on: July 05 2014, 08:03:13 PM »
Nope. It's a box
Steve Wood

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Offline Shimy87

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #6 on: July 06 2014, 12:20:17 AM »
Can you go through the instrument panel to get to it? Also lately when I start the car, 40% of the time my knock alarm will go off for a second or 2???
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #7 on: July 06 2014, 10:01:26 AM »
I went from under/behind the dash....

The knock alarm is hearing the starter drive hit the flex plate
Steve Wood

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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline Shimy87

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #8 on: July 06 2014, 11:50:42 AM »
Is the starter drive hitting something I can adjust and correct? Sorry, probably a stupid question :icon_redface:
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Shimy87

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #9 on: July 06 2014, 01:07:44 PM »
So I fought that chime box out. Can you just remove that box and everything else is good to go? Seems like something  with seven electrical tabs going to would be needed? Dont want to start car if I need to do something in box and reconnect it.  Thanks!!!
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #10 on: July 06 2014, 01:14:10 PM »
Should work. Lose door chimes seat belt light, and head lights on some models
Steve Wood

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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #11 on: July 06 2014, 01:15:11 PM »
Starter always hits when it engages
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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

Offline Shimy87

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #12 on: July 06 2014, 02:09:04 PM »
Thanks!!!!!!
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline earlbrown

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Re: chime and buzzer
« Reply #13 on: July 07 2014, 01:16:37 AM »
I've never figured out why GM needed a buzzer with 30 wires running to it.  One would think two would do it.


Ditching that thing is the first mod I do to all my cars.
'87 GN - 4.2L SFI Turbocharged innercooled V6 - Chrome valve covers - supra pump - 14" K&N - 52mm throttlebody - rocker shaft supports -  1/2 intake spacer - TB coolant bypass - 3" ATR exhaust tip - Alum intake pipe - NOS timing cover - chip - relocated charcoal canister - CR42's - stock

 

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