help

[Turbogn86]

ok guys as i said earlier my old motor is basicly crapped out, im going with all new interals, i am thinking of purchasing a block, cam, and crank, and pistons and i need everything to assemble it and i deas on new things would be great. i am keeping this a daily driver so nothing too out ragious, but i wanna push about a 51-60 series turbo. what injectors, roller assembly?, stroker?, throw some ideas out please...

Thanks guys,
Jeremy

[DCEPTCN]

For a PT51 turbo, I run the Mototron 65 lb. inj. and a Pat's 10" converter with a 3500 rpm stall. Unless you're at a high elevation like me, the 3500 stall might be overkill.

That's about all I've got for ya.

[ledzeppac]

3500 is too much for a daily driver.
Stay at or below 3000

42, 50, or 60 injector is more than enough.

Ta49/60 te44/60 will get 11.50s

Why not just a stock rebuild with a hotter cam?

[DCEPTCN]

I can only speak of my own experience, but it has been this:

3500 is too much for a daily driver.
Stay at or below 3000

Although I've always heard this, my car is plenty streetable and doesn't feel all laggy. A buddy of mine recently went with the same size/stall converter as me and he was very concerned about losing streetability. ....but he loves it- and with an even bigger turbo than mine.

42, 50, or 60 injector is more than enough.

If considering a 51 or larger as he noted above, the 60's should be what he goes after.....it's not like he'll have too much injector.

Ta49/60 te44/60 will get 11.50s

At sea level, yes.



quote="ledzeppac @ Tue Apr 11, 2006 3:20 pm"]Why not just a stock rebuild with a hotter cam?[/quote]that's what I've got and I think it rocks, but it sounds like he's going for a faster car than mine, so I don't know.

[DCEPTCN]

I can only speak of my own experience, but it has been this:

3500 is too much for a daily driver.
Stay at or below 3000

Although I've always heard this, my car is plenty streetable and doesn't feel all laggy. A buddy of mine recently went with the same size/stall converter as me and he was very concerned about losing streetability. ....but he loves it- and with an even bigger turbo than mine.

42, 50, or 60 injector is more than enough.

If considering a 51 or larger as he noted above, the 60's should be what he goes after.....it's not like he'll have too much injector.

Ta49/60 te44/60 will get 11.50s

At sea level, yes.

Why not just a stock rebuild with a hotter cam?

that's what I've got and I think it rocks, but it sounds like he's going for a faster car than mine, so I don't know.

[DCEPTCN]

I can only speak of my own experience, but it has been this:

3500 is too much for a daily driver.
Stay at or below 3000

Although I've always heard this, my car is plenty streetable and doesn't feel all laggy. A buddy of mine recently went with the same size/stall converter as me and he was very concerned about losing streetability. ....but he loves it- and with an even bigger turbo than mine.

42, 50, or 60 injector is more than enough.

If considering a 51 or larger as he noted above, the 60's should be what he goes after.....it's not like he'll have too much injector.

Ta49/60 te44/60 will get 11.50s

At sea level, yes.

Why not just a stock rebuild with a hotter cam?

that's what I've got and I think it rocks, but it sounds like he's going for a faster car than mine, so I don't know.[/quote][/quote]

[ledzeppac]

I'm not talking about lagging wit the stall I'm refering to the tons of heat that its gonna produce....  I would go with the smallest stall I can get away with...

[Turbogn86]

i am looking at getting a 3200 stall for the t-61 or so, i also have a guy selling a 350 tranny with converter to our buick blocks for 250 if anyone wants it i can get ya the guys #. i think im going with the build up posted on RJC's website for the high 10's. of course im not looking for 10's but thats what im going to base my parts selection from. http://www.rjcracing.com/9_10_11_Sec_Perf_Receipes/10sec/10sec.html

any thing wrong with this set up?

[Recklessrob]

A PT-70 will set you back some serious money ! I wouldn't
Bother with the TH-350. You'd be better off having the TH2004R
built by a "TR knowledgable" shop. The OD really makes a difference
with regards to fuel economy. As for injectors, go for the 60's. If you
don't insist on having them balanced, Racetronix has them for $49.99 ea.
As for turbos, whereas you are looking for high tens, You'll want a TE-63 or larger.
The TE-44 you currently have is capable of mid 11's, if it didn't get a taste
of rod or main bearings from when youe engine went.Either a girdle, or
replacing the two stock center caps with billet caps will make the bottom end strong enough to withstand your performance goals (with a stock crank and rods). But,
you absolutely have to pay close attention to knock on your scan tool.

[Turbogn86]

well i am selling the old turbo to a friend because he is gonna send it off to get it rebuilt and im going to put the cash away in hopes for a t-60 of somsort no sure yet, as for cranks im hoping mine will be salvagable. im probly going with new rods, who is the cheapest? as for the tranny i was seeing if anyone wanted it, i am not in need of a newone. but myfriend is selling it. anyone have a used T-63 or somthin?

[Turbogn86]

what is the point of a girdle? i know i need it i just dont know what it does... is a 70mm throttle body worth the $?

[TSM Girl]

what is the point of a girdle? i know i need it i just dont know what it does... is a 70mm throttle body worth the $?

It helps strengthens the bottom end.  The 70mm throttle body is worth the $$$ depending on what you want the car to do.

[87natty]

The girdle works by using the block to help spread the load of the pistons trying shoot the crank out of the pan. Our motors have 2 bolt main blocks, so the bolts take more load than say a 4 bolt main block, like a Chevy.

[Recklessrob]

The girdle (and this also applies to billet main caps) keeps
the bearing caps from distorting in shape under load. The problem
with this, is that it allows the crank to distort in shape as well. If
the crank distorts too much, it'll break and you'll end up driving over it.
I wouldn't run out and buy a 70mm TB yet. At your (realistically) expected
performance level, there isn't enough gain from it to justify the expense.
Besides, it's a bolt on part thats easy to change at a later time. A common
practice is to go with billet caps for the center two with a stock crank. I've
seen that setup run mid to low 10's. However, I can't vouch for the reliability
at that level. But I've seen mid 11 sec street driven cars that were very reliable
with the same setup.

Natty, as for Chevys, the four bolt main concept is way over exaggerated.
There is little to no difference in strength between a four bolt  and a two
bolt main block. The exception to this is with a splayed cap.
With a stock four bolt main the blocks have a tendency to crack between
the long and short bolts on both sides of the cap when you go beyond the 600 hp mark. I've never seen a two bolt block crack in this area. FWIW
I'd even go as far as to say that the Buick caps are just as strong as a Chevy,
considdering that there is one less cap in a Buick.