Engine Build

[larrym]

So things are coming along.


Stop buy the Machinists to see where things are at parts and block are ready I get to do the final assembly.


Jamie is a great Machinist very particular about things to a fault some times!


$ 150.00 for a NA motor


$ 500.00 for a forged TA crank externally balanced


$ 350.00  slightly used  Diamond pistons and rings


 $1,725.00 Machine work and and bearings.


$2,800.00 short block?

[SuperSix]

"$ 350.00  slightly used  Diamond pistons and rings"

Do you know their history? How much are you caving over a new set?

[larrym]

The machinist inspected them they appeared good in his opinion, and I got them thru a reputable dealer.


usually they are $600.00 for brand new, the pistons were $250.00 rings cost me $100.00 hard to say no....


Less than what new speed pros cost and I would have had to go .030 over for the speed pros.

[SuperSix]

Ahh.. Good point.

[TRICKSIXPA]

What were the bearings made out of GOLD! Man that's some big bucks for bearings! Balancing seemed a bit high too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Scoobum]

What were the bearings made out of GOLD! Man that's some big bucks for bearings! Balancing seemed a bit high too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Parts are pretty much non existent up here...and the ones we can get...will cost you your first born. Most of the Buick junk has to come from across the border. Price of the part...shippin g...13 percent tax...5 percent duty...10 percent exchange rate...you get the idea.

[Forzfed]

Seems like a good price.

[TRICKSIXPA]

That's a shame King bearings are right over in New Jersey and a box is around $25 Canadians always get Hosed!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larrym]

I could have payed less for the bearings if I sourced them myself, this way the machinist gets to make a couple bucks and he can get me the right size based on his measurements. I do double check them before final assembly.


When I had my stock crank polished for a freshen up a couple years ago I did the same thing dropped the crank off had them inspect it polish and set me up with the bearings. Fit together perfectly all the clearances where were I wanted them oil pressure is still solid.


The reason's I'm putting this build together is so I can cane this stock bottom end and see what it will take and have an insurance policy on a stand ready to go back in.


That and I did not like the look of the front cam bearing when I had it apart last time and I got a good deal on all the pieces to put this together it all started with a standard bore $150.00 NA 109 than I just kept looking for pieces as time went on .


Should be a good little motor forged crank, diamond pistons stock rods ARP fastners.

[larrym]

so I got all my pieces home, file fit the rings and installed them.


Is there any harm in assembling the short block and letting it sit?


I might not get around to installing it until this winter unless I hurt the motor that's in there. I plan on torturing my stock bottom end at the track this year in August to see what it will take. This motor was gone thru before I bought the car has .030 speedpros in it, it has a vibration that i think is a balance issue comes on around 3000 rpm than subsides around 4000 its not horrible kind of pulsating.
Here are the bearings I found a couple years ago note the fretting on the caps it had been beat.

[Scoobum]

When we assembled our engines we used EOS on everything. We'd then bag 'em...until they were purchased.

[larrym]

so my head hurts I follow ARP instructions?  http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/123-6002.pdf


That's allot more than the specs posted here? http://www.turbobuicks.com/resources/TurboBuicks.com_Torque_Spec.pdf


Mains to 110 according to ARP instructions? Plus the studs go into the block finger tight according to the machinist?

[Forzfed]

Studs usually go in finger tight.  As for torque specs I can't say for sure but it may have something to do with the tensile strength of the bolt.  Where is Earl or Steve when you need them?

[larrym]

Studs usually go in finger tight.  As for torque specs I can't say for sure but it may have something to do with the tensile strength of the bolt.  Where is Earl or Steve when you need them?

I know !!

[Scoobum]

so my head hurts I follow ARP instructions?  http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/123-6002.pdf


That's allot more than the specs posted here? http://www.turbobuicks.com/resources/TurboBuicks.com_Torque_Spec.pdf


Mains to 110 according to ARP instructions? Plus the studs go into the block finger tight according to the machinist?

What did the machinist torque them to when he align honed/bored the block? You have to use the same he did...or your tolerances will change. If he used the original bolts...then what I found is the ARP stuff will tighten the tolerances.