The All About My 1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon Thread...

[motorhead]

Time to start putting the LS1 in this LS1 swap!  Over the last week I have swapped a set of BTR dual valve springs (polished springs and tool steel retainers) onto the PRC Stage 1 LS2/6 (CNC'd 799 castings) heads, stabbed in a Straub trunnion kit, and (today) I got into the internals with a cam swap (CamMotion 228/234 .627"/.612" 112+3, should fit with non-milled heads and stock 5.7L MLS headgasket) and started mocking up the N-Motion single roller chain (which won't work with the TFS damper - FML another aborted idea).

I will get back to fitting parts tomorrow.

[motorhead]

Double post.

[nocooler]

How do you like the trunnions? I'd like to replace my comps with bushings.

That cam should clear fine. My 231/237 .589/.595 112+4 does

[good2win22]

My inexperience my show here but damn that's a lot of lift on those valves. Father in law has something similar in his engine build but with solid lifters.

[motorhead]

My inexperience my show here but damn that's a lot of lift on those valves. Father in law has something similar in his engine build but with solid lifters.

Are you talking about:
a. Total lift/duration causing PTV issues;
b. Valve train weight causing instability/float; and/or
c. Valve train stability issues stemming from ramp rates?

[good2win22]

My inexperience my show here but damn that's a lot of lift on those valves. Father in law has something similar in his engine build but with solid lifters.

Are you talking about:
a. Total lift/duration causing PTV issues;
b. Valve train weight causing instability/float; and/or
c. Valve train stability issues stemming from ramp rates?

I was looking at the total lift and ramp rate on the 1.7 rockers.  Looks like a fair amount of stress on hydraulic lifters not to mention the rest of the valve train.  What kind of rpm is this thing capable of?

[motorhead]

I am running slow leak down rate lifters, the springs are 380# open, and I am planning on running tapered thick wall pushrods (from Manton).  The cam also has very smooth lobes which should prevent the jerking motion of getting the valve off the seat.  Max revs will be about 6800-7000rpm, peak power should be at 6500rpm.

Also the tool steel retainers and stock sized valves should help with total weight.

[motorhead]

How do you like the trunnions? I'd like to replace my comps with bushings.

That cam should clear fine. My 231/237 .589/.595 112+4 does

Good to hear I am not insane with my cam choice.

Posted this on LS1Tech the other day:

For my approach to the assembly I took advantage of our current cold snap of about -30*C (-20*F) and left the bushings and trunnion shafts outside for a day.  This dropped the OD of the bushings from .813" down to about .810" (+/- .0005), which reduced the interference fit in the rocker bodies from about .003-5" down to about .001-.003".  Some almost went together with hand pressure.  Although I did used a Summit bench vice installation to ensure accurate installation.
 
 Pretty much the easiest thing I have assembled in recent memory.

[motorhead]

Been fighting a bit of a cold lately, and felt Sunday was better spent with the girls baking and decorating cookies.

Anyway, this engine continues to fight me in one small way or another...

Started off by degreasing the sludge filled oil pan (165K miles and countless hours idling in a cop car will do that), and the front and rear covers.  Then it was time to get the oil pump drive on, I left a heat gun set on high pointed at it for a while and then slid it on (melted my neoprene glove it was that hot).  Then on went the oil pump centered with a SacCityCorvett e Align-It tool.  I used a combo of the Kent Moore and SacCityCorvett e tools to get the oil pan, and front and rear covers installed - all with new gaskets and seals.  Popped on the LS6 valley cover - which went on really easy given this engine is based on an LS6 block.  Next the BTR SLR lifters went in with new LS2 lifter trays and bolts, I had to polish one of them up with some 2000 grit sandpaper to get it into the lifter bore - no big deal.

The fun really began when I went to put the heads on and the 11mm (.4331" diameter ) ARP studs wouldn't thread (M11x2.0) into the block without binding/galling - whereby the stock bolts go in without issue.  Yes, the threads were chased (6 times per hole) and blown out (with compressed air and solvent).  Measured the stock bolts (.423") and the ARP studs (.430") to find a .007" difference.  The basic pitch matches in both the bolt and stud, and each measures out at 2.0 with a gauge.  ARP's tech line basically said they aspire to a "higher class of bolt" (let's say a Class 3) which may be causing the problem where a regular production class threaded hole (let's say a Class 2), thus the variance in tolerance from one to the next is the root issue of the interference fit.  Another possibility is the block is sitting around 10-13*C (~50-55*F) causing the tolerances to close up - but that is a bit of a stretch (bolt pun fully intended).

Thread class article:
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Screw%20Threads%20Design.pdf

Rather than mope - I just cleaned the orange sealant/thread-locker goop off the threads of a set of new GM bolts, coated them with ARP Ultralube, and torqued them down.  A pretty easy process by comparison - except that I am out $200+ on the ARP studs.  Using this process these bolts were good enough to hold the heads down on my Procharged LS2, and they will hold this thing together.

At this rate it is going to take a week to build this thing...

[motorhead]

Updates are overdue... this thing called Christmas got in the way.  Go figure.

First up... I decided to port the LS6 intake.  I couldn't think of a better way to devalue a nice speed part.  Long story short the ports are now closer to 1.10" wide (up from .980" stock) to better compliment the PRC heads (1.20" wide), the throat is now a solid 75mm behind the throttle body, and blended corners and deburred what I could.  After that was done I decided to re-port (is that a thing?) the throttle body as it wasn't done very when I first did it 10 years ago.  So out came the carbides and 80 grit drum rolls... finished it off with some 220 wet/dry sand paper.

[motorhead]

Next up: Making things fit or finding homes for the Speed Hut gauge sensors.

I almost turned a stock coolant temp sensor into an adapter.  But, snapped it when I took the tap too deep.  FML.  The next one was steel and already tapped for 1/8" NPT, I just had to grind down the OD and run a M12x1.5 die over it.  It sucked, but worked out okay.  The washer? Just a bango bolt copper washer from a brake line.

Then it was just a matter of drilling and tapping for the oil pressure gauge.  Pretty cut and dry until the headers went on... FML. Time to find another solution/relocation method.

[motorhead]

Jammed in a couple of new knock sensors, and added a rear steam pipe (which will get tied into the one at the front) for cheap four corner venting.  I did the same thing on our TBSS.

Then the intake was washed out in the kitchen sink (because my wife was out and I needed the deep sink and goose-neck faucet. LOL.) and set in place with some FAST intake port gaskets.  Popped in some 40something lb/hr injectors (Racetronix sells them as 37s @ 3 bar) which should provide more than enough fuel for this thing.

Jammed in some TR6s gapped at .040" - because there is a nitrous tank in the back which I haven't forgotten about.  For giggles I tried indexing them.

Installed the Carshop Inc adapter plates and Moroso solid mounts.  Had a small interference issue on the DS near the pan rail.  Nothing a little grinding couldn't fix.

Popped on the Hookers, tweaked the stock dipstick tube a hair, and everything went together very smooth.  The fit and finish is really worth the extra money.

Last thing I managed to install today was the Hughes SFI flexplate with some ARP bolts (amazingly they fit!) - need something to hold up to those nitrous hits.

[motorhead]

Bonus: Wheels!

For Christmas my brother had the modified wheels stripped. Saves me a lot of work! FWIW, there is a 1.25" or 1.5" adapter behind the wheel - should fit great without those in there.

[TexasT]

So when you say, "tweaked the dipstick tube" , do you just insert a Phillips screw driver and bend it where you want it?

[motorhead]

So when you say, "tweaked the dipstick tube" , do you just insert a Phillips screw driver and bend it where you want it?

I used my knee and a vice.  But, yes.