The All About My 1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon Thread...

[motorhead]

I decided to splurge on something for the wagon: Hooker 1-7/8" LS swap headers... in stainless.

Those will look really nice in stainless

Until they rust.  LOL.  I think I was feeling guilty about selling the Buick, had the extra cash, and did not want to modify the 4th Gen F-body headers I already have.  I will still have to weld in a WBO2 and make the connection for cats and cutouts.

[motorhead]

Been battling a serious cold so progress was slow this weekend.  That being said I did manage to connect all of the main circuits to the spare/unused Maxi fuses at the LS1 fuse-blocks - eliminating the need for fusible links; including the BCM.  I also wired up the Boost-A-Pump with a dedicated relay and 10ga wires for the power.  Because sending 16 volts down a 0.5mm wire just didn't make much sense; I am still undecided if it will be a 10ga or 8ga wire going back to the tank.  Either way it sure beats using just a hotwire.  The BAP will be triggered by the nitrous kit when activated - I just have to decide if it is going to be on the hit or when the system is armed.

[good2win22]

Been battling a serious cold so progress was slow this weekend.  That being said I did manage to connect all of the main circuits to the spare/unused Maxi fuses at the LS1 fuse-blocks - eliminating the need for fusible links; including the BCM.  I also wired up the Boost-A-Pump with a dedicated relay and 10ga wires for the power.  Because sending 16 volts down a 0.5mm wire just didn't make much sense; I am still undecided if it will be a 10ga or 8ga wire going back to the tank.  Either way it sure beats using just a hotwire.  The BAP will be triggered by the nitrous kit when activated - I just have to decide if it is going to be on the hit or when the system is armed.

I feel your pain.  Mother in law was diagnosed with pneumonia on Wednesday. She is drugged up but still going.


Wiring decisions are best made before a short or a hot wire causes a fire

[motorhead]

Been battling a serious cold so progress was slow this weekend.  That being said I did manage to connect all of the main circuits to the spare/unused Maxi fuses at the LS1 fuse-blocks - eliminating the need for fusible links; including the BCM.  I also wired up the Boost-A-Pump with a dedicated relay and 10ga wires for the power.  Because sending 16 volts down a 0.5mm wire just didn't make much sense; I am still undecided if it will be a 10ga or 8ga wire going back to the tank.  Either way it sure beats using just a hotwire.  The BAP will be triggered by the nitrous kit when activated - I just have to decide if it is going to be on the hit or when the system is armed.

I feel your pain.  Mother in law was diagnosed with pneumonia on Wednesday. She is drugged up but still going.


Wiring decisions are best made before a short or a hot wire causes a fire

She sounds tough.

That is pretty much my thought process on this, the last thing I want to do is have an issue after the fact which could lead to a catastrophic event.  So, I am slowing the project down (again) to get it right the first time.

[daveismissing]

10Ga drops about 0.5v more vs 8Ga on a car length, no room at the back for the step-up? 

[Pyro6]

And don't spare the poly loom wire wrap

[motorhead]

10Ga drops about 0.5v more vs 8Ga on a car length, no room at the back for the step-up?

I think I could afford the 0.5V when it goes from 12 to 16.36V when the BAP kicks on; that being said it may be better to carry the benefits of the additional voltage vs. fighting it with amps and a smaller wire for the sake of the wiring and pump itself.  Also adding the 8ga could aid in powering multiple pumps down the line.  I would like to measure the resistance of each wire before deciding, not all wires are made equal.

As for room at the back. I am certain there is.  However, it is my understanding  that you want to keep this stuff as close to the power source as possible.  Push vs. pull?

And don't spare the poly loom wire wrap

That and anti-chafing electrical tape.

[Charlief1]

You might try some stereo 10 ga since it's got super fine wire in it. It may be the best of both worlds.

[motorhead]

You might try some stereo 10 ga since it's got super fine wire in it. It may be the best of both worlds.

I already have a 0ga wire going to the back for the stereo, and originally was going to tap into that (I think).  I may even have left an open spot on the junction block I installed back there - I cannot even recall it has been so long.  My memory is fading...

[daveismissing]

executive summary:
Fresh mind this morning says leave the booster where it is, probably need 40% more ampacity on the input side and would need heavier gauges anyways. 

late nite ruminations:
Could be argued both ways
Watts in = Watts out X efficiency.

>HMM
>MAYBE THATS Watts in/Efficiency =  Watts out


So on the 12v side you are drawing more current so greater losses per foot in the cable so there is some logic in what you stated.
However also to be considered is that unless the boost power supply has remote sensing it is outputting the selected voltage at the output terminal and your pump is experiencing voltage losses along the output side cabling.
If you put the boost supply beside the pump it will deliver the preset voltage to the pump with next to zero cable losses. What it will do is suck as much current as it needs to make that top equation true on the input side, your wire gets warm so the insulation's ratings  needs to be considered.
When you are designing a system, its all about the tradeoffs.

In an aircraft weight is everything, they would use teflon or kapton insulated wire and run it way beyond (for example) house wiring current limits per gauge. Cables get warm.

[good2win22]

In an aircraft weight is everything, they would use teflon or kapton insulated wire and run it way beyond (for example) house wiring current limits per gauge. Cables get warm.

I've seen this a time or two.  Do you remember the aircraft fires of the late 90's?  There was a recall on a specific manufacturer's wire due to the insulation properties.

[motorhead]

executive summary:
Fresh mind this morning says leave the booster where it is, probably need 40% more ampacity on the input side and would need heavier gauges anyways. 

late nite ruminations:
Could be argued both ways
Watts in = Watts out X efficiency.

>HMM
>MAYBE THATS Watts in/Efficiency =  Watts out


So on the 12v side you are drawing more current so greater losses per foot in the cable so there is some logic in what you stated.
However also to be considered is that unless the boost power supply has remote sensing it is outputting the selected voltage at the output terminal and your pump is experiencing voltage losses along the output side cabling.
If you put the boost supply beside the pump it will deliver the preset voltage to the pump with next to zero cable losses. What it will do is suck as much current as it needs to make that top equation true on the input side, your wire gets warm so the insulation's ratings  needs to be considered.
When you are designing a system, its all about the tradeoffs.

Interesting.

I actually reworked the power feed wires going in/out the 30A relay for this very reason, they were 14ga and I bumped them up to 10ga.  This means that there are 10ga wires from the alternator all the way to the output of the BAP.  It is the last 15 feet I am still on the fence about - 10ga of heavy strand or 8ga of heavy strand.

Energy management and heat are the things that concern me most.  But, I am gaining a real appreciation for Ohm's Law.

[daveismissing]

In an aircraft weight is everything, they would use teflon or kapton insulated wire and run it way beyond (for example) house wiring current limits per gauge. Cables get warm.

I've seen this a time or two.  Do you remember the aircraft fires of the late 90's?  There was a recall on a specific manufacturer's wire due to the insulation properties.

Kapton alone IIRC - kapton seems the perfect material at first then it can abrade and get small cracks.

Newest specs are composites. One is TKT, teflon-kapton-teflon, the three layers are together half the thickness of the insulation on your car wires, appearance is of a wire two gauges smaller. 

Teflons are still acceptable in the air. They tend to flow a bit so its usually thicker than the TKT etc.

[motorhead]

Does anyone know if it is normal to have about 10.3 volts at the Lt Blue wire (next to Org, and Wht) coming off the brake switch harness with the key on?  My diagrams show that this is for the 3rd/High brake light.  I get the full 12 volts across the switch when the pedal is pressed.  This 10.3 volt thing is driving me crazy!

Okay so here is the deal with the Lt Blu wire:

Key Off = 0V
Key Off & Brake pedal depressed = 12V
Key On = 10.5V (settles in at around 9.5V)
Key On & Brake pedal depressed = 12V

The diagram attached (straight out of the 1986 Buick service manual) does not indicate a constant voltage of any kind on that Lt Blu wire.  So either I have a short, a crossed circuit getting fed from a Key On source, or maybe a bad or disconnected ground?  All wild ass guesses here.  The funny thing is that I have no real need for that circuit as the main harness is from my Monte Carlo - as wagons do not require/have provisions for the third brake light (aka High Level Stop Light) normally - and could just clip the wire and call it a day.  Because what I do need is to be putting 12V to the piggybacked Lt Blu wire when the brake pedal is depressed for the Camaro's cruise control module.

I've attached photos of the brake switches I am using for reference.  The top one is OEM to a '02 Camaro and the bottom one is OEM to an '87 MCSS; the wires in the rear portion of the bottom switch are from the '02 Camaro cruise control.

So if anyone can take a moment and check the following voltages for the Lt Blu wire I would really appreciate it.

Key Off =
Key Off & Brake pedal depressed =
Key On =
Key On & Brake pedal depressed =

Oh and here is how the wiring is laying down from the Camaro fuse blocks back - getting there slowly; cruise control is wired up. Even hooked up the SES light feed from the BCM to the dash too.

[motorhead]

Another diagram showing the switch: