The All About My 1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon Thread...

[motorhead]

Just go coil overs and be done with it.

Coil-overs are not off the table yet.  However, going with jacking bolts/plates I can adjust the car from inside, and won't have to climb underneath it.  I am weighing the costs vs. benefits of both systems.

[motorhead]

So onto shocks.  After a little research it seems to be beneficial to run a digressive shock vs. a linear unit. 

An explanation of the differences: ORW Bilstein Digressive vs. Linear Valving
http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/139_0307_shock_absorber_tech/viewall.html

I am a big fan of the Bilstein shocks on both my Buick and TBSS, with the latter have over 100K miles on them. The interesting thing is if you go looking for Bilstein shocks for a G-body you get two choices: HD linear and the standard linear shocks (PNs AK1043 &                       AK1044).  However, if you search for a Chevelle/Malibu (aka an A-Body up to MY 1983) you get a much greater selection: http://cart.bilsteinus.com/pdfs/motorsports.pdf - see pages 8 and 9.

Based on my research it seems that the travel rates sec/in for the AK1043 shocks are 358#/219# (compression over rebound) in the front, and 254#/141# out back; these are designed for an iron block SBC in a typical G-body which has a significant front end weight bias as compared to a wagon which is closer to 50/50 especially with low options and plans for an aluminum small block (like ours here, estimated final weight around 3300lbs).  So with that thought in mind I am pretty confident that the AK6565F at 325#/220# and AK5030R at 300#/120# should prove pretty suitable, especially once the back of this wagon is loaded with the family's stuff.

I will need to drop the cantilever mount on the differential about 2-3" to compensate for the suspension drop to keep the shock in the middle of its 7" of travel once the back is lowered.  The front end has 2" drop spindles, which I am going to keep despite the errors it introduces into the suspension geometry, in order to run a taller spring and maintain (as close to) the 5" of total suspension travel the shocks are designed for

I figure these, plus some stock style springs (thinking stock GN springs up front and the OPG "OEM rate" 3" lowering springs in the back) and the Hellwig Pro-Touring hollow swaybars should prove a suitable combination.  The classic small spring/big bar formula.

Total cost new will be about $1000 taxes in - which is about the cost of just two coil-overs.

[motorhead]

Hellwig   55700   Front   1-5/16" Hollow
Hellwig   55809   Rear   1" Hollow

[motorhead]

There is a 4-6 week lead time on the OPG springs, and the cost/logistics of getting my hands on them isn't making me "happy".

So after a 45min phone conversation with my personal tech line (aka my brother) we determined that a better option would be fitting another spring for another application to the car.

The stock wagon in its most optioned form came from the factory with 400lb/in springs in the front and 140lb/in in the rear (according the factory spec manual).  Unfortunately it (I am certain) wallowed like fat guy running around a race track; and wheezed the same too.

So the determination is that we need about 1.5-1.75 times greater spring rates, in the range of 600-700lb/in the front and 210-250lb/in in the rear to take the slop out of the ride, but not throw ride quality out the window.  The rears are going to need to be in the range of 7" installed height (like the OPG springs), given the stock springs installed at 10".

Finding the right solution in here shouldn't be too hard once I figure out the spring pocket size and choose a workable design: http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/moog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/MOOG_Coil_Springs_Spec.pdf

Going with front springs from the old spring chart takes the guess work out of the front: http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm (even if the information is contradictory to the MOOG link above, for the F-body springs).

And all for about $50 a pair.

[Charlief1]

You might want to look at my post on the poor mans suspension upgrade. It should give you some of the spring rates ect that might work for you.

[motorhead]

You might want to look at my post on the poor mans suspension upgrade. It should give you some of the spring rates ect that might work for you.

Link me.... as I am lazy.

[Charlief1]

This is the only place I posted it so very few know the info.


http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=3268.0

[motorhead]

This is the only place I posted it so very few know the info.


http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=3268.0

Ah yes, I have read that.  Good info there... however, I am going to avoid project hell by staying away from replacing the bushings and ball joints which are quite new.

[Charlief1]

Ball joints I could understand but define what "new" on the bushings is. Stock rubber bushings start to rot the second they're off the assembly line and if they're 5 years old or older you can start having problems with them.

[motorhead]

Ball joints I could understand but define what "new" on the bushings is. Stock rubber bushings start to rot the second they're off the assembly line and if they're 5 years old or older you can start having problems with them.

Oddly enough they are about 8 years old with 5000 miles on them according to the previous owner.  I am not certain if they are rubber (noting the oxidization) or polyurethane.. . but, they seem to squeak like the latter.

If and when I do get into the control arms on this thing I will be using a combo of johnny/roto joints and polyurethane from UMI - I really like them on the Buick.

[motorhead]

Decoded the VIN: http://service.gm.com/dealerworld/vincards/

Turns out our Pontiac was built in Pontiac, MI; and came with a 3.8L 2 barrel from the factory.  Definitely a bare-bones machine.

[motorhead]

Suspension ordered.

The shocks are coming out of Alabama. The only place I could find the AK6565F front and the AK5030R rear shocks under the same roof was a speed shop called Etheridge Race Parts.

Amazon.com is sending me the Hellwig swaybars and MOOG springs.  I went with the 5660 (600lb/in) and 80670 (180lb/in) springs.  The 80670s are 7" at installed height and are meant for a Pontiac Vibe.  They are pig-tailed on one end (opening ID unknown) and "flat" coiled at the other, the diameter is 5.3"; I am taking a bit of a risk here - but it should be workable if the pig-tailed end is at least 2.75" ID.  The other 7" installed height spring I was looking at was 80659 (194lb/in) which is the rear spring for a late-model FWD Buick Park Avenue, unfortunately(?) it is a double pig-tailed spring and cannot be modified.

It took a massive amount of self control not to buy the 760+lb/in and 230+lb/in springs.  I had to keep telling myself: Family car... Family car... Family car...

[xpander343]

How did you get amazon.com to ship to canada?  The .ca version doesn't have the bars on it.  I may be confused though.

[motorhead]

How did you get amazon.com to ship to canada?  The .ca version doesn't have the bars on it.  I may be confused though.

I had it sent to a buddy's place in Michigan.  He is going to run them across to my brother, my brother will drag them to my Mom's place, and so on...

[motorhead]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front-Weight-Jack,3386.html



The plate is 5.5" across the face.  Which should work out with the ID of the new springs at 5.3" after some locator tabs are added to the outside.