The All About My 1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon Thread...

[good2win22]

It's coming along!

[nocooler]

Mike - fwiw if anything, I prefer 6's for N/A and 7s for N2o.

[motorhead]

Mike - fwiw if anything, I prefer 6's for N/A and 7s for N2o.

Are we talking a 100 shot or a 200-300 shot?  I am hoping I don't need more than a 100 shot to get this car where I want it to be (10.999 @ whogivesashit), that and I don't feel like investing a lot of money into more than the single wet fogger I have now.

I will boost this thing before I start bottle feeding it like a madman.

[nocooler]

100-150shot the 6s are good for stock compression, just showed more heat than I liked at 100 shot. I like to keep as much heat out of the chamber as possible with the stock pistons.

[motorhead]

Really, huh?! Good to learn from a guy who knows.  Would you use 7s with projected or non-projected tips?

And this is a stock compression build, which will be run on 94 octane.

[nocooler]

Non projected - ngk bre7f

[motorhead]

Cool, thanks.  I have a set on the shelf.

[motorhead]

If you couldn't tell in the pics the garage was turning into a pig-sty.  So I spent the afternoon cleaning up... after I installed the freshly painted balancer and pinned the crank.  I really appreciated the pneumatic drill I picked up before Christmas which helped make short work of the job.  Added a drop of red Loctite to the pin, and set it flush with the hub (because if this ever needs to come apart I want some material to work with/weld to).

Because you never know when you might want to supercharge something.

Then I ran in the ARP balancer bolt and torqued it down.  Tried torquing downward to get the 235ft/lb spec, but that lifted me off the ground.  Went the other way and did a healthy deadlift to get it done.

[motorhead]

...and this is why we mock things up before attempting to install them in the car.  The AC compressor bracket interfered with the PS mount and adapter plate.  So a little chopping, drilling, grinding, and swearing and we have some much needed room.  I opened the mount up to accept a 3/4" bolt which should work out just fine.  I may or may not add another bolt to the mount/adapter, as this is the compression side of the engine it is unlikely that it will be necessary.

Also got the rest of the accessories test fitted, the steam line run (requires paint and clamps), 160* thermostat in, Turnone pulley on, and the nitrous install started.

[motorhead]

And that is pretty much it - the engine is built; except that I have to measure for and order some pushrods.  The last thing I had to finish up was the nitrous kit.  The goal here was to install all of the components on the intake itself (short of a few relays); just in case I need to remove it from the engine (to say install it into the car). 

Unfortunately the old dishwasher I salvaged the micro-switch from didn't have a lever arm installed... so I made one and integrated it into the bracket.  The WOT micro-switch is connected to a fuel pressure safety switch, which is connected to an RPM window switch - because safety first.

I would really like to set the purge up to bleed out of the unused antenna hole in the fender.

[motorhead]

Tore into the trans (out of 2002 Tahoe - go figure) and started to install some parts from Sonnax:

Performance Pack (HP-4l60E-01)
2nd and 4th Gear Super Servos (779911-03K and 77767)
2-3 Shift Valve (77754-41)

The instructions are pretty straight forward, but still leave a little bit to be desire from a clarity stand point if you have never done this before. The most I have ever done with a transmission to this point was install them, swap a converter, and change out a servo. So this was new territory for me. To help anyone along here are a bunch of photos to augment the instructions.

I disabled the PWM function of the TCC, so now it should work just like an ON/OFF switch (like an old school TCC trans).

Plus, there is a Coan 3200 stall, single disc, converter waiting to go on.

[motorhead]

More.

[motorhead]

Last of them.

[TexasT]

Be sure and measure the clearance on the 2-4 servo when you put it in. When I did ours on the 2004r we put it together without the seals n springs to get a .060 feeler between the cover and the retaining ring. Not sure what clearance yours calls for. We pulled it a couple times to grind down the pin to get where we wanted. If it was too short you could build it with the wire feed welder. Too much and it slips, too little and you burn a band and possibly a drum. Also make sure then band pin in the case is a snug fit. A rocking pin is a recipe for a broken pin or case.

Loving the pix. Keep em coming.

[TexasT]

Upon looking back through you are way more technical than me with the mag post and dial indicator. Nice work