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Author Topic: actuator arm  (Read 3872 times)

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Offline Shimy87

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actuator arm
« on: August 16 2013, 11:29:05 AM »
As i get older I realize my grip isnt what it was but holy crap, if you want to run boost in the 20+ range it is a bitch to get that rod on and off for adjustment. When its hot its even more of a good time. I'm going to make a T handle tool that hooks behind the nut or something. Sick of getting burned  :013:
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #1 on: August 16 2013, 11:55:50 AM »
it's because that actuator is made for a max of about 17 psi

You can get a hd actuator, or a manual boost controller

And when one tightens the waste gate like that, he should not be surprised if boost creep shows up-particularly if he has a larger than stock turbo that flows more air
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Steve Wood

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Offline Shimy87

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #2 on: August 16 2013, 12:25:02 PM »
okay i checked every site i can think of looking for an HD actuator. What i'm looking for is a part number. I have 2 actuators at home and if they have numbers on them I know one is an HD. Any chance you know the number??  :icon_eyes:
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Offline phil_long

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #3 on: August 16 2013, 12:27:28 PM »
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Offline phil_long

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #4 on: August 16 2013, 12:27:38 PM »
I could be wrong tho...........
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #5 on: August 16 2013, 12:44:34 PM »
I suppose I could fish scale test the ones I have and see if any start to pull at 18 LBS.??
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #6 on: August 16 2013, 02:08:05 PM »
Quote from: phil_long on August 16 2013, 12:27:38 PM
I could be wrong tho...........

Nope, you got it!
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Steve Wood

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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #7 on: August 16 2013, 02:10:19 PM »
actuator # 1011-673 = stock boost levels

actuator # 1011-144 = heavy duty or "high boost"

or you could apply air pressure and see which one takes the most pressure to start moving
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Steve Wood

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Offline Just a Six?

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #8 on: August 16 2013, 04:19:34 PM »
Quote from: Steve Wood on August 16 2013, 02:10:19 PM

or you could apply air pressure and see which one takes the most pressure to start moving

That way works great & Kirban sells a tool like OP mentioned but they are just as much a PITA as using vicegrips! Now matter what you use when the turbo is hot you better expect to get burned working in that area.  :013:
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #9 on: August 16 2013, 05:56:28 PM »
Of course the 2 I have are 1011-673. Looks like cottons sells the hd one for just under $100
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Offline Steve Wood

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #10 on: August 16 2013, 07:51:14 PM »
$90 on the link that Phil gave you above
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Steve Wood

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Offline Shimy87

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #11 on: August 21 2013, 01:21:04 PM »
Steve, would I be better off getting a boost controler from RJC and keeping the stock actuator or just replacing the stock actuator with the HD actuator if I want to run 24 LBS boost?
 
From reading the site it looks like you set the actuator arm with 1/8 inch tension and then set boost levels with RJC controller.  I ask becaust an HD actuator is $89 and a boost controller from RJC is $59
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87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: actuator arm
« Reply #12 on: August 21 2013, 01:29:18 PM »
I would go with the cheaper alternative myself
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Steve Wood

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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.
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