What tools are needed?

[TexasT]

So... I'm reading up on this 152a conversion for my vehicles. I'm pretty handy(If you're not hansome, you better be handy, Red Green) and Ive added 134a to vehicles before and they blew cool again for a while. My stuff is generally older. Nothing under 100k miles. Ive never gotten into an a/c system as I was always told you had to have special tools and then they started not selling r12 to us commoners so I just never learned.


This brings us to now. I want to get the a/c in several of my vehicles, including the T, up and functioning. I read that it can be accomplished with 152a office duster. Seems simple enough. Problem is I don't have any of the specialized tools for an activity like that.


So i make a trip through amazon.com to see just what I can find. I think I need a vacuum pump and a set of gauges and probably a can tap for the duster cans.
http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-85530-3-IN-1-Mount-Valve/dp/B0002SQLGC/ref=pd_sim_auto_8


So the question surfaces, do I need a two stage pump or will a single do? How much cfm does it need to pull? Im in the set that likes to buy it right and buy it once and have it last a lifetime.
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15500-VacuMaster-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B000O1C47M/ref=pd_sim_auto_14
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15115-VacuMaster-Single-Stage/dp/B005CO9FDW/ref=pd_sim_auto_18


Then comes the gauges. Lots of options there too. I think I'd like a set with a carrying case to protect them when not in use.
http://www.amazon.com/R134A-Manifold-Gauge-Set-85530/dp/B000LDPTR0/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1376233144&sr=1-12&keywords=Mastercool


Any suggestions are welcome.


TIA


Also thinking I'd like one of these to blow out the lines and such.
http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-91046-A-Conditioner-System-Flush/dp/B000HAUXLE/ref=sr_1_25?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1376233243&sr=1-25&keywords=Mastercool

[Charlief1]

If you want to buy a suction pump that's fine but if you just need 1 for a while you can get them as a loan a tool from AZ. For the gauges, go to harbor freight and you can get them in a hard case at reasonable prices. Since the G body cars don't have a lot of special fasteners a good set of wrenches and a core tool along with a set of small picks to get o rings off is all you need. The only other thing you might need is a pair of small.medium forceps to remove and install the orifice tube.


To flush the system a very small funnel can be made out of a syringe with a hose on the bottom. You can get a 3 pack of large ones from tractor supply. If you want to bring it down we can do it in the shop Rich and I've got a suction pump so you don't need to buy or rent one if you don't want.

[SuperSix]

All of the items you linked look great, and prices are good too.

Single stage is fine, that one you linked looks the same as the HF one I have, I paid around the same for mine. Same goes for the gauges.

You can buy the A/C liquid flush at a local parts store, Napa, etc..

Charlie - I never fiddled with the low pressure sensor on the accumulator like some do. Leave well enough alone?

A/C is scary until you understand how it operates, with some help from friends. Charlief is the A/C guru. I have learned a lot from Jim Testa too.

Replace the valve cores too:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0023TOKWU/

You will need to replace the accumulator - disregard what Amazon says fits - here's the correct A/C Delco PN: 15-1681
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZ8X32/

This is the orifice tube I used:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A4V78E

R134 connector kit I used:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1PC40

[Charlief1]

R-134 operates at different pressures so changing the pressure setting on the switch is a good idea. On R-12 I think the switch was set between 30 and 35 PSI so you only want it slightly lower. The hig side is going to go higher and the low side slightly lower than stock.

[SuperSix]

Cool, thanks

[TexasT]

I have been studying up and i am guessing the ford 38635 is the blue orifice tube(this is actually red I found 0.60 to 0.65 size).
 I think the 38639 is the red orifice tube(this one is orange 03056 to 0.059 orifice size) and the ACDelco 15-50120 Orifice Assembly is the white orifice tube(not sure what size could be in the 0.071 range)
 
 Just some background. I am going to go with the 152a(as seen here http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4082.0). I have procured a vac pump and some gauges(happy birthday to me). Now, as my car is stock and might even have some r12 in it(I bought it new and the a/c has never been worked on) I will probably need a new drier, orifice tube and possibly a compressor(Thanks to Jason Good2win22).
 
 I will get the drier as mentioned on the link(ACDelco 15-1681 Accumulator Dryer (This is the correct TR part #, despite what Amazon and RockAuto say). I am probably going to order several orifice tubes. The delco one might not get the green light as it is over $20 and the two ford ones are $.80 ea on rock auto in the four seasons brand.
 
 I guess I need some flush and some kind of oil. pag150, ester, mineral? So confusing. One of the sites I read about using brake cleaner to flush out the lines.

Orings and such

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRY0/26735/06500.oap?year=1987&make=Buick&model=Regal&vi=1020957&ck=Search_06500_1020957_547&rpl=1&categoryRedire ct=06500&pt=06500


http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-1681-Equipment-Conditioning-Accumulator/dp/B000JZ8X32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443362953&sr=8-1&keywords=15-1681


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Interdynamics-VA-LH8-Air-Conditioning-Conversion-Adapter-Kit-with-2-Adapters-/151826690476?hash=item23599371ac&vxp=mtr

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GT00/0233183/02736.oap?year=1987&make=Buick&model=Regal&vi=1020957&ck=Search_C1951_1020957_547&pt=C1951&ppt=C0328



Is this the way to go about it?
 http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f135/how-to-r152a-conversion-493953/
 
 I notice he is using a white orifice tube. But I am in Texas, where it is HOT. I need max cooling at all rpm.
 
 Thanks for you thoughts and sharing your experience with us novice wrench benders.

[TexasT]

Ok, I hit orielly for about $80.
I got the pag150 and a quart of flush
A vhal8 134 change kit. Some orings.
And a 6380 accumulator. I hope this is right one.

[TexasT]

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This is the accumulator I bought. Not acdelco but the guy said I could return it if I didn't install it
I wish I could lay dimes like this


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Rest of the stuff, orifice tube , oil, flush, o rings


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screen shot on pc

Anyone see anything wrong with the stuff? I didn't think I could get the mineral oil out of the stock accumulator or I'd have tried with It. Will flush the other stuff out and clean the condenser box and such. I still need to pick up some more 152a but that is easy.

Oh and that is the red ford orifice tube. We can see how it works. Accumulator is the one in the orielly computer for an 87 grand national. But with amazon and others having the wrong part I am skidish on this one. Anyone have thoughts or used this part number before?

[TexasT]

I picked up a couple three packs with the 20% off it was $8 ea. Pretty good deal.



I am hoping to get it on tomorrow.

[TexasT]

Alright, so I'm back on this little project as it is hot and I'd like some a/c. It is a Buick after all.
I got my new gauges out and the new pump. Filled pump with the oil that came with it. The pump sucks as I crunk it up and when I put my thumb over the hole it sucks it on there. The gauges came with these quick connect things and it appears the quickconnects also have a valve in them. I was able to screw the blue hose right to the stock accumulator. The red hose is too big for the high  side so I will have to see about an adapter ot maybe I need to put the male qwick co next on there. I'll have to dig up the kit. Anyway, I hooked up that blue and opened the valve but it showed no pressure. I guess no r12 left in there. So i strung out an extent on cord and hooked up the yellow hose and hit the on switch for the pump. It is a cute little thing and just buzzes away. It pulled a 25 vac on the blue side. I guess I need to have the high side hooked up to see if anything over there leaks.

I just wanted to know if it leaks but I still need to pull it apart to flush it out and clean out the compressor. I think I need some ester oil to go with this 152a stuff, even though Charlie sez it can get acidic. From my reading it is better with a system that had mineral oil in it.

Well, no dice on it holding a vac. Might be because I didn't have the high side hooked up but I imagine I need to change some orings, clean out the system and try another vac.

[TexasT]

Found this nifty little chart

And this connector diagram



I was able to screw the blue hose onto the 7/16" low side connector on the drier.
The high side is smaller and by the chart 3/8" threads. I will look for an adapter to be able to screw the high side red hose to it and then I can get pressures.
I found these two things on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Atoplee-R134a-Adapter-Matched-Gauges/dp/B013DQBCQS/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1466689392&sr=8-41&keywords=R12+Converting+Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-CH-138-R134A-Conditioner-Adapter/dp/B00WW55KHE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41d7FaTQiOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=EJBSZZAM0P6P5FSXHF2V

The reviews on the one are half good, and half bad and the second has no reviews. Not sure I want to drop over $20 on some chinesium junk. Any suggestions on what I should be looking for to hook up the high side on the 3/8" port?

[daveismissing]

If your gauges are 134 you should just be able to buy the adapter set hi and low that stays on the car?

[daveismissing]

[TexasT]

got that kit

i have changed direction a bit as this mineral oil needs to be flushed out and that involves a lot of work. Ive discovered a product from redtek that is a replacement for r12 and works with the mineral oil.

I was out there today until the rain came and got part of the can of sealer in and then we went on to trying to get the refridgerant in but had to jump the switch on the side of the drier to get the compressor to run. Question becomes what pressure does the switch tell the compressor to turn on? We had it up to 23 psi on the low side and about 35 psi on the high side with the compressor jumped and running. Is the switch bad or do we need to add more refridgerant?

[daveismissing]

Continue with charging process as determined by the RED TEKŪ 12a conversion chart and adequate cooling is attained. Low pressure gauge should read between 30 and 38 psi.

http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_chargeinstall.html

I think you are still low- its not even short cycling yet?