Installed the Hydroboost but....

[Steve Wood]

That's great news, Bob!  I am happy to hear things are going well.  These things are like women...either pure pleasure or total frustration

[Charlief1]

Well if you bench bleed it and still have issues take the master back and get a new one. I refuse to use remanned master cylinders anymore because of all the issues I've had with them over the years. I had 1 on a chevy truck and went through 3 before I spent the extra $ and bought a new one. The remans these days are a big crap shoot for some reason.

[Steve Wood]

unfortunately are the new ones made overseas....se ems about 50-50 either way you go in my experience

[SuperSix]

I may be foolish, but if there's an ACDelco option for a part, I will buy it over almost any other brand.

[Steve Wood]

made in China...hopefu lly better inspected

[SuperSix]

made in China...hopefu lly better inspected

That's really all you can hope for these days, is somewhat more consistent quality control with brands.

That, and Amazon carries almost all ACDelco for cheap, if there's a problem, just ask for a return. They will pick it up and refund the payment when the driver puts it on the truck. Amazing.

Aha! New slogan! "This is Amazing! No, it's Amazon!"

* SuperSix sends a few SASE to Jeff Bezos for the royalty checks.

[tb3]

definetly should get solid pedal once the air is out.   you are sucking air somewheres.
I've never really seen a need for the gravity bleed method either.
Just grab a helper thats good at following orders. 
may also try lightly tapping the mc with a hammer while your bleeding it. 
I've also found it helpful to tap the proportioning valve a few times when bleeding.
 

[Pyro6]

Consider one thing: if you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder,  the reason it's a no-no as Steve said, now you have air helter skelter thru the system, it can get trapped anywhere. Sounds like you're chasing the air. I just dealt with it on a customer vehicle from rusted brake lines that leaked and ran the system dry. Stay in a complete system bleed: 3 very slow pumps at each point, rr-lr-rf- lf ending with both master cylinder lines. If no air at the point your bleeding, move on but you may have to come back several times thru the complete cycle. Also, if you have been trying to fudge thru a broken or clogged bleeder, fix them before you do anything. My experience has been: very rarely has the new MC been the problem. If it bench bleeds ok its an air chaser scenario. Like has been said, you may have to tap the MC due to it's steep angle, or even jack up the car excessively to get either the calipers or wheel cylinders higher. This thread caught my attention from some recent jobs. Another nightmare I had was a Ranger clutch master cylinder. TSB's and all the tech support I have suggested bout 4 different ways to bleed this system. Been thru all the stuff here and pulled the lines, reservoir and cylinder to the bench as an assembly. It has a quick connect valve at the slave cylinder so you bench bleed that mess, depress the spring loaded valve with a phillips at the end of the line, plug it in and go. That cost me bout 8 hours on a .9 job because: bad cylinder from the start. I figured it out by testing everything on the bench. The original cylinder only did it intermittently but did have a low pedal. I couldn't get any resistance for shit from the new cylinder, plugged in the old cylinder and was tons better. I got another new cylinder, bench bled it and watta a difference. Plugged it in and all was good. My point is, like Charlie and Steve suggested, it may be a China product. Doing this stuff for a living it's what I deal with all the time. We spend more time wondering if it is a bad brand new part or is it something else? Important to know theory and procedures. Good luck. I'm going back under my shell.

[TexasT]

I bled on the car when I did mine. My helpers listen as well as I do so I always throw a 2x4 behind the pedal to keep the pedal pusher from pushing it down all the way.


Mine had a lot of nasty fluid so it got a full on flush and in with new. One day I hope to own a cool siphon tool but until then I feed/clothe/house the helper so they can be a helper when I need one.


Glad you got yours going.

[Pyro6]

definetly should get solid pedal once the air is out.   you are sucking air somewheres.
I've never really seen a need for the gravity bleed method either.
Just grab a helper thats good at following orders. 
may also try lightly tapping the mc with a hammer while your bleeding it. 
I've also found it helpful to tap the proportioning valve a few times when bleeding.
 

One thing I have found is that gravity bleeding acts as priming the system, fills in the big air gaps. But yea, finish with a brake pedal depressor or some hot chick in a bikini. If she's blond it might take longer. Redhead....... ...

[tb3]

bikini works. 

[PacecarTA]

the actron kit is cheap enough ,works well and its the one i usually grab, gets used almost daily
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7835-Vacuum-Brake-Bleed/dp/B0007VT4RC
also makes it easy to vac the old fluid from reservoirs, rather than mix the junk with new fluid when full bleeding the system


i have this but it usually sits on the shelf for abs systems
http://www.jegs.com/i/Phoenix-Systems/596/2001/10002/-1?parentProductI d=1580478

[tb3]

mine has got way more use when I overfill my transmission fluid, like a dumb-ass 
works great for sucking it back out the fill tube