Messin w/boost controller

[Pyro6]

I worked with a friend early on with a setup to test a boost controller. I was trying to find a "set point" for mine and brought his idea out of mothballs. I used a standard shop air regulator and replaced the gauge with a 0-80 which gives a finer reading. I disconnected the compressor line, fed regulated air and than watched the wastegate lever to move from it's at rest position. I found that testing it from zero to 4.5 turns out it didn't increase at 3.5 turns out, it actually decreased. Just something I was messin with, I'm sure alot of you already know it, but I am always struggling with building boost when staging.

[$1987 GN$]

Get it to backfire a few times at the line staging.


AJ___

[Steve Wood]

I have had more luck with aquarium regulators that I have the compressor style...partic ularly when it came to fine adjustment.

The manual boost controllers that are simply the pop off style seem to work better as far as I am concerned when it comes to building boost, but, the real secret is the right converter, getting the A/F right, plus getting the timing turned up a bit in first gear.  Tranny brakes help for consistency until they become breaks

[Pyro6]

Get it to backfire a few times at the line staging. Backfiring on the limiter? We loosened the convertor and it still pushes before we build any boost.


AJ___
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[Pyro6]

I have had more luck with aquarium regulators that I have the compressor style...partic ularly when it came to fine adjustment.

The manual boost controllers that are simply the pop off style seem to work better as far as I am concerned when it comes to building boost, but, the real secret is the right converter, getting the A/F right, plus getting the timing turned up a bit in first gear.  Tranny brakes help for consistency until they become breaks

It is an RJC manual boost controller. I like our convertor, we just loosened it to 3400. I like your idea on timing. I'm always afraid to give it too much. I think Saturday I'll start bumping it up a little at a time.
I don't mind it not building boost at stage, was just concerned something else was wrong. I felt testing it with regulated shop air eliminated controller, actuator and plumbing. I'm convinced the turbo/IC match is the reason. It launches nice and doesn't seem to tax the driveline, just think this car can do a 10.XX, not really a big deal. Like I said, just messin around.

[Steve Wood]

messing around is how you learn to go faster.

Normally you can run more timing at the strip than you can on the street because the engine is cooler unless you are hot lapping the car.

I have found that setting the controller with an air compressor  is not always the same as you see when driving it.  I think this may be due to the area of the wastegate puck affecting the opening rate so that the output side of the controller is seeing something different.  But, it's a good way to get a feel for it as well as getting it close.  Linearity seldom exists on the ones I have played with.

[Scoobum]

I have had more luck with aquarium regulators that I have the compressor style...partic ularly when it came to fine adjustment.

The manual boost controllers that are simply the pop off style seem to work better as far as I am concerned when it comes to building boost, but, the real secret is the right converter, getting the A/F right, plus getting the timing turned up a bit in first gear.  Tranny brakes help for consistency until they become breaks

Steve...as usual...is right on the money. To get these cars to launch...the convertor has to match the turbo. Now...this is where PL comes in handy. If you're using Erics 5.7 chip...make a full pass on the default setting. What you're gonna see...is that the 02's in low gear...are pig rich. Turbos love heat. I pull a ton of fuel from first gear and add lots of first gear timing. I run consistent 1.6 short times with MT 28x9 slicks.

[Pyro6]

Thanks Scoobum. I'm running Eric's SD chip. This car always seems to run rich which in our case is OK for self preservation. I don't feel like doing head gaskets everytime I make a mistake.  We run a reverse manual valve body w/350 turbo. Two weeks ago we ran our quickest time yet, 11.38 with 1.57 60 foot, zero boost 3400 rpm at stage.

[Pyro6]

messing around is how you learn to go faster.

Normally you can run more timing at the strip than you can on the street because the engine is cooler unless you are hot lapping the car.

I have found that setting the controller with an air compressor  is not always the same as you see when driving it.  I think this may be due to the area of the wastegate puck affecting the opening rate so that the output side of the controller is seeing something different.  But, it's a good way to get a feel for it as well as getting it close.  Linearity seldom exists on the ones I have played with.

I was using this as a testing/diagnostic sorta thing. I was looking for a baseline and I thought this test fit the bill. It seems that a full turn on the controller equal 2 psi, something I was reluctant to say before this. Plus having the controller drop out at 3 1/2 turns made me think of some runs that were anything but good. I looked in my notes and 3 1/2 was consistent with quite a few slow runs.

[Steve Wood]

the SD gives you a lot of ways to play with the fueling and the timing....You can play with a lot more things than you probably really need to, but, with patience you can dial things in very well....and on my good days, I can actually understand Eric's instructions

[Pyro6]

The thing is Steve, the car is where I want it for what we use it for. I think Eric has our chip nailed just on the default setting. The little misquito buzzing round my head is why I can't build boost while staging. I've resigned myself to let it go because I think it is a gift for the car. I just can't help but think there is 10 slip if I figure it out. And than I would have to de-tune

[Steve Wood]

just remember that for every tenth in the first 60', you pick up 1.5-2 tenths at the lights....

[Scoobum]

I'm still back in the stone ages. I adjust boost pressure with the actuator rod.