Won't Start

[Bob-Lob-Law]

I was looking at one of your other posts on turbobuicks.co m.  You know, it might be the cam sensor.  I might not have set the engine on the compression stroke.  I'll need to check this.  Something tells me that I'm going to have to tear a lot down and redo this.  Either way, I'll be working on that today when I get a break between house work. 

Thanks again, I'll let you know how it works out.

[Steve Wood]

If it is set wrong, don't feel bad!  It has happened to a lot of people before you came along! 

[Bob-Lob-Law]

No, I won't feel too bad.  It's all in the process of getting it right.  I'll let you know what happens when I get it completed.  Thanks again.

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Steve, well, I had reset the cam sensor got it all back together, started it and still no go. Pretty big blow.

So to recapture all that has been completed so far:  Cam Sensor reset.  Fuel pressure set to 42 psi.  Crank sensor showing that the harmonic balancer part going through the slot closest to the engine.  I have changed the coil pack (did not change the module). 

Still when I crank it up, while it catches right away, it dies within a second or two.  There was one time for S & Gs that I pressed on the gas to keep it going.  It chugged along, but it sounded like it was only firing on half of the cylinders, very rough.  I took out plugs from cylinder 1, 2, & 3.  1 & 2 were fouled but not wet.  3 was fouled and wet. 

So, that is as much as I can remember at this time.  Not sure where to go from here.  I do appreciate all you help.

[Steve Wood]

can you find another fuel pressure gauge?  We need to find out if the pressure is jumping around or if it is steady like it should be...

Should be a steady 43 when the hose is removed  and cranked, or about 34-35 when running if you put the hose back on...

If you check the spark, is it nice and blue and strong?

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Steve, I'll have to get another fuel pressure gauge.  I'll check the spark this evening.  Should I look at replacing the coil module as well? 

Should I also look at swapping out the fuel pump?  I currently have a double pumper. Could it be defective?

[Steve Wood]

at this point, I see nothing that says the module or coil is bad.  I assume this worked okay before?

I would verify that the fuel pressure is actually jumping around first, but, if you can take power off the second pump, I would do that to see if the pressure stabilizes.  If the second pump is going off and on...or coming in too early, it could cause a problem since the regulator probably cannot deal with the extra fuel at low speed

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Roger, the coil pack and module did work before.  The double pumper is new.  I'll get that new gauge this weekend and let you know what gives. 

Thanks and have a wonderful weekend. 

[Steve Wood]

try unplugging one of the pumps..I hate those damn things

[William Brophy]

If both pumps are running when  not into boost it will over power the regulator and cause the car to run rich. I have my second pump set around 14 psi (Hobbs switch) to kick in.
Sometimes I will manually kick the second pump on with the hood up to see if the fuel pressure jumps up & to hear the pump run. I also have an idot light that comes on in the cabin when the second pump comes on but all that is really saying is that current is being supply to the pump which does not mean it's really working. That is why I check the second pump every now and then.
Hi Bob, are you sure that cam sensor is in right? Steve, "You Thee Man"    Trust me, God has a special place for you.       

[Steve Wood]

I hope so!  It takes forever to figure something out long distance sometimes.  I had one guy that was setting the cam sensor on #2 tdc..guess he was a ford guy

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Hey Steve, got that new gauge and put it on the fuel rail.  Here are the results:  The gauge went to 80 when the key was turned on and the fuel pump built up pressure.  When the pump went off, the pressure went down to 43psi.  When I started it, the pressure went up to 100psi.  The car was able to run for about 5 seconds before dying. 

What is different is that the car didn't sound like it had a miss.  It didn't smell like it was flooding out either and there is no black smoke coming out the tail end. 

I'm not sure if the double pumper could be isolated to just one pump.  It's a Racetronix G7 double pump system.  There is a hot wire kit, but it also connects to the stock connector.  I'll take a look online. 

[Just a Six?]

If you have the Racetronix DP Harness you can change the wires easily for which pump is the primary & which comes on at xxlbs boost. My Hobbs switch is set for 15lbs on 2nd pump. I have one of the first 5 made & they are all non adjustable with Hobbs switch.

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Hey Will, good to "see" you.  I'm pretty sure that the sensor is good.  I do believe that I have another one.  I do have one question for you though Will; did you get a balencer from TA Performance?  If so, is the second tic mark the 25* ATDC?  I ask that because the marker that came with the cam sensor tool doesn't line up with the tick mark on the balencer.  I used the marker that came with the cam sensor tool as my 25* ATDC mark BTW. 

You mention the Hobbs switch.  Well, I don't know if my pump came with that Hobbs switch as I had gotten it from Gbodyparts.  I did get the hot wire kit though.  Is it an electrical switch? An add on?  Light bulb!! Please tell me more about that Hobbs switch and where it is located.  A pic would help a lot.  I think that's the problem.

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Hey all, well this is embarrassing.  Yeah, looking through my work bench, I found the Hobbs switch that I neglected to install. 

Can someone please steer me to some instructions on how to install it?

I apologize for wasting your all's time.  I do thank you all for helping me as much as you have.