Won't Start

[Bob-Lob-Law]

A bad cell.  Well, that sure sounds a lot better than a bad starter.  Funny, I just bought that a couple of months ago.  I'll get that returned this week. 

[Steve Wood]

they can load test it...sounds like it breaks down when a load is put on it...hence the big drops when the door is opened or the starter activated

[Steve Wood]

as far as the not wanting to run at idle, be sure there is not leak around the base of the egr valve or the block off plate if that is what you are using

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Roger that, I'm using the Champion Intake, so there isn't an EGR on it.  I also have the vac line blocked off.

[Steve Wood]

sounds like an air leak some place to me

[Steve Wood]

or you have a plug wire switched, injector harness switched, or the cam sensor in backwards   LOL

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Hey Steve,  just wanted to give you an update.  Sorry for taking so long, taking care of the wife doesn't leave me much time to work on the car.

Anyways, I have adjusted the fuel pressure and have it at 42 lbs.  I have checked all plug wires and have made sure that they are all tight and working.  The coil pack is new and working.  The crank sensor is sitting correctly.  Battery is good now.  It will start, but stumble and die after a few seconds.

You last stated that you feel it's an air leak, so my next priority will be to block off all the unneeded vac lines like the cruise and HVAC to see if that makes a difference.  I will also look at the injector harness since that is the only wiring that isn't new.  I might just go ahead and replace it. 

Thanks for your help.  I'll let you know what happens when I am able to complete these tasks.   

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Steve,  I was able to work on the car a bit this evening.  I plugged the vac lines for the HVAC, Cruise Control and the PCV.  I attempted to start the car and while it fired right up, it would run very rough for about 10 seconds and then die.  This is actually the best it has run so far. 

So, could the vac block be the next item to turn to, or something bigger? 

I appreciate all your help.

[Steve Wood]

bob, it seems to me that it would take a massive air leak to do what you are describing....

Is it showing the correct fuel pressure when you crank it?

Be sure the maf pipe is tight on the turbo and the same with the other pipes to and from the turbo, intercooler and throttlebody are all tight

[Steve Wood]

also, does the check engine lite come on when you turn the key on...burning brightly and steadily, and go off when it starts?

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Steve, as far as the fuel pressure, when I turn on the key, the gauge pegs around max but bounces around as well when the fuel pump turns on.  When it turns off, it goes down to 42 psi.  When I am cranking it, it does the same thing, pegs out at maximum as well as bounces around a good bit.

Could the fuel pressure regulator be bad?  Is there a way to check it to make sure it's good? 

The engine light does what you asked, turn on when the ignition is turned on and it goes off when the car starts.  I'll see if there are any codes stored.  I do have a scanmaster.

Will the scanmaster store the codes so I can record them?  If so, I'll try to get them for you this evening.

One other thing, when the car was idling, I tried to press the gas to get it to rev a bit, however, it immediately died.  Any time I tried that when it was running during the 5 to 10 seconds it was running, it died. 

Thanks for your support. 

[Steve Wood]

The scanmaster will store recent codes.  Sounds like there are none but it won't hurt to check to be sure.

Something is up with that fuel pressure gauge or the regulator, it would seem.  Is that an electric or mechanical gauge?  Pressure should be steady while cranking and drop slightly when it starts.

Do you get black smoke out the tail pipes when you start it?  Pull a plug and see if it is nice and dry as it should be and not wet or excessively black.

You can take the top off the regulator and check to see if there are any holes in the diaphram plus make sure there is no crud in the regulator that might cause it not to work right.  If you have another gauge, you can swap it in to be sure it is not the problem.

[Steve Wood]

this is basically all there is inside the regulator

http://www.accufabracing.com/index.php?option=com_redshop&view=product&pid=71&Itemid=7

take the diaphram out and check for debris

[Bob-Lob-Law]

Steve, I was finally able to get the tamper resistant torx sockets needed to take apart my regulator.  There was no debris and the diaphram seemed in good working condition with no cracks or holes.  One thing to note, the end of the spring that rested on the diaphram was very worn and a bit lopsided, however there were absolutely no shavings at all.  I have had this regulator for many years and I don't even remember where I obtained it from.  I might still have a stock regulator somewhere. 

As for the black smoke, I get some black smoke but not a lot from what I can tell.  It does smell very rich though.  The plugs are still getting fouled.  There is a good bit of black soot on them. 

The gauge is a mechanical one.  I have used it quite a bit and have never had any problems with it. 

Thanks again for all your help.   

[Steve Wood]

if the plugs are black, something is wrong.

If the fuel pressure is really doing what you say, that will do it and flooding will kill the engine.

If the cam sensor is 180 out, that might do it as well

If the maf is not reading 4-6 when you start it, but is reading higher, that can make it run rich very badly, too.


Sounds like rather than a big air leak, it is getting too much fuel.  Got anyone you can borrow a different gauge from?