New GN owner questions/issues

[earlbrown]

Ok i guess trying to do a burn out with it as soon as i got it is abuse.....

Burnouts are fine. There's not much you can do in life (with your pants on) more enjoyable than a burnout.


If you're driving the car with antifreeze in the oil, leaky head gaskets, wiping cam lobe and/or boost control issues...   then that's abuse.

You need to get any electronics you have installed pronto...   and from your opening posts I'd seriously do every diagnostic that can be done on the long block. Most importantly, a leak down test, compression test, and figure out what the oil pressure is doing.
    If that can be taken care of with out pulling the engine, there's a laundry list of preventative maintenance that will need to be installed.

I hate to sound like a Debbie Downer but these cars like to make new owners jump through SHITLOADS of hoops before they stop acting like jerks. After that, they're kinda fun to drive.

[Super Gnat]

I believe you need both as Scanmaster provides constant monitoring of the O2s and timing retard...of course, if it is in the trunk you should have saved your money.

as it turns out it was a scan tool.... i was confused. still learning but i think im making some progress. i took the radiator out and had it flushed today, it was pretty filthy.  i picked up a fuel pressure gauge and put on an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. set it to 45psi then put the line back on and watched the psi drop by like 8.


couldnt resist, i took it for a spin. previously when cruising at 30 mph and then going WOT, it would bog bad and not rev, thats no longer happening. the turbo spooled fast and held at 15 psi until i let off around 80mph. is it possible that my stock fuel pressure regulator couldnt keep up with the larger injectors, bigger fuel pump, and hot wire kit, and thats what was causing some of my symptoms. now i have to get rid of this old ATR chip.




still cant do a burn out or build boost at the line. TT chips and scanmaster will be here thursday.


 

[Super Gnat]

Ok i guess trying to do a burn out with it as soon as i got it is abuse.....

Burnouts are fine. There's not much you can do in life (with your pants on) more enjoyable than a burnout.


If you're driving the car with antifreeze in the oil, leaky head gaskets, wiping cam lobe and/or boost control issues...   then that's abuse.

You need to get any electronics you have installed pronto...   and from your opening posts I'd seriously do every diagnostic that can be done on the long block. Most importantly, a leak down test, compression test, and figure out what the oil pressure is doing.
    If that can be taken care of with out pulling the engine, there's a laundry list of preventative maintenance that will need to be installed.

I hate to sound like a Debbie Downer but these cars like to make new owners jump through SHITLOADS of hoops before they stop acting like jerks. After that, they're kinda fun to drive.

   there is light at the end of the tunnel. ill get there eventually.

[Super Gnat]

Am i missing something..... ive been reading a bunch of posts talking about how these cars launch best around 4 or 5 psi.


Do i need something special to build boost at the line? I cant just hold the brakes and give it some throttle?


Can anyone point me to some good reading material or tell me how its accomplished.. .. Could be my tired motor or crappy chip?


and yes i feel dumb for asking 

thanks

[1KWIKSIX]

"still cant do a burn out or build boost at the line. TT chips and scanmaster will be here thursday".
 
May want to have someone knowledgable pull your tranny inspection cover and have a look at your torque convertor to verify what you have installed.  FYI, the stock factory torque convertors will have D5 stamped all around the circumference of the torque convertor. These stalled out at around 2,000 - 2,200rpm.
 
I only say this cause I always had problems doing burnouts with my car too and spool up was on the slow side of lazy. Last winter when I was installing a new oil pan and gskt + installing a new rear main seal....I had a close look at my torque convertor....to my surprise it did not say anything on the outside.....it would appear that one of the previous owners must have installed a 200R-4 convertor out of a NA car.
 
This explains why I couldn't do a burn out very well and the slow spool up. The NA convertors stall at around 1,600rpm which is what I was finding.
 
Not sure if this could be your problem , but have someone check to verify before you end up pulling all your hair out.
 
Just sayin!

[Super Gnat]

This explains why I couldn't do a burn out very well and the slow spool up. The NA convertors stall at around 1,600rpm which is what I was finding.
 

Yes that is exactly the rpm that it lets me rev to and then nothing... I think you may be right. Thanks for the lead, i will look into it.


I called the previous owner and he never changed it. To his knowledge it is stock, but he didnt own it until 1990 so....

[Super Gnat]

Car passed CA smog with the TT classic chip installed. It feels like its running better.


I think ill have time tomorrow to install the scanmaster and see what that tells me.

[Super Gnat]

Scanmaster numbers at idle after warming up


02 milivolts - 007 to 720   
AF - 04
L8 - 34
Bat - 13.8
Int. - 128
BL - 131
CLt - 170
Ats - 87
R - 775
Tps - .42
Iac - 09
cc - 05 to 250
mal - 00


Saw the knock hit 4.7 when under boost.

Any thoughts?

[phil_long]

And these numbers plus the KR is with the TT chip installed?

[Super Gnat]

And these numbers plus the KR is with the TT chip installed?

Correct

[phil_long]

i didnt see in your post, but do you have a stock fuel pump?  Is your FP rising with boost as it should?  What did the O2's show during your run? 

[phil_long]

nevermind.  i overlooked the fact that you do have an aftermarket FP with a hotwire kit.  Just need to know the O2 count at WOT.  It'll tell whether the car is running lean or rich, and if either, that could potentially explain the KR.  Im seeing KR too, and im still tracking it

[earlbrown]

nevermind.  i overlooked the fact that you do have an aftermarket FP with a hotwire kit. 

Actually you were thinking correctly the first time, Phil. "New parts" don't automatically equal "working parts".   Especially in this day and age with crappy QC and chinese knockoffs.

Always verify things are doing what they're supposed to be doing. (X100 on these finicky ass cars!)