Gonna try a diy overhaul, or two

[TexasT]

http://www.gnttype.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9724

Yep, Jake is a good guy. He "got into it" with some of them z28 guys, as out lined in the linked thread. He stopped doing 2004r  but now his web site has them again. I think he stopped selling parts to the public. Probably not enough money in it and he is busy building 4L80e units that have better margin, but who knows.

Either way, I still think if you have a place to drop the trans, a clean work area for dis assembly and assembly and hand tools your can overhaul a 2004r.

You will need a dial indicator and a way to mount it to check clearances. it is much easier with a low/reverse removal/install tool, that can be had off ebay if you keep your eye on it(look for a principles of operation manual while you are hunting). I have a 12 ton press, you might want to invest in one or rig something up with some allthread, washers n nuts or get a clutch compressor tool of some kind. An output shaft support was accomplished with the ds yoke and some wire on mine.

If you are heading as deep as the rev I would plan on a full over haul. This might require some bushing drivers but I used sockets and pieces of pipe and stuff I have collected through the years pressing things in and out.

Let us know if you have questions. Happy to help.

[gusszgs]

I think I'm going to give it a shot Rich. I picked up a BRF from a good guy up here. It needs a rebuild for sure, but it's a good stock BRF core. Just pulled the pan this morning and checking what I can visually. Looks ok, BR3 painted on the VB 694 servo ect. Would like to build this to a good comp trans. I have Chris's billet servo, and his competition shift kit. I picked up his rebuild manual last year thinking I may do this. Do you think I can can get by with just his manual? Haven't decided on LU or NLU yet but probably go NLU. No other hard parts yet.
I have lots of tools but I don't have the "specialty" tools you mention, so I'll either buy or borrow in times of need. One thing I did notice this morning is when I try to turn the pump stator spline with the trans on the engine stand it won't budge, but the smaller input shaft will turn freely. Is this normal do you know? I would have thought it would turn freely as well. Hope I'm calling these parts by their correct name 


Oh, and thanks for the link to Jake 

[Scoobum]

Jim, Princess Auto may have some or all of the tools Rich has mentioned. I picked up a magnetic dial indicator real cheap from them...and their catalogue is online.

[gusszgs]

Cool Brad, thanks. I bought my line pressure gauge from them. They were decent and made it up for me on the spot.

[TexasT]

Stator support dose not move. It is bolted to the inside of the pump and holds the stator in the torque converter stationary so the stator can direct the fluid around.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5G2zQ_3xTc






http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/transmission/32608-200-4r-tips-tricks-saved-tools-i-learned.html

Ive heard of others using #10 wire with an L bent in the end to get the low/rev out.

http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/topic3814.html

http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=4631.0

[gusszgs]

OK I see, thanks Rich. I'm pretty green but not retarded, but don't ask my wife.    So I'll be taking this real slow.

[TexasT]

you can see the stator support on the rear of the pump held by the three button head fasteners. ck recommended replacing these with regular bolts and lock tighting them in.

[TexasT]

No silly questions. If you know you wouldn't ask.

Remember these threads are what one person does, just like the ck manual is one mans opinions. No one way to get it done. Lots of directions you could go.

[gusszgs]

Ok Rich thanks for your help.
I've removed the LU solenoid and wiring, 1-2 accumulator housing, piston and spring. Removed governor, VB and check balls (11) Not sure if 11 is what I should have but that's all I see for now. Haven't removed the center support bolts or the servo yet. Starting to get a little overwhelmed with the VB check balls and their location. I took pics but kinda hard to see where they were as some were still submerged in fluid.


Anyway all looks ok so far no missing parts or bolts, and the accumulator springs are in good shape. The plate had very little wear on it, can barley catch a finger nail on the worn area. Only issue so far is the 3-4 accumulator piston in the case seems like it's seized in there as it doesn't seem to want to depart from home. 

[TexasT]

Ok Rich thanks for your help.
I've removed the LU solenoid and wiring, 1-2 accumulator housing, piston and spring. Removed governor, VB and check balls (11) Not sure if 11 is what I should have but that's all I see for now. Haven't removed the center support bolts or the servo yet. Starting to get a little overwhelmed with the VB check balls and their location. I took pics but kinda hard to see where they were as some were still submerged in fluid.


Anyway all looks ok so far no missing parts or bolts, and the accumulator springs are in good shape. The plate had very little wear on it, can barley catch a finger nail on the worn area. Only issue so far is the 3-4 accumulator piston in the case seems like it's seized in there as it doesn't seem to want to depart from home. 

Don't worry about the ball locations for now. Plenty of pix and diagrams to get them back where they belong.

Set your torque converter on the bench and stack the pieces on it as you take it apart.

Ill have to look but I'm sure you can use some compressed air to "shoot" it out.

[gusszgs]

Will try to get some pics up

[gusszgs]

I got 3 ckeck balls out of the VB itself and 8 out of the case. I guess there's one deep in the case that's in a capsule Does that one need to come out?

[TexasT]

I didnt pull any of the capsuled stuff. I doused it down with brake cleaner and dried it with compressed air and oiled it to keep it moving in the mean time.

If you feel the need to remove them the grumpys perfomance link has some pix on how he did it.

[gusszgs]

If it's not necessary to remove I won't bother. I got the 3-4 accumulator piston out, just a little tap got it moving.


Rich did you get your case hot tanked?

[TexasT]

I was gonna and even found a shop that said he'd run it through for $25. But I just ended up buying a couple cans of brake cleaner and did it myself instead. I'm more of a "how fast will it run" than a "how nice can it look" kinda guy.