Well I'm still at it...
I got the innards back into the case. Measured the play on the sections. Did some dis-assembly, changed the selectives and reassembled to heck play again. Took a few tries but I was satisfied, this seems to be where the run of the mill rebuild differs. Just slappin it back together generally results in getting to do another overhaul in short order. I didnt want to so I am taking my time.
This is my low buck output shaft fixture. Not pretty but it got me where I wanted to go since the piece I bought didn't work out.
I have been reading up on shift improvement kit. There are apparently many schools of thought on what to do to make the shifts. I downloaded the instructions for the B&M kit, and the transgo kit, and obtained a copy of the ck performance kit as well as having a copy of the "bible" of 2004r assemble from ck performance. I also read up on different thoughts on the valve body subject over at hotrodders.com and turbobuick.com in the transmission section.
I kept it conservative in the drilling out of holes in the valve body plate. Since I am using an AA code valve body I wasn't sure how it will react to the modifications. According to the manual the AA code from a Cadillac has the lowest line pressures stock, so just by my use of the larger boost valves and pressure springs it should wake it up. We will see.
I got some different springs for the 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators. We are using a sonnax 2nd gear servo so this includes the 2-3 accumulator. I decided to keep the accumulators functional though blocking them can firm up shifts. This might need to be done if using a loose torque converter. I would have liked to put in a different valve body plate as this one is worn but budgetary constraints didn't allow it at this time. Maybe we will have one when I drop the pan for a fluid change and governor adjustment. I ordered a small scale and I guess they are waiting on the container as it said on amazon that it would be 17-29 days.
As you can see the cover on the right has a larger area than the stocker on the left.
And of course the piston is larger too.
When installing this with the new carbon band it required a bit of modification to the pin length to get it where we were told we would need it. This affects the 1-2 shift. Too much clearance and the band doesn't grab and you get a mushy shift. Too little clearance and the band burns and probably ruins the drum too.
We assembled it up with the band, and anchor pin in the case but without and of the seals. Then we measured the clearance between the piston and the snap in retainer ring. If you cant get the ring in you don't have enough clearance. You can grind the pin, and try it again. Too much clearance and you can hit the tip with the wire feed welder to build it up and snug up the clearance. Once you get the clearance you want you can Put the seals and springs in and put it all together. Then we used a yoke on the output shaft to turn the output. Then by applying air pressure to the exhaust hole in the pan rail it should lock down the output and you wont be able to turn it.
i was advised to get the spring up and out of the hole a bit(1/4") so we dropped a nut on the shaft and this was the result. We used a white spring sourced for a 700r4 to replace the broken stock one.
Here are the instructions I got for the 2-3 shift mod. I didnt do it but will if I feel the 2-3 shift isn't where I want it to be.
These are the pieces of the TV valve. When I assembled it with the stock springs it seemed "sluggish" so I sourced some stiffer springs in hopes it will work well. I cut one of the larger ones on advice posted by Lonnie Diers of ExtremeAutomat ics.com that he uses a 2.1" spring. I also put a stiffer spring in the deep end of the valve as that plunger didnt seem to return to it position with authority when released. With the new springs I felt the valve worked much better when run through its stroke.
we torqued the overhauled vb on there along with the accumulators.
We took apart the governor. Did some mods. We'll see how they work and mod some more.
The 700r4 bottom feeding filter is metal so apparently it has a tendency to short out the vb pressure switch. I shrink wrapped the connector to try to avoid that happening. We also modified that black clip to try to limit the filter movement.
I have been reading up on tractor hydraulic oil. Lots of opinions. Id love to hear yours good or bad. Dex VI seems to be a favorite, but if I could afford that I wouldn't be overhauling my own trans now would I.
Again, I'm no expert but welcome any and all questions and comments.
And here's to a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.
