Blue Loctite

[smokin-6]

My newly purchased "Turbo Saver" is leaking oil at the fitting that screws into the adapter on the engine (not the black hose to the fitting). I only have about 20 miles on it. I first tried to tighten it some more and it was very hard to turn, I thought it felt like it stripped. So I took it off the car (PITA, oil dripping all down my arm and a bitch to get to the hose end up on the core support). I cleaned off all their white goop and did not see any fragments of threads. It only turns in about 2-3 turns then gets hard to turn, I am assuming its pipe thread. I called Precision and I wanted to send it back and have them send me another. But the Tech says " I have never seen them strip before and I should not use liquid Teflon" He said to use blue loctite.

Has anyone use this for sealing? He claims this will fix my issue. I don't want to put it on, have it leak and have to take it off again.
In the picture it is the 4 o'clock end not the 10 o'clock (Tapered) end. Thanks for your help

[Steve Wood]

I have never had a problem with teflon...if you are careful, you can use teflon tape...just don't wrap it down around the end so it can tear and go into the oil stream.

I never used locktite, but, it will probably work..particul arly if you take some carb clean and spray the female threads to get oil off.

[SuperSix]

I've never used Loctite threadlocker as a sealer.

[Scott87]

I am a little leary on using loctite on aluminum since it attacks certain aluminum alloys. (experience dealing with north star head studs and loctite tearing the threads out of the block)

  It is probably ok to use since the vendor suggested it.  Honestly I would continue with the Teflon sealant being careful to stay away from the first couple of threads so as to not contaminate the oil.

If you have some torn threads you can take some fine cotton string wrapped single strand into the Valley of the threads in conjunction with the thread sealant.  The thread expands helping seal. 

This works on water leaks cannot see why it wouldn't work for oil.  Granted it is only a bandaid. 

If threads are torn / stretched the best fix is weld,  drill, and re-tap..

Good luck on fixing the leak.





Posted From Tapatalk

[Scott87]

Another alternative to torn threads would be to drill and tap the next size up and reduce via bushings.

Posted From Tapatalk

[$1987 GN$]

I have used Blue and Purple as sealants.
If you decide yo use the Loctite.
Make sure you have the correct blue as there are a number of different break points also if you need primmer with it.


AJ___

[motorhead]

NX supplies a red thread sealant in its nitrous kits.

[Steve Wood]

if you use a liquid sealer, let it sit over night before cranking it up-I have found that to help on some things

[84 BuickGNYorkPA]

Hmmm, 2-3 turns and it gets tight, if you have a pipe tap, I would run it in until it gets tight, don't get crazy and cut threads, just run it in to make sure threads are clean. Then try your male adapter again with out any sealant, does it go in further? I would not use thread locker for a sealant, just the tried and true white thread tape, wrap it clockwise if the male fitting opening is pointed toward you, 2-3 wraps should do it. The NPT thread is designed to not leak, in the field if a pipe tap thread is leaking, it's not tight enough.... of course there is the tick, tick, boom/break to think about if it's over tightened.


Chuck

[Steve Wood]

I guess the main point is that it only goes a couple of threads or so...and I would think it would go at least half way...so running a tap into it sounds like the best idea yet to me

[$1987 GN$]

If you think the threads are damaged; do NOT use a tap.
Please use a thread chaser to do it correctly.

Make sure you clean the material out also as that will cause you more grief.

AJ___

[smokin-6]

I will inspect it again tonight when I get off work. I will see how far I can screw it in further without really killing it.  I want to be sure it is in enough so it doesn't pop out and blow my new engine

I have read that blue loctite 243 is  Oil Resistant Threadlocker, the 242 stuff is not. But everyone is leaning towards the liquid teflon (or tape).

[ULYCYC]

Those fittings can go in dry without leaking. Trying to bandaid it with sealers shows you have a thread problem that needs to be fixed with a tap and or new fitting. I ran across a lot of those fittings that look cool but are cheap knockoffs from china. If the threads all look good try and buy a Earls, Aeroquip, Russell or XRP brand fitting. It will seal better and a dab liquid teflon to lube the threads.

[$1987 GN$]

Those fittings can go in dry without leaking. Trying to bandaid it with sealers shows you have a thread problem that needs to be fixed with a tap and or new fitting. I ran across a lot of those fittings that look cool but are cheap knockoffs from china. If the threads all look good try and buy a Earls, Aeroquip, Russell or XRP brand fitting. It will seal better and a dab liquid teflon to lube the threads.

Did not realize it was a china setup.
You are probably right on the money Ed, they do not understand 1.5 X

AJ___

[84 BuickGNYorkPA]

Teach me about thread chasers, after 35yrs in the machine shop, I'm never to old to learn.... at work we re-hand tap all threaded holes before we start any assembly on rehab jobs.


Chuck