How to fix the sagging panels that is located under the dash

[gnonyx]

For many years of no support, the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel gave it that bow sagging ugly look.
I used a flat steel bar, drilled both ends for existing panel support screws , hole saw for interior light, and then riveted the flat bar to the panel.

[daveismissing]

Good stuff!

[Scott87]

I like it, I need to do this myself..  How thick was the flat stock?  Looks like 8th inch from the photo.

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[SuperSix]

Great idea! I think you can get some aluminum bar stock at Home Depot.

[Just a Six?]

Great idea! I think you can get some aluminum bar stock at Home Depot.

Yup! I needed a few inches to make my double pumper hangar & had to buy a 3' length. I still have a good 30" left over so I'll add it to the list.

[gnonyx]

I like it, I need to do this myself..  How thick was the flat stock?  Looks like 8th inch from the photo.

Posted From Tapatalk

I got the 1/8" flat steel bar from home depot, and I did checked out the aluminum flat bar, but it flexed more than steel. If you decided to do this keep in mind to file or grind down both rivet ends close to the existing panel support screws or it will hit the screw bracket.

[GNRick]

I just did mine with the 1/8th inch aluminum stock. It already had holes in it so I just used little screws/washers/nuts instead of rivets. One odd thing though. The factory holes in the panel are spaced too far apart so when you install the panel without the metal stock it causes it to scrunch up and sag. Now with the metal stock you are forced to space the holes 16 in. apart. This requires drilling a new hole. Well, my drill bit wouldn't go thru the aluminum stock so I used my sawzall with a metal blade to just connect the holes on one end, into one long hole. Results were pretty good. Would be nice if someone would start making the panel again out of fiberglass.

[Top Speed]

I need to do the same thing.  There are so many wires under mine it looks like it wants to explode!

[SuperSix]

I just did mine with the 1/8th inch aluminum stock. It already had holes in it so I just used little screws/washers/nuts instead of rivets. One odd thing though. The factory holes in the panel are spaced too far apart so when you install the panel without the metal stock it causes it to scrunch up and sag. Now with the metal stock you are forced to space the holes 16 in. apart. This requires drilling a new hole. Well, my drill bit wouldn't go thru the aluminum stock so I used my sawzall with a metal blade to just connect the holes on one end, into one long hole. Results were pretty good. Would be nice if someone would start making the panel again out of fiberglass.

You seriously need a new drill bit. :p

[GNRick]

I think you're right.

[daveismissing]

The lost art of sharpening drill bits

[gnonyx]

The lost art of sharpening drill bits

This is why someone created this Drill Bit Sharper Powered by your hand Drill machine. So people like me who can't see  the fine point; run few seconds and guess you're done sharpening the bit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drill-Bit-Sharpener-Powered-by-Your-Drill-/330680802011?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cfe1c9adb
Don't know if this concept works or not, but it looks good

[daveismissing]

Doesn't look like that device relieves behind the cutting edge properly, needs a cam/ motion
more like the drill doctor et al.

[gnonyx]

Doesn't look like that device relieves behind the cutting edge properly, needs a cam/ motion
more like the drill doctor et al.

I do agree with you and EBay has this Drill Doctor at a cheap price of less than $55.00 compare to over $100.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DRILL-DOCTOR-DD350X-Drill-Bit-Sharpener-118-Deg-/321080538122?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac1e4340a

[motorhead]

I am still trying to figure out how to properly use my Drill Doctor.