Pending....

[phil_long]

better view of pulley

[gbsean]

that plate should unbolt...thats what was holding the intercooler fan ....the Crank bolt is behind that...

[phil_long]

thats wat i was thinking.  Any clue on how efficient that fan is? 

[Steve Wood]

Most of the fans have broken blades by now and have been removed....but, once the bolts are out, I would suspect rust is holding it to the pulley

As there was no shroud, I kinda doubt they were very efficient

[phil_long]

ok.thanks

[phil_long]

Got the compression tester, and im only pulling the number one plug.  What should the gauge read while turning over?  Thanks

[Steve Wood]

follow my instructions and remember to hold the pedal on the floor...discon nect the orange wire or the cam sensor so it won't try to start...or leave the cam sensor cap off

Crank the engine until the needle stops rising...this will take a few seconds of cranking

An engine in good condition will make 145 psi or so

Let us know what yours reads

[phil_long]

Thanks Steve

[phil_long]

and i leave the other plugs in? initially you said to remove them all.  But now im just taking the number one out?  sorry for sounding slow.  I actually am slow and a bit annoyed.

[phil_long]

and i meant to ask what all it took to remove that oil adapter plate for the oil cooler?

[phil_long]

nevermind. think i found it on vortex.  i didnt see a way to loop the hoses which is why i asked.  I would prefer to loop the hoses  because i think it would be easier.

[Steve Wood]

 said one plug because I thought it was easier and good enough for this purpose

[phil_long]

said one plug because I thought it was easier and good enough for this purpose

cool

[earlbrown]

....but when running a compression test the correct way, you remove all the spark plugs, take the readings, and write them down with a mileage notation.

Might save a lot of time with future troubleshootin g.



(plus the engine spins over better with no plugs in place)

[phil_long]

ok. that makes sense. thanks earl