My new (to me) 1986 White T-Type

[gordyzx9r]

Well, since the GN is getting repaired (again) I have some time to fiddle with the T.  Got it insured, titled, and registered today, finally.  I was surprised that the insurance agency called it a "classic", they were kinda shocked at the values for low/mid/high ($6600/$10000/$20000 respectively).  I have Grundy agreed collector's insurance on the GN but I think for now I'll just keep USAA full coverage on the T.

Drove it around for a bit.  Does not like to stay running while idling when it first gets cranked up, had to feather the throttle to keep it going.  Even after awhile it still sounds like it wants to stall. 

Need to work on the idle.  Earlier someone mentioned cleaning out the IAC passages.  Do I just remove the IAC and use an electrical contact cleaner?

I need to change the oil/filter since it's been sitting for well over a year.

Check out the plugs and change them if necessary.

The brake light comes on intermittently, I'm hoping it's just the accumulator ball.  I have a few of those and a brake switch sitting around here somewhere.  I guess I should bleed the system too. 

The fuel gauge is inoperative.  He had the fuel sending unit and hangar replaced at SE Turbo (well, at least they said they did).  Is there anyway to test that system before having to go right to the sending unit?  I filled it with gas and will have to guestimate until I get that fixed.

The pyrometer is funky, it jumps all over the place.  Then, after a while it will stick at a TGT when you give it throttle and hold there until you give it throttle again. 

Scanmaster shows no KR, no MAL code, and everything else seems alright.

The SLIC is missing a mounting bolt to hold it to the support bracket. 

The alcohol tank was empty, so I filled it up but I have no clue if it's working correctly or not yet. 

I need to take out the ECM and look at the chip.

[Steve Wood]

Remove the iac. Spray it off with brake/carb clean.  Spray the cleaner into the iac passage in the throttlebody thru the iac opening and thru the passages in the throttlebody.. .see first pic  http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/throttle_body.htm    get the black crud out if present

check ALL (including the small hard plastic lines) the vacuum hoses for leaks as well as clean out the pcv...Make sure the plunger is free to move when you shake the pcv,  Put tie wraps on all the lines at the vacuum lines at the vacuum block, etc to keep them from blowing off under boost.

make sure there is no leak(s) between maf and turbo.

Make sure there is no leak around the base of the plenum.

Crank the car up, let it warm up while watching the iac's in park...AC off....numbers should start fairly high and come down to 10-30 as the engine warms up.  Adjust as required.

Check the engine vacuum when warm and in Park...should be around 17+ on stock cam and very steady...if the cam is not stock, it could be down around 14 or so...still pretty steady

If the car feels like it has a miss, remove one injector connector at a time and see if the rpm drops a bit, or misses more, each time one is removed.  Note any cylinders that don't drop or cause a miss

[SuperSix]

Remove the iac. Spray it off with brake/carb clean.  Spray the cleaner into the iac passage in the throttlebody thru the iac opening and thru the passages in the throttlebody.. .see first pic  http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/throttle_body.htm    get the black crud out if present

check ALL (including the small hard plastic lines) the vacuum hoses for leaks as well as clean out the pcv...Make sure the plunger is free to move when you shake the pcv,  Put tie wraps on all the lines at the vacuum lines at the vacuum block, etc to keep them from blowing off under boost.

make sure there is no leak(s) between maf and turbo.

Make sure there is no leak around the base of the plenum.

Crank the car up, let it warm up while watching the iac's in park...AC off....numbers should start fairly high and come down to 10-30 as the engine warms up.  Adjust as required.

Check the engine vacuum when warm and in Park...should be around 17+ on stock cam and very steady...if the cam is not stock, it could be down around 14 or so...still pretty steady

If the car feels like it has a miss, remove one injector connector at a time and see if the rpm drops a bit, or misses more, each time one is removed.  Note any cylinders that don't drop or cause a miss

This should be a default reply for all related posts.

Great work, Steve. That covers the very basic preparatory diagnosis.

[gordyzx9r]

Dropped it off at transmission shop to fix all the damn leaks...car is running much better.

[stevemon]

Where's the Like button on here?

[Steve Wood]

I always love it when people post that their car is not running right; then post later that it is running better and don't bother what they found wrong!

[gordyzx9r]

I always love it when people post that their car is not running right; then post later that it is running better and don't bother what they found wrong!

Well...honestl y, I did nothing.  I filled it with fresh gas and drove it a few times.  Starts up and idles fine now...but yes, I need to do a spring cleaning on it and start working the bugs out.  But it was pouring transmission fluid out, I got a cup overnight.  One of the transmission lines to the cooler was ran in an odd way and was rubbing to the point where it had gotten a hole in it.  So it got all new lines, a new aluminum radiator, and the transmission serviced.

I swear, when I get it back...I'll change the oil and filter, check the plugs, do some spring cleaning, etc. 

But hey, the power antenna works...that shocked the hell out of me.

[Steve Wood]

Nice when they run right and you can begin to enjoy driving them

[gordyzx9r]

Nice when they run right and you can begin to enjoy driving them

This thing's a warhorse, just fun to drive and not being afraid to get fingerprints on it or park it next to someone else.  It runs really well, though I haven't gotten on it at all because the alcohol isn't working, I hope to fix that this weekend.  The transmission guy looked over the transmission and said it's been gone through and looks to have been rebuilt recently.  I'm just thrilled it's not leaking...ther e was a bad fitting some splits in lines that were rubbing on the frame.     

[Steve Wood]

That is the way they are supposed to be....made to be driven, not adored.

[alradco]

Little late to the party but great looking T. At some point I have to get a white T to park next to the GN.